2nd gear downshift hesitating and/or slipping, flywheel making ticking sound
05-06-2009, 12:53 PM
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Texas City, TX
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2nd gear downshift hesitating and/or slipping, flywheel making ticking sound (As 01ssreda4 pointed out, I mean flexplate, NOT flywheel, srry)
I searched but everything I found didn't exactly apply to me
On my 2002 SS when I punch it anywhere that'll make it downshift to 2nd gear(from either 3rd or 4th, D or OD), or sometimes just 75% throttle, the transmission hesitates. It's as if the rpm's, engine, and everything are locked in to that range. This lasts for one second and then it is like the transmission is trying to catch up to itself. It feels like the transmission was like gooey and was accelerating really slow. The transmission sounds like a manual tranny car taking off almost, the rpm's dip, then rise up quickly. All this happens in second gear only, at any speed within second gear.
Except at the 65-70 mph zone where the transmission is at the top of the range where it will still downshift into second. Most of the time when I punch it there, it will slip so bad that the engine will jump up to the rev limiter and bounce off it about 4 or 5 times(within about a second or so) and then pop into 3rd really hard, but not jerkingly hard. That scares the crap outta me and I immediately back off
Now if I put it in second myself and then punch it, it still hesitates and then gets up to speed the same way as before, just not as bad. Also sometimes at the top of first it will bounce off the limiter and then get into second
None of this happens in any other gear, it usually accelerates fine from a dead stop all the way to 4th gear at 135+, except for the 1st to 2nd thing every once in a while. It accelerates smoothly in normal driving too
My car about a year ago cracked its flywheel because of the starter actuator got stuck against the flywheel, and I took it into get it fixed at the dealer because I still have a warranty. They supposedly replaced the flywheel, starter, and I think the torque converter too. Before that accident I had a G-force motorsports tune, which my car worked great with. After I got it back from the shop is when this started happening. I took it back twice and even showed the service adviser what was wrong. He told me the second time that they had a tranny specialist come down from Houston or Detroit to look at it. He said the tranny's are 'supposed' to do that, yeah right, my friend's trans am shifts nothing like that, his is perfect.
I went to Ron Carter over in Alvin because my parents have friends there, and their work I've always heard is good. My new service adviser said if they had a specialist come down there would be case report filed, and there was none in the computer system
They said the 1-2 shift valve body was bad and they replaced that, and it helped, but didn't fix the problem entirely. I've taken it back in once since then and they're trying to find out what I'm talking about but they don't notice anything wrong. This next time I plan on scheduling an appointment so I can show them first hand, preferably the mechanic if I can.
I was thinking, maybe it was the valve body again? Or the clutch pack behind the torque converter?(isn't that what it's called or am I making things up?) My friend with the trans am thought the line pressure?
I was hoping to also give my best thoughts as to what it is, so I thought I would ask y'all
Now the thing with the flywheel is at high rpm's it makes a ticking sound, like rocks coming off of the tires and hitting the fender wells. This is the sound I heard several times before my flywheel cracked last time. This is also what it sounded like was being described in the cracked flywheel thread, which is making me nervous
Also since this started happening again, I get really weak starts sometimes. Making me think it is the starter actuator(I forgot what it is really called) hitting the flywheel. Although maybe it's loose? And I'm starting to think my old dealer didn't actually put a new starter in, maybe this one's wearing out?
It starts just fine when cold about 3/4 of the time. It starts good when hot only about 1/3 of the time. It turns over a bit slow sometimes and other times it doesn't and turns over like normal. When it doesn't start the first time, when I try starting it again it turns over immediately, like it needed a certain number of revolutions before it could crank. I know it does need a certain number, it's just it shouldn't be as much as it is
What is the transmission problem? The flywheel? If there appears to be nothing wrong with the flywheel they won't fix it of course. And is there anything wrong with the starter?
