Thoughts on this rotating assy.
05-06-2009, 05:51 PM
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Thoughts on this rotating assy. Have a budget build in progress and looking for a OEM replacement rotating assy. to swap in. Any thoughts on this Eagle package?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku
05-06-2009, 06:05 PM
#2
Have a budget build in progress and looking for a OEM replacement rotating assy. to swap in. Any thoughts on this Eagle package?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku
If you are on a budget, why not use the stock crank (good to like 1000hp), recondition the rods, and get some hypereutectic pistons or some forged aluminum pistons if you plan to spray.
05-06-2009, 06:17 PM
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In the end you are going to end up with a rotating assembly that is less in quality than the stocker and will weigh more too b/c the LT1 come with light weight Mahle pistons which I also prefer to SpeedPros any day of the week.
05-06-2009, 07:04 PM
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Goals, really haven't set any goals at this point...at some point I would like to be in the 400rwh range and Possibly a head/cam swap at some point when I can afford it. Would love to have a LE2 package or AI 200cc set up. So if this kit is no better the the stock or even weaker the stock "the crankshaft mainly" what OEM replacement pistons and rods would you recommend? My stock crankshaft is actually in great condition.
05-06-2009, 07:11 PM
#6
Goals, really haven't set any goals at this point...at some point I would like to be in the 400rwh range and Possibly a head/cam swap at some point when I can afford it. Would love to have a LE2 package or AI 200cc set up. So if this kit is no better the the stock or even weaker the stock "the crankshaft mainly" what OEM replacement pistons and rods would you recommend? My stock crankshaft is actually in great condition.
Get the block bored, honed, align honed, magnafluxed, and heat tanked.
Cut/polish the crank.
Recondition the rods, use ARP rod bolts
Get some Mahle hypereutectic pistons or forged aluminum pistons
Get quality bearings and piston rings.
You can reuse your stock pump (assuming oil pressure is still strong), install a GM white springs.
You should have a nice 355 that can handle a LE/Ai heads & cam package no problem.
05-06-2009, 07:12 PM
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I can get you a site for the Mahle pistons, but if you even think you'll run N20 in the future go forged now. Also is something wrong with your stock rods? If not you can have them reconditioned and ARP bolts installed and they'll be fine.
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05-06-2009, 07:29 PM
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Take your block to a machine shop to access the condition of all of your parts.
Get the block bored, honed, align honed, magnafluxed, and heat tanked.
Cut/polish the crank.
Recondition the rods, use ARP rod bolts
Get some Mahle hypereutectic pistons or forged aluminum pistons
Get quality bearings and piston rings.
You can reuse your stock pump (assuming oil pressure is still strong), install a GM white springs.
You should have a nice 355 that can handle a LE/Ai heads & cam package no problem.
Get the block bored, honed, align honed, magnafluxed, and heat tanked.
Cut/polish the crank.
Recondition the rods, use ARP rod bolts
Get some Mahle hypereutectic pistons or forged aluminum pistons
Get quality bearings and piston rings.
You can reuse your stock pump (assuming oil pressure is still strong), install a GM white springs.
You should have a nice 355 that can handle a LE/Ai heads & cam package no problem.
05-06-2009, 07:34 PM
#11
Yeah that's all well and good but that also cost a lot more money. Plenty of guys on here run H/C set ups on the stock bottom end with no problems. I am ONLY looking for some OEM replacement pistons, main bearings, cam bearings etc.. My crankshaft is in good shape, the rods are fine too 'I just figured if there was another OEM replacement that was a little better then I would spend the extra cash and get some.
Once you are there, you might as well replace the piston rings, to do that you NEED a hone on the cylinder walls. See where I'm going with this.
What makes you think you need a replacement rotating assembly or a rebuild anyway?
05-06-2009, 07:43 PM
#12
Most cheap pistons are going to be heavy with thick parasitic rings that will wear the bore more. Good pistons will cost most of what that kit costs.
When replacing pistons you need to have it rebalanced $160 minimum.
If you do any machining to anything new rod bolts would be a good idea especiallty if putting in heavier pistons, again $160 minimum on that too.
Basically if you want to replace pistons but a $600 set of Mahle(good pistons not cheap heavy crappy ring stuff) then spend at least $320 rebuilding the rods and rebalancing, can easily cost more depending on labor rate or what it takes to balance.
The stock assembly id pretty good and it is not cheap to improve upon.
When replacing pistons you need to have it rebalanced $160 minimum.
If you do any machining to anything new rod bolts would be a good idea especiallty if putting in heavier pistons, again $160 minimum on that too.
Basically if you want to replace pistons but a $600 set of Mahle(good pistons not cheap heavy crappy ring stuff) then spend at least $320 rebuilding the rods and rebalancing, can easily cost more depending on labor rate or what it takes to balance.
The stock assembly id pretty good and it is not cheap to improve upon.
