383 Build Cost
05-12-2009, 11:46 PM
#1
383 Build Cost Hey guys
On the way home from work yesterday morning I did the good old 2-1 WOT shift, instead of 2-3. As soon as I put it in 1st gear I realised what I did and pulled the clutch out immediately. The car reved like an F1 car and the tires skidded, but other than that, the car didnt even hiccup. I figured that I was alright, but pulled over to see if I could find any damage in the oil. I noticed a few small pieces of metal on the dipstick. I decided just to limp the car home, and see what I found after a good days sleep.
This afternoon I woke up early before work so I could have time to drain the oil and see how bad it was. There was a decent amount of metal on the drain plug, and when I flushed the engine there was a bit more metal. This has me pretty worried a valve kissed a piston. I am running an MS3 cam.
I figure while the motor is torn apart looking for damage, I might as well have the motor rebuilt.
I am working a lot of hours at work right now, and this car is my DD. I dont really have the time to pull the motor out, and do all the work because I know the car would be sitting for a long time before I got done with it.
I hate it when people post these kinds of questions on here, because they are very broad, but I dont want to get had. I want to take my car to a sponsor shop, and get the motor rebuilt, and put a stroker kit in it. How much could I expect to spend in labor as well as parts for a shop to do this? This would be using my whole top end assuming it is still in useable contition.
I dont want a bottom of the line rotating assembly, but I dont need the best either. I am going to assume I could get a decent rotating assembly for ~2k with the research I have done.
Thanks guys.
On the way home from work yesterday morning I did the good old 2-1 WOT shift, instead of 2-3. As soon as I put it in 1st gear I realised what I did and pulled the clutch out immediately. The car reved like an F1 car and the tires skidded, but other than that, the car didnt even hiccup. I figured that I was alright, but pulled over to see if I could find any damage in the oil. I noticed a few small pieces of metal on the dipstick. I decided just to limp the car home, and see what I found after a good days sleep.
This afternoon I woke up early before work so I could have time to drain the oil and see how bad it was. There was a decent amount of metal on the drain plug, and when I flushed the engine there was a bit more metal. This has me pretty worried a valve kissed a piston. I am running an MS3 cam.
I figure while the motor is torn apart looking for damage, I might as well have the motor rebuilt.
I am working a lot of hours at work right now, and this car is my DD. I dont really have the time to pull the motor out, and do all the work because I know the car would be sitting for a long time before I got done with it.
I hate it when people post these kinds of questions on here, because they are very broad, but I dont want to get had. I want to take my car to a sponsor shop, and get the motor rebuilt, and put a stroker kit in it. How much could I expect to spend in labor as well as parts for a shop to do this? This would be using my whole top end assuming it is still in useable contition.
I dont want a bottom of the line rotating assembly, but I dont need the best either. I am going to assume I could get a decent rotating assembly for ~2k with the research I have done.
Thanks guys.
05-13-2009, 10:10 AM
#2
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If a valve kissed a piston, you would not see it in the oil. Unless it kissed it REALLY hard and the piston broke, but your engine would not run if that was the case. I fear something more serious has happened.
On a side note, don't waste your money on a 383. I did, and I regret it. Spend the extra moolah and get a 402.
On a side note, don't waste your money on a 383. I did, and I regret it. Spend the extra moolah and get a 402.
05-13-2009, 11:36 AM
#3
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Yea im in the process of finishing up my 00 TA. My 383 cost over like 12 grand. 383 Stroker Callies Compstar rotate. Mahle pistons. FAST 92 MM intake 92 MM PTM throttle body, stage one head job, full comp valvetrain except for extreme horsepower's custom grind cam, Pacesetter LTs with ory, 42 lb injectors, valve cover spacers, and a thousand into the tranny and clutch... it adds up way to quick...
05-13-2009, 02:54 PM
#5
If a valve kissed a piston, you would not see it in the oil. Unless it kissed it REALLY hard and the piston broke, but your engine would not run if that was the case. I fear something more serious has happened.