I'm sorry for all the typing, long drawn out story, and all the questions but I've been meaning to ask for a long time now and thought I should just explain it all at once
Any input would be great, and I sincerely appreciate everybody helping or just reading through to see if they can. Thanks
I searched but everything I found didn't exactly apply to me
On my 2002 SS when I punch it anywhere that'll make it downshift to 2nd gear(from either 3rd or 4th, D or OD), or sometimes just 75% throttle, the transmission hesitates. It's as if the rpm's, engine, and everything are locked in to that range. This lasts for one second and then it is like the transmission is trying to catch up to itself. It feels like the transmission was like gooey and was accelerating really slow. The transmission sounds like a manual tranny car taking off almost, the rpm's dip, then rise up quickly. All this happens in second gear only, at any speed within second gear.
Except at the 65-70 mph zone where the transmission is at the top of the range where it will still downshift into second. Most of the time when I punch it there, it will slip so bad that the engine will jump up to the rev limiter and bounce off it about 4 or 5 times(within about a second or so) and then pop into 3rd really hard, but not jerkingly hard. That scares the crap outta me and I immediately back off
Now if I put it in second myself and then punch it, it still hesitates and then gets up to speed the same way as before, just not as bad. Also sometimes at the top of first it will bounce off the limiter and then get into second
None of this happens in any other gear, it usually accelerates fine from a dead stop all the way to 4th gear at 135+, except for the 1st to 2nd thing every once in a while. It accelerates smoothly in normal driving too
My car about a year ago cracked its flywheel because of the starter actuator got stuck against the flywheel, and I took it into get it fixed at the dealer because I still have a warranty. They supposedly replaced the flywheel, starter, and I think the torque converter too. Before that accident I had a G-force motorsports tune, which my car worked great with. After I got it back from the shop is when this started happening. I took it back twice and even showed the service adviser what was wrong. He told me the second time that they had a tranny specialist come down from Houston or Detroit to look at it. He said the tranny's are 'supposed' to do that, yeah right, my friend's trans am shifts nothing like that, his is perfect.
I went to Ron Carter over in Alvin because my parents have friends there, and their work I've always heard is good. My new service adviser said if they had a specialist come down there would be case report filed, and there was none in the computer system
They said the 1-2 shift valve body was bad and they replaced that, and it helped, but didn't fix the problem entirely. I've taken it back in once since then and they're trying to find out what I'm talking about but they don't notice anything wrong. This next time I plan on scheduling an appointment so I can show them first hand, preferably the mechanic if I can.
I was thinking, maybe it was the valve body again? Or the clutch pack behind the torque converter?(isn't that what it's called or am I making things up?) My friend with the trans am thought the line pressure?
I was hoping to also give my best thoughts as to what it is, so I thought I would ask y'all
Now the thing with the flywheel is at high rpm's it makes a ticking sound, like rocks coming off of the tires and hitting the fender wells. This is the sound I heard several times before my flywheel cracked last time. This is also what it sounded like was being described in the cracked flywheel thread, which is making me nervous
Also since this started happening again, I get really weak starts sometimes. Making me think it is the starter actuator(I forgot what it is really called) hitting the flywheel. Although maybe it's loose? And I'm starting to think my old dealer didn't actually put a new starter in, maybe this one's wearing out?
It starts just fine when cold about 3/4 of the time. It starts good when hot only about 1/3 of the time. It turns over a bit slow sometimes and other times it doesn't and turns over like normal. When it doesn't start the first time, when I try starting it again it turns over immediately, like it needed a certain number of revolutions before it could crank. I know it does need a certain number, it's just it shouldn't be as much as it is
What is the transmission problem? The flywheel? If there appears to be nothing wrong with the flywheel they won't fix it of course. And is there anything wrong with the starter?
