Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

A 6speed tranny that will hold your F/I or Nitrous power!!

Old 04-29-2009, 08:42 AM
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Default A 6speed tranny that will hold your F/I or Nitrous power!!

Well, after building a nice transmission and motor, my 3rd gear let go at WOT. I had all of the goodies in the tranny except the 9310 main shaft. Having that shaft wouldn't have saved me as it was the cluster that let go. I spoke with TJ @ RPM and I can't say enough good about them. They could have sold me another built tranny, but advised me that it wouldn't hold up to my power very well and I would be back in the same boat soon enough. TJ and Rodney said that the hot ticket would be to get a T6060. So I went on a search for just that. Using that tranny requires the matching rear end, the cradle, the spring, the lower control arms and the Pfadt adapter.
All of the 08 and up manual trans. Corvettes have this new T6060 in them. Each with different Gear ratios in them. The Z51 has the same gearing as the MN12, the Z06 has the same gearing as the M6 and the ZR1 has gearing all it's own. What you get with the T6060 is the same (or similar) as with the T-56 Magnum. The way to identify the trans is the sticker on the top. The ZR1 trans has the code GCDU on top and Z06 is GCDF. If it has UCF on it, it is 07 and older C6 Z06. I haven't seen the sticker for the Z51's yet.
I will be picking up my transmission, rear diff, cradle etc. today and posting pics as well as a write-up so that those interested in making the conversion should know what it takes.

Here's some details about the T-56, what causes the transmissions to fail and what is better about the new T6060, copied from a magazine article that I read.

How It Works
We should begin with the basics just to get everyone up to speed. Virtually every modern manual transmission consists of three shafts inside its case: the input shaft, the mainshaft, and the countershaft. The input shaft extends through the front of the case and engages the clutch hub splines, transmitting power from the engine into the transmission. The mainshaft fits into a hub in the back of the input shaft and extends out through the tailhousing of the transmission; it holds the driven or speed gears. The countershaft is located beneath the input and mainshaft assemblies; it holds the cluster gear.

The gear on the end of the input shaft meshes with an opposing gear on the cluster gear. These two gears usually are the same size and tooth count and turn at a 1:1 ratio. Because the cluster gear is usually all one forging, the whole thing turns as a unit. So when the engine is running and the clutch is engaged (foot off the pedal), these two gears turn at engine speed.

The cluster gear meshes with the driven speed gears on the mainshaft. Their differing sizes and tooth counts form the different ratios of the transmission. These driven gears are not mechanically connected to the mainshaft, however. They spin on bearings that allow them to freewheel. To understand this, consider what's happening when the engine is running with the transmission in Neutral. With the clutch disengaged, the engine is turning the input shaft and cluster gear. The cluster gear is turning all the driven gears, but the mainshaft--which is ultimately connected to the driveshaft--does not turn.

So how does engine power get to the mainshaft? The answer is through the synchronizer assemblies. Between each pair of gears is a synchronizer hub that is splined to the mainshaft and turns whenever the wheels turn. The synchronizer hub looks like a toothed wheel. It is encircled by a sliding sleeve or collar. This slider has internal teeth that match the external teeth on the hub. The slider's teeth also match the beveled dog teeth machined into the face of each driven gear. When you move the shift lever, the shifter forks move the slider forward or backward, causing it to engage the dogs on the gear face and the teeth of the synchronizer hub. When this happens, that gear is locked to the mainshaft, causing it to turn.

For the slider to engage the dogs on the driven gear, the two must be turning at almost the same speed. Consider a simple two-speed transmission with a 2:1 low gear and a 1:1 high gear. At an engine speed of 6,000 rpm, the input shaft and cluster gear are also turning at 6,000 rpm--so is our freewheeling high gear on the mainshaft. However, the mainshaft, synchronizer hub, slider, and driveshaft are turning at half that speed--3,000 rpm--because of the reduction of our 2:1 low gear. Attempting the shift would be very difficult. There are too many parts traveling at different speeds, making it nearly impossible to execute a smooth, grind-free shift.