On a side note, don't waste your money on a 383. I did, and I regret it. Spend the extra moolah and get a 402.
On a side note, don't waste your money on a 383. I did, and I regret it. Spend the extra moolah and get a 402.
On a side note, I don't exactly have the money to build a 402 right now. I just bought a house... My plan was to buy a iron block, and start building up a 408 in my garage, slowly but surely.
Could I get something budget built for ~5k, or am I just dreaming? This would be using my LS6 intake, MS3, pushrods, springs, and block...
The thing that sucks is I don't have the time to do this myself, and I am going to be spending ALOT in labor to pay someone else to do it.
If worst comes to worst, I will just buy a used low mileage long block, and put the cam in that. I can start putting a 408 together over the next 6 months.
05-13-2009, 03:10 PM
#6
scat rotating assy is going to run 1899.95
callies will run 2199.95
balance add 200
nitrous/boost rings add $100
alternately
a 383 short block will be
4095.00
that is with scat setup and flat tops....
also we have the high compression
iron 402.....it is 3895.00
if you want callies add $300 (200 for crank 100 for rods) to the short block prices and same add $100 for nitrous/boost rings
callies will run 2199.95
balance add 200
nitrous/boost rings add $100
alternately
a 383 short block will be
4095.00
that is with scat setup and flat tops....
also we have the high compression
iron 402.....it is 3895.00
if you want callies add $300 (200 for crank 100 for rods) to the short block prices and same add $100 for nitrous/boost rings
05-13-2009, 03:35 PM
#7
scat rotating assy is going to run 1899.95
callies will run 2199.95
balance add 200
nitrous/boost rings add $100
alternately
a 383 short block will be
4095.00
that is with scat setup and flat tops....
also we have the high compression
iron 402.....it is 3895.00
if you want callies add $300 (200 for crank 100 for rods) to the short block prices and same add $100 for nitrous/boost rings
callies will run 2199.95
balance add 200
nitrous/boost rings add $100
alternately
a 383 short block will be
4095.00
that is with scat setup and flat tops....
also we have the high compression
iron 402.....it is 3895.00
if you want callies add $300 (200 for crank 100 for rods) to the short block prices and same add $100 for nitrous/boost rings
Trending Topics
05-13-2009, 05:01 PM
#9
Wow, that is kind of uncalled for really. Im sorry we do not sell parts for your porsche or turbo busa. There is a reason we have been in business for longer than most of the companies out there. If you do not like our product, you still have a right to say so, but to call it junk is another story.
In the end, our product will speak for itself....there is no need to address your personal attack with any sort of inflamatory remark, just be glad i am even addressing you at all.
OP:
the machine shop will charge any type of varying rate really. it is very hard to get a grasp on any region or shop just because they all charge a different rate. i would do this. ask some of the sponsors that are closer to you who they would recommend. that way you can get a good idea on what a shop that is used to doing the LS engines will charge. normally this would consist of clean up on the cyl walls, stroker clearance, deck on the block and any type of other machining recommended. then the rest of the gaskets and fasteners plus other consumables and cost of labor for R&R...it adds up fairly quick, which is why i also showed you a quote for a short block...actually 2.
good luck
In the end, our product will speak for itself....there is no need to address your personal attack with any sort of inflamatory remark, just be glad i am even addressing you at all.
OP:
the machine shop will charge any type of varying rate really. it is very hard to get a grasp on any region or shop just because they all charge a different rate. i would do this. ask some of the sponsors that are closer to you who they would recommend. that way you can get a good idea on what a shop that is used to doing the LS engines will charge. normally this would consist of clean up on the cyl walls, stroker clearance, deck on the block and any type of other machining recommended. then the rest of the gaskets and fasteners plus other consumables and cost of labor for R&R...it adds up fairly quick, which is why i also showed you a quote for a short block...actually 2.
good luck
05-13-2009, 05:33 PM
#10
Wow, that is kind of uncalled for really. Im sorry we do not sell parts for your porsche or turbo busa. There is a reason we have been in business for longer than most of the companies out there. If you do not like our product, you still have a right to say so, but to call it junk is another story.
