Clutch issues. Insight please!
04-26-2009, 03:51 PM
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Clutch issues. Insight please! I've got a problem, which is half figured out. Heh
First off, I did a clutch swap in August, SPEC 2 kit with a new GM flywheel, the setup has around 7k miles on it now.
I was driving down the road last week when I lost all pedal in my clutch, and my gears were locked out, and there were some vibrations/rubbing coming from the pressure plate/disc/flywheel area. Had the car towed home..
Dropped the transmission today and found that the TO bearing I got from SPEC was shot, so I threw in a new GM #11 slave, spring & TO bearing. I figured what the heck, this must be the problem right?
Well I just started the damn thing up and I've got the pedal back, it goes in to gear and will move around, but there are some bad vibration/rubbing sounds coming from in the bell housing still.
I'm trying to figure out if the pressure plate or something was damaged when the TO bearing went, or has the master cylinder **** the bed as well?
Any ideas?
First off, I did a clutch swap in August, SPEC 2 kit with a new GM flywheel, the setup has around 7k miles on it now.
I was driving down the road last week when I lost all pedal in my clutch, and my gears were locked out, and there were some vibrations/rubbing coming from the pressure plate/disc/flywheel area. Had the car towed home..
Dropped the transmission today and found that the TO bearing I got from SPEC was shot, so I threw in a new GM #11 slave, spring & TO bearing. I figured what the heck, this must be the problem right?
Well I just started the damn thing up and I've got the pedal back, it goes in to gear and will move around, but there are some bad vibration/rubbing sounds coming from in the bell housing still.
I'm trying to figure out if the pressure plate or something was damaged when the TO bearing went, or has the master cylinder **** the bed as well?
Any ideas?
04-26-2009, 04:12 PM
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I've got a problem, which is half figured out. Heh
First off, I did a clutch swap in August, SPEC 2 kit with a new GM flywheel, the setup has around 7k miles on it now.
I was driving down the road last week when I lost all pedal in my clutch, and my gears were locked out, and there were some vibrations/rubbing coming from the pressure plate/disc/flywheel area. Had the car towed home..
Dropped the transmission today and found that the TO bearing I got from SPEC was shot, so I threw in a new GM #11 slave, spring & TO bearing. I figured what the heck, this must be the problem right?
Well I just started the damn thing up and I've got the pedal back, it goes in to gear and will move around, but there are some bad vibration/rubbing sounds coming from in the bell housing still.
I'm trying to figure out if the pressure plate or something was damaged when the TO bearing went, or has the master cylinder **** the bed as well?
Any ideas?
First off, I did a clutch swap in August, SPEC 2 kit with a new GM flywheel, the setup has around 7k miles on it now.
I was driving down the road last week when I lost all pedal in my clutch, and my gears were locked out, and there were some vibrations/rubbing coming from the pressure plate/disc/flywheel area. Had the car towed home..
Dropped the transmission today and found that the TO bearing I got from SPEC was shot, so I threw in a new GM #11 slave, spring & TO bearing. I figured what the heck, this must be the problem right?
Well I just started the damn thing up and I've got the pedal back, it goes in to gear and will move around, but there are some bad vibration/rubbing sounds coming from in the bell housing still.
I'm trying to figure out if the pressure plate or something was damaged when the TO bearing went, or has the master cylinder **** the bed as well?
Any ideas?
Here is a post similar to yours that I responded too.
Spec01 (sponser) is on this forum alot during the week days. He may be able to help.
You're not the only one that has had issues with the Spec Stage 2 or Stage 1 for that matter.
It's my thought that you've done the right things. If you put a thinner shim, it may solve the problem, but for how long ?
If you had to do it all over again, what might have worked, is no shim and an adjustable Tick-Tilton master cylinder. Those push alot more fluid and the adjustablilty will allow you to adjust for wear.
Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
Here are links for determinig correct stack height.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...need-shim.html
http://www.ramclutches.com/Tech/Tech...%20Bearing.jpg
.
04-26-2009, 04:31 PM
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What exactly are you suggesting bearcatt? The shim is the issue, and I need to get an adjustable master cylinder?
Or that I need a whole new setup?
Or that I need a whole new setup?
04-26-2009, 04:39 PM
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I had a Spec 01 that never worked correctly it lasted about 1000 miles.
I did everything short of making love to it. Installed the shim, removed the shim.
I'm not the only one, there are countless others with the stage I and II that have similar issues.
If you want an honest answer... I think your last statement is the answer to your question.
.
I did everything short of making love to it. Installed the shim, removed the shim.
I'm not the only one, there are countless others with the stage I and II that have similar issues.
If you want an honest answer... I think your last statement is the answer to your question.
.
04-26-2009, 05:28 PM
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I know it does suck and sorry for such a direct answer.
I'm just trying to save you the long term frustration and higher cost.
I just installed a complete new LS7 clutch kit and I love it !
You can get them from KYspeed or SDPC. ( both sponsors ).
I used ARP p/p and flywheel bolts (optional ).
New Tick m/c for Tick performance. ( optional but so worth it ).
New GM slave and throwout bearing.
This is good for up to about 450 rwhp. Not really a drag race clutch
but some do anyways.
As a daily driver and spirited street driving, it's perfect.
If you want something with more holding power, alot of guys have been very happy with thier monster clutches. ( I can't say I never tried one ).
.
I'm just trying to save you the long term frustration and higher cost.
I just installed a complete new LS7 clutch kit and I love it !
You can get them from KYspeed or SDPC. ( both sponsors ).
I used ARP p/p and flywheel bolts (optional ).
New Tick m/c for Tick performance. ( optional but so worth it ).
New GM slave and throwout bearing.
This is good for up to about 450 rwhp. Not really a drag race clutch
but some do anyways.
As a daily driver and spirited street driving, it's perfect.
If you want something with more holding power, alot of guys have been very happy with thier monster clutches. ( I can't say I never tried one ).
.
04-26-2009, 05:57 PM
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Well, I've got one more question before I decide what to do..
Would having the stock master cylinder in the car be causing the problem? Or do you think that the clutch is shot.
And.. would I need to buy a new master cylinder to support a Monster 3 clutch?
Thanks for your advice by the way it's helping me a lot
Would having the stock master cylinder in the car be causing the problem? Or do you think that the clutch is shot.
And.. would I need to buy a new master cylinder to support a Monster 3 clutch?
Thanks for your advice by the way it's helping me a lot
Last edited by dannyo210; 04-26-2009 at 06:21 PM.
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04-27-2009, 08:21 AM
#9
I apolologize for the delayed response...it was a busy weekend. In truth, the Stage 1 and 2 assemblies have the same stack height as all of our outher stages. I think that one significant point that is being missed here is that the clutch seemied to be fine for 7000 miles of use. This means that it worked...until something changed. When disassembled the bearing was found to be damaged...this could result from several factors. In order to better assess the situation I have a few questions? Where did the pedal initially engage and disengage, in terms of travel? Was it at the bottom, the middle or the top? Now that you have replaced the bearing where does engagement occur? If you replaced the bearing, with a part that had the same total depth, then there should have been no geometric change. If there is a new sound...it is likely that this is unrelated to the initial bearing wear. Have you examined the underside of the car to assess the noise further?
04-27-2009, 03:35 PM
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I apolologize for the delayed response...it was a busy weekend. In truth, the Stage 1 and 2 assemblies have the same stack height as all of our outher stages. I think that one significant point that is being missed here is that the clutch seemied to be fine for 7000 miles of use. This means that it worked...until something changed. When disassembled the bearing was found to be damaged...this could result from several factors. In order to better assess the situation I have a few questions? Where did the pedal initially engage and disengage, in terms of travel? Was it at the bottom, the middle or the top? Now that you have replaced the bearing where does engagement occur? If you replaced the bearing, with a part that had the same total depth, then there should have been no geometric change. If there is a new sound...it is likely that this is unrelated to the initial bearing wear. Have you examined the underside of the car to assess the noise further?
