Maximum safe RPM and cubic inch for LS-1 block
05-01-2009, 11:37 AM
#1
Maximum safe RPM and cubic inch for LS-1 block What is a good high setpoint for the rev-limiter on my 02 stock bottom end?
Also what can an 02 LS-1 block be stroked to safely? I heard the block has some weight savings over the iron block so just curious how far it can go safely.
Also what can an 02 LS-1 block be stroked to safely? I heard the block has some weight savings over the iron block so just curious how far it can go safely.
05-02-2009, 12:42 AM
#3
This is what i wanted to do but i've heard the ls2 blocks are more reliable.
I called Steve and had he's very nice to deal with and he sent me this.
Russell,
Some history: I work closely with Darton and am one of the patent holders on the MID wet liners. I also designed the dry liners for the LS2 LS7 blocks. I am Darton's R&D and installation center. I have sleeved thousands of blocks going back to the '70's so I have more than a clue how to do this work.
The "problem" with cooling is related to the radiator not to the block. You need a larger radiator to get rid of the extra heat generated from a much more powerful engine than what came in the car stock.
I highly recommend a radiator upgrade, Evans coolant pump along with the required Evans MPG type R coolant with the wet liner. Evans makes an external stat housing which I also recommend for a large cube engine.
You can use any coolant with the dry liner blocks along with the Evans pump, stat housing and radiator upgrade.
The sleeves, both wet and dry, are 5.800" long. They are long enough to support a stroke length of 4.25" with a correctly designed piston. If your plan is to put a lot of miles on the engine, I would recommend going with a 4.125" stroke which will provide improved piston support and longer life. You will have plenty of power regardless.
You will need good heads to feed an engine that large. I have Richard at West Coast Racing heads rework the exhaust ports on the LS7 heads. I have sold several sets of jis reworked LS7 heads along with Mamo ported LS7 manifolds for these large cube engines. I can supply you with heads and manifold if you decide to go with a build.
Steve
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
I called Steve and had he's very nice to deal with and he sent me this.
Russell,
Some history: I work closely with Darton and am one of the patent holders on the MID wet liners. I also designed the dry liners for the LS2 LS7 blocks. I am Darton's R&D and installation center. I have sleeved thousands of blocks going back to the '70's so I have more than a clue how to do this work.
The "problem" with cooling is related to the radiator not to the block. You need a larger radiator to get rid of the extra heat generated from a much more powerful engine than what came in the car stock.
I highly recommend a radiator upgrade, Evans coolant pump along with the required Evans MPG type R coolant with the wet liner. Evans makes an external stat housing which I also recommend for a large cube engine.
You can use any coolant with the dry liner blocks along with the Evans pump, stat housing and radiator upgrade.
The sleeves, both wet and dry, are 5.800" long. They are long enough to support a stroke length of 4.25" with a correctly designed piston. If your plan is to put a lot of miles on the engine, I would recommend going with a 4.125" stroke which will provide improved piston support and longer life. You will have plenty of power regardless.
You will need good heads to feed an engine that large. I have Richard at West Coast Racing heads rework the exhaust ports on the LS7 heads. I have sold several sets of jis reworked LS7 heads along with Mamo ported LS7 manifolds for these large cube engines. I can supply you with heads and manifold if you decide to go with a build.
Steve
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
05-02-2009, 12:56 AM
#5
You can get to 8000 before having to drop a small loan amount on the valvetrain. As far as the block, I wouldn't go any more than a 4" stroke on a stock sleeve. The thing the iron block gives you over the LS1 block is a 4" bore. This is going to open up your selection of cylinder heads and ultimately determine the power you're going to make.
05-02-2009, 01:02 AM
#6
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you absolutely cannot under any circumstances go over 7200 rpm without a windage tray. The crank will push the oil up the side of the block ( whats left cuz most of it will be in circulation in the motor) run the oil pump dry and smoke the bearings.
On that note, you need at least 10 psi of oil pressure for every thousand revs. wanna go 7500? make damn sure youve got 80 psi minimum and enough oil capacity to keep it up.
a SFI flexplate will be a must. a scatter shield just in case. be careful of the accessories on the belt too. underdrive em, they were not designed to spin that fast, the alternator especially.
On that note, you need at least 10 psi of oil pressure for every thousand revs. wanna go 7500? make damn sure youve got 80 psi minimum and enough oil capacity to keep it up.
a SFI flexplate will be a must. a scatter shield just in case. be careful of the accessories on the belt too. underdrive em, they were not designed to spin that fast, the alternator especially.
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05-02-2009, 02:42 PM
#8
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you absolutely cannot under any circumstances go over 7200 rpm without a windage tray. The crank will push the oil up the side of the block ( whats left cuz most of it will be in circulation in the motor) run the oil pump dry and smoke the bearings.
On that note, you need at least 10 psi of oil pressure for every thousand revs. wanna go 7500? make damn sure youve got 80 psi minimum and enough oil capacity to keep it up.
a SFI flexplate will be a must. a scatter shield just in case. be careful of the accessories on the belt too. underdrive em, they were not designed to spin that fast, the alternator especially.
On that note, you need at least 10 psi of oil pressure for every thousand revs. wanna go 7500? make damn sure youve got 80 psi minimum and enough oil capacity to keep it up.
a SFI flexplate will be a must. a scatter shield just in case. be careful of the accessories on the belt too. underdrive em, they were not designed to spin that fast, the alternator especially.
05-02-2009, 08:24 PM
#9
I'm the type of guy to listen to someone that has been doing the service and has experience. Not a woulda shoulda coulda kinda guy. Take online forums as a grain of salt because on here...everybody is an "EXPERT". Before you start raising your limiter, talk to a reputable shop...or you'll find a window in your block and a pool in your driveway.
05-02-2009, 11:18 PM
#11
peak hp varies depending on the cam and intake. There is no rule that says an LS engine ONLY peaks 62-6400. Even if it did peak at 6400, and carried out to 7000 before dropping, then you better be shifting at or around 7000 or you are leaving a lot on the table.
05-02-2009, 11:37 PM
#12
actually that's not even totally right...you carry it out as far as it takes for the least amount of HP drop between shifts. On engines that carry out pretty well or have short gear ratios, you may be shifting 1000RPM or more above peak for that to happen.
05-03-2009, 02:35 AM
#14
TECH Senior Member
What he meant is your shift points are usualy determined by trial and error at the track for exemple (because you can read the difference on your time sheets).
It is not set that if your cam peaks at XXXX amount that your best shift points are XXXX + 500 let us say.
As he said best shift points are the ones that will give you the best average power between shifts.
It is not set that if your cam peaks at XXXX amount that your best shift points are XXXX + 500 let us say.
As he said best shift points are the ones that will give you the best average power between shifts.
05-03-2009, 03:33 AM
#15
What he meant is your shift points are usualy determined by trial and error at the track for exemple (because you can read the difference on your time sheets).
It is not set that if your cam peaks at XXXX amount that your best shift points are XXXX + 500 let us say.
As he said best shift points are the ones that will give you the best average power between shifts.
It is not set that if your cam peaks at XXXX amount that your best shift points are XXXX + 500 let us say.
As he said best shift points are the ones that will give you the best average power between shifts.
It's all pretty subjective to the given setup.
05-03-2009, 04:58 PM
#16
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if he has one factory and didnt know it, then good call. If he didnt know he needed it then i told him. I do know what im saying brainiac and thanks for confirming that by saying youve got an upgraded pump
