Project "bad ass" TRUE DUALS underway. Please comment on my design.
05-04-2009, 07:29 AM
#1
Project "bad ***" TRUE DUALS underway. Please comment on my design. SOUNDCLIPS HAVE BEEN ADDED BELOW
This thread shows the progress and final results of desigining and creating my new custom exhaust system. I built it entirely by myself, in the garage in about 25 hours spread out over almost two monts.
The system is entirely 2.5" mandrel bent stainless steel with all welds ground smooth. I have the ability to remove the cutout pipes and install Magnaflow catalytic converters in less than 20 minute when the need arises. The cutout pipes are equipped with dual QTP e-cutouts.
These are the basic specs of my stainless, mandrel bent exhaust system:
Below are current pics of the my current setup:
Sound clips:
Idle, no cats, cutouts closed
Idle with dual cutouts wide open
This thread shows the progress and final results of desigining and creating my new custom exhaust system. I built it entirely by myself, in the garage in about 25 hours spread out over almost two monts.
The system is entirely 2.5" mandrel bent stainless steel with all welds ground smooth. I have the ability to remove the cutout pipes and install Magnaflow catalytic converters in less than 20 minute when the need arises. The cutout pipes are equipped with dual QTP e-cutouts.
These are the basic specs of my stainless, mandrel bent exhaust system:
- 2.5" catalytic converters or "cutouts" right behind the collector that are easily switchable.
- 3" to 2.5" reducers to the 2.5" dual pipes with the X-pipe located just after the short TA mount.
- 2.5" in front of the x-pipe.
- 2.5" pipe back to the dual in/dual out Magnaflow muffler in stock location.
- 2.5" pipe from the muffler to each side under the rear bumper topped off with some nice stainless dual oval tips.
Below are current pics of the my current setup:
Sound clips:
Idle, no cats, cutouts closed
Idle with dual cutouts wide open
Last edited by wrd1972; 06-29-2009 at 09:15 AM.
05-04-2009, 07:54 AM
#2
Just go 2.5 all the way. An exhaust system - or any type of path for fuel, water, air, etc - will always only flow as much as the point of least restriction.
Full 2.5" will have more clearance and be easier to work with then trying to go from 2.5" to 3". Not to mention changing exhaust diameter halfway through the system can cause all sorts of turbulence, backpressure, pulses, and other wierd things that can't be predicted without being a physics whiz or having expensive software. That is why true tuned step headers are so expensive - the length between each step is critical to making power by promoting scavenging, and if done wrong can actually cost you power.
Sounds like an awesome plan though, and I like the idea of easy to switch cats and straight pipes. Good luck and post lots of pics!
Full 2.5" will have more clearance and be easier to work with then trying to go from 2.5" to 3". Not to mention changing exhaust diameter halfway through the system can cause all sorts of turbulence, backpressure, pulses, and other wierd things that can't be predicted without being a physics whiz or having expensive software. That is why true tuned step headers are so expensive - the length between each step is critical to making power by promoting scavenging, and if done wrong can actually cost you power.
Sounds like an awesome plan though, and I like the idea of easy to switch cats and straight pipes. Good luck and post lots of pics!
05-04-2009, 09:28 AM
#4
Puck,
Thanks for the comment on just going 2.5" throughout.
Would you use a 3" cat/test pipe attached straight to the collector, then the reducer. Or attach the reducer to the collector then use a 2.5" cat? Seems like the bigger cat/test pipe might flow a bit better.
What do you think?
Thanks for the comment on just going 2.5" throughout.
Would you use a 3" cat/test pipe attached straight to the collector, then the reducer. Or attach the reducer to the collector then use a 2.5" cat? Seems like the bigger cat/test pipe might flow a bit better.
What do you think?
05-04-2009, 10:17 AM
#5
i like that set-up a lot. i am going to be getting mine redone in the next couple months and adding a x-pipe and 2.5 bullets. they will follow your exact path, but i'm going to leave the end of the bullets open immediately after the x-pipe so that once my CME is ready to go on i can have the rest of the piping ran out the back over the axle to the tips. my reducer will be after my collectors
as for how big of a cat, i'd do them in 3" to get the best possible flow. how are they going to be attached? 3 bolt flange?
as for how big of a cat, i'd do them in 3" to get the best possible flow. how are they going to be attached? 3 bolt flange?