05-06-2009, 08:02 PM
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You cannot just replace your bearings and throw it all back together. You NEED to get the block aligned honed, the rods reconditioned, and the crank polished.
Once you are there, you might as well replace the piston rings, to do that you NEED a hone on the cylinder walls. See where I'm going with this.
What makes you think you need a replacement rotating assembly or a rebuild anyway?
Once you are there, you might as well replace the piston rings, to do that you NEED a hone on the cylinder walls. See where I'm going with this.
What makes you think you need a replacement rotating assembly or a rebuild anyway?
Maybe I should have specified that I realize this needs to be done and the guy helping is going to take care of all this.
Most cheap pistons are going to be heavy with thick parasitic rings that will wear the bore more. Good pistons will cost most of what that kit costs.
When replacing pistons you need to have it rebalanced $160 minimum.
If you do any machining to anything new rod bolts would be a good idea especiallty if putting in heavier pistons, again $160 minimum on that too.
Basically if you want to replace pistons but a $600 set of Mahle(good pistons not cheap heavy crappy ring stuff) then spend at least $320 rebuilding the rods and rebalancing, can easily cost more depending on labor rate or what it takes to balance.
The stock assembly id pretty good and it is not cheap to improve upon.
When replacing pistons you need to have it rebalanced $160 minimum.
If you do any machining to anything new rod bolts would be a good idea especiallty if putting in heavier pistons, again $160 minimum on that too.
Basically if you want to replace pistons but a $600 set of Mahle(good pistons not cheap heavy crappy ring stuff) then spend at least $320 rebuilding the rods and rebalancing, can easily cost more depending on labor rate or what it takes to balance.
The stock assembly id pretty good and it is not cheap to improve upon.
05-06-2009, 08:27 PM
#14
What is "a bottom end block w/ 38k"
Does that mean just a block and you need rotating parts??
There are parts out there, but they are not a cheap POS kit like what you listed.
If you want a basically stock motor buy a stock motor.
The kit you are looking at has several pieces that are weaker than stock some that are no better, I would put money on it making LESS power than a junkyard shortblock.
Does that mean just a block and you need rotating parts??
There are parts out there, but they are not a cheap POS kit like what you listed.
If you want a basically stock motor buy a stock motor.
The kit you are looking at has several pieces that are weaker than stock some that are no better, I would put money on it making LESS power than a junkyard shortblock.
05-06-2009, 09:21 PM
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Most cheap pistons are going to be heavy with thick parasitic rings that will wear the bore more. Good pistons will cost most of what that kit costs.
When replacing pistons you need to have it rebalanced $160 minimum.
If you do any machining to anything new rod bolts would be a good idea especiallty if putting in heavier pistons, again $160 minimum on that too.
Basically if you want to replace pistons but a $600 set of Mahle(good pistons not cheap heavy crappy ring stuff) then spend at least $320 rebuilding the rods and rebalancing, can easily cost more depending on labor rate or what it takes to balance.
The stock assembly id pretty good and it is not cheap to improve upon.
When replacing pistons you need to have it rebalanced $160 minimum.
If you do any machining to anything new rod bolts would be a good idea especiallty if putting in heavier pistons, again $160 minimum on that too.
Basically if you want to replace pistons but a $600 set of Mahle(good pistons not cheap heavy crappy ring stuff) then spend at least $320 rebuilding the rods and rebalancing, can easily cost more depending on labor rate or what it takes to balance.
The stock assembly id pretty good and it is not cheap to improve upon.
05-06-2009, 10:02 PM
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IMO if you are going to shell the cash to buy new rod bolts and resize the rods, it would be a better idea to shell the extra cash and replace the rods. as far as pistons go, many people knock on speed pro pistons, but i have seen some VERY fast cars run gobs of nitrous to them and they live for a long time (not saying they are light, nor would i personally run them). to the OP, i would personally buy a decent set of pistons (Mahle, SRP) and buy a decent set of rods, reuse the stock crank and do a full machine job on the motor. don't skimp by, i PROMISE you will regret it in the long run. if you are looking into a 200cc top end, you want to be able to spin that motor to where it shines and not second guess your bottom end 
05-06-2009, 10:17 PM
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What is "a bottom end block w/ 38k"
Does that mean just a block and you need rotating parts??
There are parts out there, but they are not a cheap POS kit like what you listed.
If you want a basically stock motor buy a stock motor.
The kit you are looking at has several pieces that are weaker than stock some that are no better, I would put money on it making LESS power than a junkyard shortblock.
Does that mean just a block and you need rotating parts??
There are parts out there, but they are not a cheap POS kit like what you listed.
If you want a basically stock motor buy a stock motor.
The kit you are looking at has several pieces that are weaker than stock some that are no better, I would put money on it making LESS power than a junkyard shortblock.
Going to use the stock crank and a LT1 crate motor is actually a lot more then that $650 kit. Try another $1000 + from what I have seen for a new crate motor.