In the end, our product will speak for itself....there is no need to address your personal attack with any sort of inflamatory remark, just be glad i am even addressing you at all.
OP:
the machine shop will charge any type of varying rate really. it is very hard to get a grasp on any region or shop just because they all charge a different rate. i would do this. ask some of the sponsors that are closer to you who they would recommend. that way you can get a good idea on what a shop that is used to doing the LS engines will charge. normally this would consist of clean up on the cyl walls, stroker clearance, deck on the block and any type of other machining recommended. then the rest of the gaskets and fasteners plus other consumables and cost of labor for R&R...it adds up fairly quick, which is why i also showed you a quote for a short block...actually 2.
good luck
In the end, our product will speak for itself....there is no need to address your personal attack with any sort of inflamatory remark, just be glad i am even addressing you at all.
OP:
the machine shop will charge any type of varying rate really. it is very hard to get a grasp on any region or shop just because they all charge a different rate. i would do this. ask some of the sponsors that are closer to you who they would recommend. that way you can get a good idea on what a shop that is used to doing the LS engines will charge. normally this would consist of clean up on the cyl walls, stroker clearance, deck on the block and any type of other machining recommended. then the rest of the gaskets and fasteners plus other consumables and cost of labor for R&R...it adds up fairly quick, which is why i also showed you a quote for a short block...actually 2.
good luck
The pricing you gave on the rotating assemblies looks to be a pretty fair price compared to other places I have been looking at. We may be doing some business soon.
05-13-2009, 05:36 PM
#11
well....ideally you would be able to use your old block and get it done. but sometimes that is not the case and plans change. i hope you can reuse your old assembly and save some $$$ and use it towards other things....heck i wish i could do that too!!!
if you need anything else, just let me know.
if you need anything else, just let me know.
05-13-2009, 05:40 PM
#12
We deal with Scoggin on a fairly regular basis. Nothing about them is junk.
Great customer service, great parts, and great prices.
I know no one asked, but since they were slammed for no reason I thought I would give my 2 cents.
Great customer service, great parts, and great prices.
I know no one asked, but since they were slammed for no reason I thought I would give my 2 cents.
05-13-2009, 06:57 PM
#15
FormerVendor
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Nothing but good things to say about Scoggin Dickey. I've used shortblocks from them in various builds with great results and when I did have an issue, they immediately took care of it no questions asked (defective engine block from GM...)
Shane
Shane
05-13-2009, 07:38 PM
#17
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If a valve kissed a piston, you would not see it in the oil. Unless it kissed it REALLY hard and the piston broke, but your engine would not run if that was the case. I fear something more serious has happened.
On a side note, don't waste your money on a 383. I did, and I regret it. Spend the extra moolah and get a 402.
On a side note, don't waste your money on a 383. I did, and I regret it. Spend the extra moolah and get a 402.
05-13-2009, 08:43 PM
#18
I kinda agree. I know a 383 is 25 cubes short of a 408 but if that nets 10 hp i would be surprised. I think the biggest thing about having a 408 is the bigger bore so you can use the rectangle port heads. but if your short on money and want to reuse your block you can't go wrong with a 383. Alot of people use them and make big power with them.
05-13-2009, 09:10 PM
#19
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My buddy built his motor for about 4 grand. He did everything but the machine work. Keep in mind he's running a 347 so add a thousand for the crank, and eagle rods that he got on sale, so add a couple hundred for upgrading those.
5K sounds like a reasonable number for a good stout 383 short block. Probably cheaper to buy one, but some people are willing to spend the extra money to build it themselves.
5K sounds like a reasonable number for a good stout 383 short block. Probably cheaper to buy one, but some people are willing to spend the extra money to build it themselves.