How It Breaks
Now that we've gone over how it works, we can address how it breaks and how to make it better. As you can imagine, the blocker rings, sliders, and dog teeth take the harshest beating, especially under the sloppy shifting of a ham-fisted owner. But the parts that break are usually gear teeth and shafts. When a gear is selected, the dogs of that gear are encircled completely by the sliding collar, and power from the engine is spread out over a wide area--not so much with the gear teeth, however. The cluster gear and driven gears mesh in a relatively small area of contact--that's why the gear teeth will often break before the dogs are sheared off. There are a few options to solve this breakage problem: Use harder steel to make the gears, make the gears bigger or wider, or reduce the pitch of the gear teeth. Some of these options are more expensive than the others, but the best option for all-out performance is to do all three. That's where we move into the high-performance transmission market.

OE Plus
OE transmissions are a series of compromises made to allow quiet operation, smooth shifting, and long life. Unfortunately, these characteristics can make for clunky operation at the racetrack or worse yet, a box of ugly metal chunks when you put a lot of power to it. Tremec has just released a stronger version of the ubiquitous T56. Dubbed the T56 Magnum, it is filled with a number of improvements gleaned from years of R&D, racing in the American Le Mans series, and working with the OEs designing transmissions to go behind newer and more powerful engines in the Corvette Z06 and ZR1, Cadillac CTS-V, and Dodge Viper.

We discussed these improvements with the guys from Tremec. Product engineer Kevin Ryan told us one of the first improvements made was to increase the size of the input shaft and upgrade all the bearings in the box. The input shaft bearing is now nearly twice as large as the original T56, and all the bearings are made of better materials. Next, they switched to a proprietary blend of 4615 steel, a high nickel and molybdenum alloy that is stronger than stock but still easier to machine than the ultrahard 9310 steel used in most all-out racing boxes. The 4615 steel is used throughout the box--all the gearsets and shafts are made from it.

The gears in the T56 Magnum are wider than those in the T56. "That was a challenge," Ryan says. "We had to put bigger gears inside a case that was the same size as the original design." To accomplish this, Tremec changed the way its driven gears are manufactured. Most gears are forgings that include the dogs and the tapered cone that is engaged by the synchronizer blocker rings. All of these things need to be wide enough for the cutting tools to fit around those various surfaces to machine them properly. In the Magnum, two-piece gears are used. The gears and dogs are separate forgings that are laser-welded together. They fit tighter because they do not have to design in extra space for machining tool clearance. This tighter fit means a wider gear can occupy the same space.
For faster, more precise shifts, the linkages were altered for shorter throws, and triple-cone synchronizers were used on First and Second gears, replacing the old T56's double-cone design, while the remaining forward and Reverse gears got double-cone synchros. The synchros are all larger in diameter, too.

These changes significantly increased the amount of power the new T56 Magnum can support. It's rated at a validated 600 lb-ft, and remember, this is a stringent testing regimen that the OEs require to make sure the parts will last throughout at least the life of the powertrain warranty. In reality, the Magnum could likely handle quite a bit more power depending on a number of factors, such as the car's weight and what type of clutch and tires are being used.

Here's some pics.
Notice the differential and transmission each has a cooler.








Here's the pump, integrated into the T6060


[/QUOTE]
Old 04-29-2009, 08:42 AM
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I got the old trans out the other day and the new one in. Some notes for anyone doing this conversion. You will have to cut the bell housing for access to the pump output on the trans. The 08Z's have lines that go up to the radiator and all the way back to the heat sink block to draw heat out of the rear differential and then back to the trans where they squirt the fluid directly on the gears. Another thanks to RPM as they suggested that I use a heat sink or "log" cooler. I will order one next week and find a suitable location for mounting on the cradle. The other thing is that the connections have 37° ferrules pressed on and go into a fitting that is called a 9/16x18 straight thread O-ring fitting. I purchased some fittings from Napa today that will convert that to compression fittings instead of the ferrules. It uses 3/8 O.D. tubing. I am really impressed with this tranny and differential. From the integrated pumps on both the differential and trans to the meatier main shaft and the differential is substantially larger than the C5. Another thing to note is the you'll have to use a Pfadt mount, which I purchased from RPM as well as some Royal Purple Synchromax for the trans and Valvoline 75/90 synthetic for the diff. Also, you need to save the shift rod from the C5 as the one from the C6 is 1.5" longer. Between setting in the trans to cut the access hole for the pump output and getting the shift rod put on properly, I pulled and installed this trans 5 times on the floor of my garage. The ATV jack made it very easy. About 5 minutes in and 5 out each time.