I'm sorry for all the typing, long drawn out story, and all the questions but I've been meaning to ask for a long time now and thought I should just explain it all at once
Any input would be great, and I sincerely appreciate everybody helping or just reading through to see if they can. Thanks
Last edited by Tommy 35 SS; 05-06-2009 at 02:45 PM. Reason: Learned something new lol
05-06-2009, 02:38 PM
#4
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Texas City, TX
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
05-06-2009, 10:38 PM
#7
Teching In
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: In da fog
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
flywheel making ticking sound Yeah they have flexplates. I have a 01 SS and mine just started ticking i thought it was an exhaust leak at first but it turned out to be my flexplate. it cost about $630 bucks labor included so its not that bad. But my car wasnt acting funny just the ticking noise. I would put it on a rack and get under it and feel where the ticking is coming from. Im sure its your flexplate
Trending Topics
05-06-2009, 11:23 PM
#8
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Acworth
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the weld on the flex plate its broken there are six welds if i remember right. under pressure one of the weld broke so now when it spins it rattles CHANGE IT if it brakes loose you got a 180 tooth razor sharp wheel spinning at at least 1500 RPM (but most likly at higher RPM ) which will saw through your tranny ,car, and even your foot!!! it not something you wanna expirience!!! roughly parts and labor will run ya about 600ish 250-300 labor is about right and 300-350 for the factory part is about right but you can get a light weight one for a bit less not that it makes a real noticable difference,
***this is also a good time to change the tranny filter and DEFINATLY change all the fluid cause since the tranny is coming out anyway you can get all the fluid out the torque convertor. with all that it should add maybe $100 about 10 for labor and 90 for filter and fluid... if you did this at a ater date, to change it it would be about $400, most places that flush it cost you about $120 but they don't change your filter, they Flush clean but this isn't very good for a tranny, plus it dont get all the stuff in the torque convertor out... so my suggestion while the tranny is out any way change the fluid
summery
flex plate 250-300
labor 300-350
tranny fluid about 60-70
tranny filter 12-25
labor to change filter and fluid 10-25
total 632-770
***for me it for all this it cost me $683 out the door on a 1989 Mercedes 300E your should be around the same price
hope all this help sorry for spelling errors im tired and i was only taking a break from studying for my final tomorrow in biology
good luck with your problem though
***this is also a good time to change the tranny filter and DEFINATLY change all the fluid cause since the tranny is coming out anyway you can get all the fluid out the torque convertor. with all that it should add maybe $100 about 10 for labor and 90 for filter and fluid... if you did this at a ater date, to change it it would be about $400, most places that flush it cost you about $120 but they don't change your filter, they Flush clean but this isn't very good for a tranny, plus it dont get all the stuff in the torque convertor out... so my suggestion while the tranny is out any way change the fluid
summery
flex plate 250-300
labor 300-350
tranny fluid about 60-70
tranny filter 12-25
labor to change filter and fluid 10-25
total 632-770
***for me it for all this it cost me $683 out the door on a 1989 Mercedes 300E your should be around the same price
hope all this help sorry for spelling errors im tired and i was only taking a break from studying for my final tomorrow in biology
good luck with your problem though
05-06-2009, 11:48 PM
#10
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Texas City, TX
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well that leaves one or two? things. Is the problem with the starter related to the flex plate?
and the transmission, what do y'all think is wrong with that?
thank y'all so much
05-06-2009, 11:52 PM
#11
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Texas City, TX
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the weld on the flex plate its broken there are six welds if i remember right. under pressure one of the weld broke so now when it spins it rattles CHANGE IT if it brakes loose you got a 180 tooth razor sharp wheel spinning at at least 1500 RPM (but most likly at higher RPM ) which will saw through your tranny ,car, and even your foot!!! it not something you wanna expirience!!! roughly parts and labor will run ya about 600ish 250-300 labor is about right and 300-350 for the factory part is about right but you can get a light weight one for a bit less not that it makes a real noticable difference,
***this is also a good time to change the tranny filter and DEFINATLY change all the fluid cause since the tranny is coming out anyway you can get all the fluid out the torque convertor. with all that it should add maybe $100 about 10 for labor and 90 for filter and fluid... if you did this at a ater date, to change it it would be about $400, most places that flush it cost you about $120 but they don't change your filter, they Flush clean but this isn't very good for a tranny, plus it dont get all the stuff in the torque convertor out... so my suggestion while the tranny is out any way change the fluid
summery
flex plate 250-300
labor 300-350
tranny fluid about 60-70
tranny filter 12-25
labor to change filter and fluid 10-25
total 632-770
***for me it for all this it cost me $683 out the door on a 1989 Mercedes 300E your should be around the same price
hope all this help sorry for spelling errors im tired and i was only taking a break from studying for my final tomorrow in biology
good luck with your problem though
***this is also a good time to change the tranny filter and DEFINATLY change all the fluid cause since the tranny is coming out anyway you can get all the fluid out the torque convertor. with all that it should add maybe $100 about 10 for labor and 90 for filter and fluid... if you did this at a ater date, to change it it would be about $400, most places that flush it cost you about $120 but they don't change your filter, they Flush clean but this isn't very good for a tranny, plus it dont get all the stuff in the torque convertor out... so my suggestion while the tranny is out any way change the fluid
summery
flex plate 250-300
labor 300-350
tranny fluid about 60-70
tranny filter 12-25
labor to change filter and fluid 10-25
total 632-770
***for me it for all this it cost me $683 out the door on a 1989 Mercedes 300E your should be around the same price
hope all this help sorry for spelling errors im tired and i was only taking a break from studying for my final tomorrow in biology
good luck with your problem though
05-07-2009, 05:54 PM
#12
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Acworth
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks i took them today i got 2 A's and 2 B's as my final grades in my classes so that pretty good lol
anyway....