05-04-2009, 10:20 AM
#7
Im going to do this same setup on my formula im picking up!
True dauls dumped is awsome but just to loud most of the time, and this type of setup has alot more tone and more of a "vette" sound...
True dauls dumped is awsome but just to loud most of the time, and this type of setup has alot more tone and more of a "vette" sound...
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05-04-2009, 11:23 AM
#12
I would def go 3" cat off the headers then 2.5 reducer.
Not sure on the flow relationship between a 3" cat and 2.5" straight pipe, but I know for sure 2.5" cat won't flow like a 2.5" straight pipe so might as well do 3" cat to 2.5" pipe
. Make sense? Kind of difficult to word lol.
Not sure on the flow relationship between a 3" cat and 2.5" straight pipe, but I know for sure 2.5" cat won't flow like a 2.5" straight pipe so might as well do 3" cat to 2.5" pipe
. Make sense? Kind of difficult to word lol.
05-04-2009, 11:58 AM
#13
In the process of designing mandrel bent true duals for my ride. See sig for specs.
I am wanting to build a combination 3" to 2.5" pipe setup to ensure I get max performance without out going overkill for my engine specs. I don't think I really need 3" pipes to the rear bumper. I also want the ability to switch between cats and "test pipes" in rather short time. The overall design will look very much like the $1000 Basanni setup:
This is what I have in mind currently:
My question
1. Would the 3" / 2.5" pipe combo setup be best or should I just go 2.5" pipes throughout?
2. Any other comments on my design
I am wanting to build a combination 3" to 2.5" pipe setup to ensure I get max performance without out going overkill for my engine specs. I don't think I really need 3" pipes to the rear bumper. I also want the ability to switch between cats and "test pipes" in rather short time. The overall design will look very much like the $1000 Basanni setup:
This is what I have in mind currently:
- 3" catalytic converters or "test pipes" right behind the collector that are easily switchable.
- 3" pipes from the LT collectors to the 3" X-pipe located at the short TA mount.
- 3" cutouts ~18" behind the collectors.
- 3" to 2.5" pipe reducers just after the X-pipe.
- 2.5" pipe from the reducers back to the dual in/dual out Magnaflow muffler in stock location.
- 2.5" pipe from the muffler to each side under the rear bumper topped off with some nice tips.
My question
1. Would the 3" / 2.5" pipe combo setup be best or should I just go 2.5" pipes throughout?
2. Any other comments on my design
05-04-2009, 01:07 PM
#16
Thats a copy of the exhaust I fabbed up last year. I went from Hooker LTs to 2.5" pipes to an x pipe into a magnaflow daul in dual out muffler and a 2OTL exit.
I would suggest to just keep 2.5" throughout the system, ditch the cutouts :puke: and buy a panhard bar relocator to give a little more room in that area. My exhaust pipes hit the stock bar on hard bumps and I will be ordering the relocation bar someday. And if your car is lowered you are not going to have very much ground clerence, but thats mostly because of the headers. If you plan on cutouts and more stuff that not really needed you will loose even more clearence. I just really dislike cutouts, they cause turbulance and it makes the car sound like **** when they are open.
I'll dig up the build up of my system, theres lots of pics there
I would suggest to just keep 2.5" throughout the system, ditch the cutouts :puke: and buy a panhard bar relocator to give a little more room in that area. My exhaust pipes hit the stock bar on hard bumps and I will be ordering the relocation bar someday. And if your car is lowered you are not going to have very much ground clerence, but thats mostly because of the headers. If you plan on cutouts and more stuff that not really needed you will loose even more clearence. I just really dislike cutouts, they cause turbulance and it makes the car sound like **** when they are open.
I'll dig up the build up of my system, theres lots of pics there
05-04-2009, 01:14 PM
#17
05-04-2009, 10:40 PM
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