Temp Control Switch
05-02-2009, 12:07 AM
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Temp Control Switch i got an 00 LS1
not to long ago i put in some hooker LT's and when i was pushing them up into the motor, i slipped, pushed a little too far, and broke the temp control switch on the driver side head.
well i replaced it with a new switch and when the sensor is plugged in, my car will drive fine for about 10 minutes.. than it will BOG waaaayyy the hell down, and when i look at the cluster, my temperature is going from 110 to 280 really fast, than back down..
needless to say i've replaced the switch like 4 times and i still have th problem, so i knwo its not the switch,
what im wondering is.. if i put a volt meter to the switch.. what reading should i get? i need to determine where to replace the wires to the switch.
i cant find the info, so anyhing i can get off here will help. THANKS
not to long ago i put in some hooker LT's and when i was pushing them up into the motor, i slipped, pushed a little too far, and broke the temp control switch on the driver side head.
well i replaced it with a new switch and when the sensor is plugged in, my car will drive fine for about 10 minutes.. than it will BOG waaaayyy the hell down, and when i look at the cluster, my temperature is going from 110 to 280 really fast, than back down..
needless to say i've replaced the switch like 4 times and i still have th problem, so i knwo its not the switch,
what im wondering is.. if i put a volt meter to the switch.. what reading should i get? i need to determine where to replace the wires to the switch.
i cant find the info, so anyhing i can get off here will help. THANKS
05-05-2009, 01:22 AM
#2
Not sure on GM sensors but on my stang the temp sensors are just thermistors meaning the resistance changes with the temperature....and run off a 5 volt reference. so if the sensor gets 5 volts and with 80 degrees it might put out 2 volts n thats what the computer will see...and say around 200 degrees the resistance decreases and it might come out with 4 volts for the ecu...just an example
If it's the same way you can just ohm out the sensor with an ohmeter with the harness disconnected or probe the return wire coming out of the sensor with the key on and harness connected and should see a certain voltage. Should be able to find some reference tables what the ohms/voltages should be at certain temps somewhere online....
If it's the same way you can just ohm out the sensor with an ohmeter with the harness disconnected or probe the return wire coming out of the sensor with the key on and harness connected and should see a certain voltage. Should be able to find some reference tables what the ohms/voltages should be at certain temps somewhere online....
05-31-2009, 02:27 PM
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ty for the help. i put a meter on it and got a reading for the switch.. not sure how to read the analog meter.. but i think it said 10 volts.
so if im getting a reading, im still curious as to what the problem is.. anyone else have an idea?
so if im getting a reading, im still curious as to what the problem is.. anyone else have an idea?
05-31-2009, 02:29 PM
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the wierd thing is that when the sensor is plugged in, the car runs like crap.. bogs up and down.. blah blah blah.
BUT..
when the sensor is unplugged, the car runs and starts fine, drives great.. just cant read the temperature..
only problem is... = when i fill up at the gas station, the car floods out and its a bitch to start.. this happens only when i fill up at teh pump, no other times.. plz help
ty
BUT..
when the sensor is unplugged, the car runs and starts fine, drives great.. just cant read the temperature..
only problem is... = when i fill up at the gas station, the car floods out and its a bitch to start.. this happens only when i fill up at teh pump, no other times.. plz help
ty