I discovered that the shafts are different lengths. Here's some pics showing the difference in length. If you don't have the C5 shaft, just cut 1.5" off the long straight part and weld it back up. :thumbs:
Not knowing the length was different, it caused me to have to pull the gearbox back out to change it. No biggie.






You can see how the T-56 shaft tapers and the T6060 doesn't, making the T6060 shaft much stronger. Plus 3 splines added. :thumbs: Look at the difference in the mounting flanges for the differential. There is a substantial increase in load distribution in the new flange. Another aid in preventing carnage on a violent launch.





Here's the notch I cut in the bell housing for access to the pumps' output. Only took about 10 minutes with a 4" grinder and a cutoff wheel.


More to come when parts arrive.
Old 04-29-2009, 08:52 AM
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Those of you without Corvettes still have options. They are using these trannies in the GT500's, 08&up Vipers and a few other cars. It is called the T56 Magnum in the aftermarket world. You might call Tremec and see what other cars they're putting them in. You should be able to change the bell housing and tail section to fit your application and may have to change the # of splines in your driveshaft.
Old 04-29-2009, 12:42 PM
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Great write up man thanks a lot and keep us posted.


How much boost were you running with 911rwhp run??
Old 04-29-2009, 02:30 PM
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blownblue,

they already got them out. i should have my t-56 magnum in the mail this week or next. i have a 2002 trans am. they bolt right in. only different then the stock t-56 is that the shifter is a little further forward and that the out put spline is 31.
Old 04-29-2009, 03:58 PM
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Yeah, thanks for the info, but it is a kind of "old" news. Word travels fast ya know, on the net.
Old 04-29-2009, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by venom ws7
Great write up man thanks a lot and keep us posted.


How much boost were you running with 911rwhp run??
Thanks!

Running 18psi after the 8th pass on the dyno in an hour, so it was nice and heat soaked.

Last edited by BLOWNBLUEZ06; 04-29-2009 at 06:00 PM.
Old 04-29-2009, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Gen414
Yeah, thanks for the info, but it is a kind of "old" news. Word travels fast ya know, on the net.
Well I just didn't want to leave you F-body guys out, but I really wrote it for the Corvette guys. They don't advertise it as a T-56 magnum in an OEM format, so people read the article, but may not know we can put them in our Corvettes or how to make it work in a C5 since they don't just drop in and many of us are absolutely sick of rebuilding trannies on high horsepower applications.
On the T-56 Magnums, do they have integrated pumps for a cooler like the Vettes do?
Old 04-29-2009, 09:07 PM
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For anyone that thinks the Tr6060 is the end all transmission and that is bullet proof is sadly mistaken. I have seen two blow up 2nd gears in Gt500's and I got a call from another local shop looking for a front plate on a Vette TR6060. I asked them why they need it and they told me something in the front end of the unit blew up and tore up the front plate with it. I did not personally see the unit so I do not know what happend but I do expect to see them more often once the warranty runs out from the dealer.
Old 04-29-2009, 09:12 PM
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^^ the gt500 one is rated to 550 not 700 like the magnum. and the new magnum isnt like the gt500 where the bell housing is the front plate
Old 04-30-2009, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by thesource
For anyone that thinks the Tr6060 is the end all transmission and that is bullet proof is sadly mistaken. I have seen two blow up 2nd gears in Gt500's and I got a call from another local shop looking for a front plate on a Vette TR6060. I asked them why they need it and they told me something in the front end of the unit blew up and tore up the front plate with it. I did not personally see the unit so I do not know what happend but I do expect to see them more often once the warranty runs out from the dealer.
Well that sucks to hear. I hope for my sake (financially, spiritually and maritally) that this holds. I do feel like it's my best chance as there are many higher powered Vettes running them with success.


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