your starter turns the flex plate to start the car so weak starts, or rough starts and even a noise kinda like change rateling is all related...
you car not shifting right is a different problem... maybe some thing to have looked at while the tranny is already out but it might even be a clogged filter have you ever replaised it?
anyway....
your starter turns the flex plate to start the car so weak starts, or rough starts and even a noise kinda like change rateling is all related...
you car not shifting right is a different problem... maybe some thing to have looked at while the tranny is already out but it might even be a clogged filter have you ever replaised it?
05-08-2009, 01:03 AM
#13
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Texas City, TX
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks i took them today i got 2 A's and 2 B's as my final grades in my classes so that pretty good lol
anyway....
your starter turns the flex plate to start the car so weak starts, or rough starts and even a noise kinda like change rateling is all related...
you car not shifting right is a different problem... maybe some thing to have looked at while the tranny is already out but it might even be a clogged filter have you ever replaised it?
anyway....
your starter turns the flex plate to start the car so weak starts, or rough starts and even a noise kinda like change rateling is all related...
you car not shifting right is a different problem... maybe some thing to have looked at while the tranny is already out but it might even be a clogged filter have you ever replaised it?
yeah, I had the filter and fluid replaced about 19,000 miles ago, along with it being flushed out, and everything else if I missed something because I had done by a professional mechanic my dad is best friends with. owns the biggest garage in town, and is the most successful too. unless the dealer did it last time that I had a problem with the valve body, which it wasn't listed and I forgot to ask
I'm thinkin it might be the valve body...? That is the part with the big maze right? lol, I'm still pretty much newb with cars. Can those go bad? or do they need new seals? or cleaned?
thanx, this has all helped a lot
05-08-2009, 10:52 AM
#14
Now if I put it in second myself and then punch it, it still hesitates and then gets up to speed the same way as before, just not as bad. Also sometimes at the top of first it will bounce off the limiter and then get into second
None of this happens in any other gear, it usually accelerates fine from a dead stop all the way to 4th gear at 135+, except for the 1st to 2nd thing every once in a while. It accelerates smoothly in normal driving too
None of this happens in any other gear, it usually accelerates fine from a dead stop all the way to 4th gear at 135+, except for the 1st to 2nd thing every once in a while. It accelerates smoothly in normal driving too
With a 2002 when the shifter is in second, it starts in second. Accellerate hard in manual second a lot and you'll notice slow shifts and possibly fry the band.
It also sounds like they maybe replaced the converter with one that stalls lower, either by mistake or ignorance.
Now the thing with the flywheel is at high rpm's it makes a ticking sound
You need a transmission tune. Maybe after you get the transmission diagnosed by someone with a gauge and other tools, not a test drive with the manager.
05-09-2009, 12:53 AM
#15
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Texas City, TX
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How often do you accellerate hard in second?
With a 2002 when the shifter is in second, it starts in second. Accellerate hard in manual second a lot and you'll notice slow shifts and possibly fry the band.
