BLWNLT1_T/A

iTrader: (12)

Well I am working to get my car done now that I got a 2nd job to fix it. But I plan to buy the following Friday when I get paid. So that I can go ahead and get the shortblock put together.
So far this is what I have purchased so far.... (Going into a splayed main 96' Lt1 T/A)

3.480" eagle crank
5.700" Eagle Rods.
-22cc Diamond Pistons ( Ordered yesterday)

Plans for friday...
Custom turbo cam from A.I.

Melling HV oil pump with canton pick up tube (Need a part # for the "good" durable one). I know they have had a problem with weak casting so if some one can lead me to the right way. It would be greatly appreciated.

LS1 Lifters (If recommended)

Timming Set for my 96' LT1 ( If i switch to OBD1 can I do away with the CPS sensor and reluctor wheel?)

Canton Oil Pan ( Where would I tap it for turbo oil line?)

Am I missing anything? Thats all I can think of for right now....

Thanks in Advanced,
Joey

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

-Use LS7 lifters if you need new ones.
-If you switch to OBD1, you can delete the reluctor ring, but you will need the longer OBDI style crank hub. Also if you are deleting the reluctor ring, you can go ahead and install a double roller (Coyles 3146 is a popular choice). You will need to run an EWP also.
-Are you sure you need a aftermarket pan with your build?

BLWNLT1_T/A

iTrader: (12)

Man you are a great help. I am thankful for people like you on this board. I could probably get away with the stock oil pan. But with HV oil pump I dont want to risk anything. I know people say if can't happen. But what about those few that it did happen too? I don't want to be another statistic... To much money in this build. If something goes wrong I'm out of the game for sure... Then I'll have to go to the dark side and get an ls1

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Why are you using a HV pump. Why not use a std volume/std pressure pump with a GM white spring?

Another important thing I forgot to mention is that if you delete the reluctor ring AND use a OEM timing set, you will need the longer OBD1 crank hub, but if you delete the reluctor ring and use a Coyles double roller, you will be able to use the shorter OBD2 crank hub. You will have to clearance the inside of your timing cover some to fit the double roller. Like I mentioned, with the double roller you are also required to use an EWP.

BLWNLT1_T/A

iTrader: (12)

Will the std oil pump be enough for an lt1 spinning to 6,200 RPM? If so i'll go that route and use my stock oil pan.



Sweet. I just purchased the the Coyles double roller timming set you mentioned off summit. I'll wait until it comes in to see how much I will have to clearance. Then plug the water pump drive. I already have an EWP waiting to go in. On the hub I will probably go ahead and look for a keyed hub for 96-97 (short hub)

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Yeah, get a GM replacement pump with a GM white spring, or get a Melling std volume/std pressure (don't know the part number) and use the GM white spring. You should be fine up to 6200 rpm. I regular shift at 6300-6500 with stock pump and pan. No problems yet, I'll see how long the rod bolts hold up.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Shbox's recommendation from another thread:

Melling Select 10554 pump (std vol/std pressure 3/4" inlet).
GM white spring 3848911 for higher pressure.
GM pickup tube, 12550042.
GM oil pump drive gear 1103868 (if needed).

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

The part number for the LS7 lifters is (12499225) this is the GM part number.
Also Thunderracing.com has the keyed crank hubs in now. I just got mine in. When you do make your order from what i was told they do not come with the key for the crank. So if i were you i would call to make the order, since the part number for the key is not on the website, so they can send you the correct key. Or you can go to a parts store to find the one to match your application.

BLWNLT1_T/A

iTrader: (12)

Part number for white spring says it for a v6... Is that correct?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Pretty sure Shbox has his part numbers correct.