What oil for new short block ?
04-30-2009, 01:34 PM
#1
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What oil for new short block ? With the ls engines should i pour a little oil in the oil pump before i put the oil pan on?
What oil Should i use for first start up or wont matter ?
What oil Should i use for first start up or wont matter ?
04-30-2009, 01:46 PM
#2
A lot of people reccommend Shell Rotella T, which is for diesels, but it meets gasoline engine SAE spec as well. Its very rich in Zinc and other anti wear additives, so its good for engine break in. They also make it in a synthetic version now, which is 5W-40. I'd be hesitant to put 15W-40 in a brand new engine, its just way to high of a viscosity for a new, tight tolerance engine.
You can also use regular or synthetic oil as well. Synthetic is better because it provides superior lubrication by reducing heat and friction. Some people claim its bad to break a motor in on Synthetic, I've never seen any proof of this and I don't believe it. Brand new Corvettes, Vipers, Mercedes, ect ship right from the factory with synthetic oil in the crankcase, if it wasn't good for break in they wouldn't use it.
A good additive to use when priming a new engine is Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Its an excellent lubricant, and it stays where you apply it, like assembly lube would. When I assemble engines I use it on the timing chain, cylinder walls, in the oil pump, and on the top end of the motor as well. Generally I soak the lifters and pushrods in the lucas bottle, so that when they are installed, I have oil going to the top end of the motor more quickly.
Hope that helps.
You can also use regular or synthetic oil as well. Synthetic is better because it provides superior lubrication by reducing heat and friction. Some people claim its bad to break a motor in on Synthetic, I've never seen any proof of this and I don't believe it. Brand new Corvettes, Vipers, Mercedes, ect ship right from the factory with synthetic oil in the crankcase, if it wasn't good for break in they wouldn't use it.
A good additive to use when priming a new engine is Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Its an excellent lubricant, and it stays where you apply it, like assembly lube would. When I assemble engines I use it on the timing chain, cylinder walls, in the oil pump, and on the top end of the motor as well. Generally I soak the lifters and pushrods in the lucas bottle, so that when they are installed, I have oil going to the top end of the motor more quickly.
Hope that helps.
04-30-2009, 02:22 PM
#3
are you just now getting that thing up and running? i remember talking to you a few months ago when we were both having problems with WRE
as far as oil, i used rotella t too. valvoline vr1 seems to have a lot of zinc.
wes- yes, vettes and other cars come with mobil 1 from the factory, but IIRC it has to do with the type of rings they use.
as far as oil, i used rotella t too. valvoline vr1 seems to have a lot of zinc.
wes- yes, vettes and other cars come with mobil 1 from the factory, but IIRC it has to do with the type of rings they use.
04-30-2009, 02:32 PM
#4
Definately go with the Rotella T or Royal Purple break in oil, either one. The Zinc and phosphorous content isn't that necessary in roller motors as it is in a flat tappet setup, but still a good idea to run it. Rotella is available at just about everywhere including wal-mart
04-30-2009, 02:53 PM
#5
are you just now getting that thing up and running? i remember talking to you a few months ago when we were both having problems with WRE
as far as oil, i used rotella t too. valvoline vr1 seems to have a lot of zinc.
wes- yes, vettes and other cars come with mobil 1 from the factory, but IIRC it has to do with the type of rings they use.
as far as oil, i used rotella t too. valvoline vr1 seems to have a lot of zinc.
wes- yes, vettes and other cars come with mobil 1 from the factory, but IIRC it has to do with the type of rings they use.
Like I said, I've heard people say synthetic isn't good for break in before, but I've never seen any actual proof that its not.
As for Valvoline VR1, I wouldn't use that. Its racing oil, not break in oil, and it lacks critical additives that non-racing oils have.
04-30-2009, 06:31 PM
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Its got total seal stainless chrome rings for high heat/ boost
05GTO60 yea I went with a whole new engine builder so they had to start from the beginning. The stock shortblock is doing great with 16 psi of boost so i wasnt in a rush to get the new motor in. i cant wait to rip the old motor down and see how it held up. Im just starting to finish it now but i keep missing little **** like oil pump pickup bolts that are delaying me now .
05GTO60 yea I went with a whole new engine builder so they had to start from the beginning. The stock shortblock is doing great with 16 psi of boost so i wasnt in a rush to get the new motor in. i cant wait to rip the old motor down and see how it held up. Im just starting to finish it now but i keep missing little **** like oil pump pickup bolts that are delaying me now .
Last edited by BigRich954RR; 04-30-2009 at 06:40 PM.
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04-30-2009, 11:16 PM
#9
I'm prob gonna use some break in additive in my normal castrol gtx oil for the vette and stangs new motor..
05-01-2009, 10:10 AM
#11
weber recommended 20w-50w mineral oil for the break in period and specifically not any synthetic oil on my forged ls6.
i've been advised to stay clear of any synthetic until at least 500miles or more but to change the oil after 50-100miles of breaking in so will be using a 15-50w mineral this time until i get some more miles on it.
i've been advised to stay clear of any synthetic until at least 500miles or more but to change the oil after 50-100miles of breaking in so will be using a 15-50w mineral this time until i get some more miles on it.