It also sounds like they maybe replaced the converter with one that stalls lower, either by mistake or ignorance.
Thats detonation possibly caused by your tune. A bad flexplate will make a low pitch knock at any rpm, even idle. I'd guarantee your flexplate isn't cracked if it only make A noise at high rpm.
You need a transmission tune. Maybe after you get the transmission diagnosed by someone with a gauge and other tools, not a test drive with the manager.
With a 2002 when the shifter is in second, it starts in second. Accellerate hard in manual second a lot and you'll notice slow shifts and possibly fry the band.
It also sounds like they maybe replaced the converter with one that stalls lower, either by mistake or ignorance.
Thats detonation possibly caused by your tune. A bad flexplate will make a low pitch knock at any rpm, even idle. I'd guarantee your flexplate isn't cracked if it only make A noise at high rpm.
You need a transmission tune. Maybe after you get the transmission diagnosed by someone with a gauge and other tools, not a test drive with the manager.
From what I'm told, the dealer reflashed the computer after they 'fixed' the transmission, flexplate, and starter, more like partially fixed the transmission. Would detonation happen on a stock tune? this is I'm assuming you're talking about like pre-detonation? I run 93 octane always
This tick sound, it's low pitch in a way. If you compared it to ticking you hear after getting out of a car on a hot day, it's much lower pitched. The best way I seem to be able to describe it is like rocks coming out of the tire. I swear this is sound before my flexplate cracked way back when. Then it started doing this at lower and lower rpm. Then it got really bad all of a sudden after I cranked it up and made a horrible grinding sound, but not like gears grinding on a manual transmission. If I got above 40 mph or 1800 rpm's it made that sound, it was an exemplified but louder sound of what I heard at high rpm's before. Now it's making this sound again
So should I go back to G-force motorsports and get it re-tuned?
How should I get the transmission checked out? What tools? I'm ignorant when it comes to this
Thank you for helping me
05-09-2009, 09:17 AM
#16
I'd go to G-Force motor sports and get it diagnosed. If the dealer reflashed the computer that means they put the stock tune in it.
Let the performance shop figure out the problem and fix it. Thats the best thing to do.
To diagnose a transmission problem would require a test drive, a pressure gauge, taking the pan off and seeing whats in there, etc. Maybe not all in that order. And if it is a broken flexplate they will replace it with something other than stock. Although I don't see why you'd break two flexplates with what you have.
Let the performance shop figure out the problem and fix it. Thats the best thing to do.
To diagnose a transmission problem would require a test drive, a pressure gauge, taking the pan off and seeing whats in there, etc. Maybe not all in that order. And if it is a broken flexplate they will replace it with something other than stock. Although I don't see why you'd break two flexplates with what you have.
05-09-2009, 11:53 PM
#17
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Texas City, TX
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd go to G-Force motor sports and get it diagnosed. If the dealer reflashed the computer that means they put the stock tune in it.
Let the performance shop figure out the problem and fix it. Thats the best thing to do.
To diagnose a transmission problem would require a test drive, a pressure gauge, taking the pan off and seeing whats in there, etc. Maybe not all in that order. And if it is a broken flexplate they will replace it with something other than stock. Although I don't see why you'd break two flexplates with what you have.
Let the performance shop figure out the problem and fix it. Thats the best thing to do.
To diagnose a transmission problem would require a test drive, a pressure gauge, taking the pan off and seeing whats in there, etc. Maybe not all in that order. And if it is a broken flexplate they will replace it with something other than stock. Although I don't see why you'd break two flexplates with what you have.
I've heard from people it might be the clutch pack....? I looked it up and it's the part right behind the torque converter right? transfer of power to the gears from the converter? I still think it's the valve body though. I'll do what you say and take it to G-force, then take it to the dealership after they find out exactly what's wrong with it.
I don't mean to not give them business, but I still got a warranty, and paid for it. Although I've already got my money's worth out of it. I know the tune would void it, but they never knew that, I knew they re flashed it because of when they worked on the transmission at the other dealership, probably they just tuned the transmission like you said, and not the engine. If that can happen
kinda thinkin out loud I guess lol, thank you again