The sound is not 'new'. It's the same sound that was occurring when my problem started. The only difference is now that the clutch will engage and disengage. It seems that the sound only happens when the car is in gear moving, or the pedal is pushed down. When the car is in neutral and standing still it makes no odd noises/vibrations. And the sound is DEFINITELY coming from the bell housing area.
I had this input from a user on another forum with the same problem as me.
I had the exact same problem. I replaced the clutch, flywheel, and slave cylinder about a year and a half ago. But I began having very similar problems to the ones you described. I had to nearly call for a tow truck several times and the car would nearly stall out when the clutch was engaged because it felt like the clutch wasn't fully disengaging from the flywheel; even though the clutch pedal was to the floor.
One thing I learned with driving with the problem: when the problem occurs, either pop it into neutral or shut the car off. Then pump the clutch pedal about 15-20 times and it almost always temporarily solved the problem.
In my opinion, it's either a slave cylinder problem or a master cylinder problem and I took a gamble and replaced the master since I want no part in dropping the tranny again. I just replaced the master cylinder tonight and I hope that fixed it. I've taken it around the block once tonight and all the symptoms are gone and I have no problems in any gear, including reverse (Which was VERY difficult before). I won't know more until I take it out on an extended drive, but so far so good.
One thing I learned with driving with the problem: when the problem occurs, either pop it into neutral or shut the car off. Then pump the clutch pedal about 15-20 times and it almost always temporarily solved the problem.
In my opinion, it's either a slave cylinder problem or a master cylinder problem and I took a gamble and replaced the master since I want no part in dropping the tranny again. I just replaced the master cylinder tonight and I hope that fixed it. I've taken it around the block once tonight and all the symptoms are gone and I have no problems in any gear, including reverse (Which was VERY difficult before). I won't know more until I take it out on an extended drive, but so far so good.
1. Buy a new master cylinder and see if all is well after the install. (Preferred, lol)
2. Say screw it and buy a new clutch kit and master cylinder..
When I had the trans dropped I took a look at the fingers on the clutch and they appeared to be wearing normally, as for the rest of it I can't really say.
I could use some input from you SPEC-01, if that's possible.
Thanks
Last edited by dannyo210; 04-27-2009 at 03:41 PM.
05-05-2009, 08:49 PM
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Here's another update on my ex-SPEC 2!
I found the problem. Keep in mind, this happened after ~7k miles of non-abusive daily driving..
When I took the pressure plate off of the flywheel, the inner spring fell out on to the floor. It looks like the retaining walls for the springs were fatiguing and one gave out.
Notice how nice the pressure plate, flywheel, and fingers are... this was mechanical failure, heh.
The outer spring was rubbing on the flywheel bolts..
Well, I'm happy that I at least found the problem. I think I'll be sending SPEC-01 a PM.
I found the problem. Keep in mind, this happened after ~7k miles of non-abusive daily driving..
When I took the pressure plate off of the flywheel, the inner spring fell out on to the floor. It looks like the retaining walls for the springs were fatiguing and one gave out.
Notice how nice the pressure plate, flywheel, and fingers are... this was mechanical failure, heh.
The outer spring was rubbing on the flywheel bolts..
Well, I'm happy that I at least found the problem. I think I'll be sending SPEC-01 a PM.
05-06-2009, 09:35 AM
#18
When and where was this originally purchased? It seems in your initial post that you reference this being bought in August but I need to find the actual purchase to move forward. Keep in mind that springs don't generally just decide to to do this on their own. The most common cause of such issues are relative to input-shaft play or an improperly installed or damaged pilot bearing.
