Stereo & Electronics - Anybody able to get some serious bass from a stealth box?

Hey guys,

I've had a Rockford Fosgate punch stage 1 (4OHM) bridged to a 2 channel 425W amp for some time now. To be honest, the sub really isn't that good. It compliments the music nicely, but it's not enough to be heard from outside the car. So i'm wondering, is the box, the sub, or both of them the problem.

I think I'm going to swap the Punch out for a 10" Type-R and put it in the stealth box, but my friend who worked at a stereo shop for years is telling me I have to put the type-r in a bazooka tube that he has, 'cause in his dad's car it hits as loud as his 12's.

I want mirror shaking bass, at least bass that will hit HARD. Should I get a new sub and use the stealth enclosure, the bazooka tube, or do I need more than one sub.

Thanks guys

I had a Fi Q12 (12", obviously) in a stealthbox from KEE Audio and it did damn well for what it was.

Type-R is not too bad, but don't get one. They are not all THAT "serious". A Fi Q10 (and MANY other subs that I could name-let me know if you're curious-but Q10/Q12 are IMO the best for our stealthboxes) will kick the R's ass ANY DAY.

I had the current setup in the below link using the basic stealthbox but eventually had a custom one done which gives the sub almost a cubic foot. It has always hit hard but now it will misalign my rearview mirror on some notes. I'm pushing almost a thousand watts to the sub though. Type R won't do what I explained.

http://www.carstereo.com/installs/photo_gallery_album.cfm?home=yes&photoid=18011&galleryid=753

Spending some money on a quality sub and having enough power will make all the difference. I had JL and replaced those with some Image Dynamics and they are awesome. I would look at something like Image Dynamics. They are quality subs and designed to work in smaller enclosures such as a stealth box. It sounds like you hae enough power from your amp assuming it is a quality amp and pushing what the manufacturere claims.

ive got the JL steathbox (10w3) with an alpine 450w amp and it shakes the rear view mirror and the sode mirrors. the amp is pretty important when it comes to this stuff.
it hits pretty hard compared to my friends 12's.

Spending some money on a quality sub and having enough power will make all the difference. I had JL and replaced those with some Image Dynamics and they are awesome. I would look at something like Image Dynamics. They are quality subs and designed to work in smaller enclosures such as a stealth box. It sounds like you hae enough power from your amp assuming it is a quality amp and pushing what the manufacturere claims.

True. One of the reasons I picked the Diamond Audio sub and amp. Ended up being a great combo.

Trying to stuff a huge sub in a small box will end up sounding worse.

Here are the specs for my sub amp:

* RMS Power Range : 85 Watts
* Number Of Channels: 2
* Maximum Power: 425 Watts
* Built In Crossovers: Yes
* Channel Separation: Yes

# CEA Dynamic Power (all channels): 425 Watts (212.5 x 2)
# CEA RMS Power Per Channel @ 4 ohm: 85 Watts x 2
# Side mounted preamp controls
# Continuously variable crossover from 40 ~ 250Hz

Is the amp strong enough or is it a piece of crap? lol.

I really don't know what everything means, I know how to hook everything up correctly though. So should I stick with the stealth box or would the bazooka tube hit harder?

Could I get any recommendations on a sub? And what would be the best, Dual 2OHM , 4OHM etc etc

It's a piece of crap.

if your getting a type-r a new amp would be a MUST, type-r's are very power hungry get something like 600rms at least.

and no a bazooka tube wouldn't do shit

Alright, so I need a new amp, and a bazooka tube is a piece of shit?

Edit: Wow does that say 85W RMS? Wtf?

RF Punch Stage 1 is not the best sub on the market. I think that it only handles about 250 Watts RMS. There is a rule of thumb, if your speaker amp is outputting 150w of power, then your sub should be doing at least 300w. That is because your high frequencies won't need as much power to sound loud as much as your lower frequencies.

That being said, you will need to look at your sub amp, and make sure not only the volume is up, but the filter is set at an appropriate level. make sure you really don't have too many higher frequencies going to your sub ( you will know when you can make out the words the artist says). You want to get it where the sub is capturing the bass that the speakers left off at.

Also, check your bass boost and make sure it is up. I would also see your head unit, and see if the bass is up, as well as check if there is a separate sub control on it.

Now also remember that your box will also make a difference. If you go with a sealed box, like the stealth box are, they will sound tighter, but they will need more power through them. If your box is ported, The bass will be a little looser, but there is a lot of air running through them, and it will sound louder. This is a popular choice with people that listens to Hip-Hop and electronica-type music. There is also the bandpass box, which includes a sealed and ported elements that will make it THUMP!

Your amp should try to get within the subs' operating range. Example if your sub RMS rating is between 100-300w, then you want a amp to match that, especially the higher range. Your amp can even exceed the sub power rating, but make sure you set the amp appropriately. You will most likely never use the full range of the amp nor sub (if that was to happen, you will be deaf in a matter or weeks). Also the higher the amp output wattage, the less likely your sub will distort or clip at higher volumes.

Also look for a sub with a high sensitivity rating. Around 83 and up should be good. If you get like a Alpine Type-R, it can handle a lot of power, but won't hit without a lot of power being thrown into it. The Sony XS series subs will be more efficient at a lower range because of the higher sensitivity rating.

I hope that makes some sense.

Almost forgot, get Dynamat. It makes a world of difference.

Thanks man, a lot of good info there. Seems like I'm gonna need a new amp and a new sub.. and some money. So, basically, if I get a 10" Type R which has a 200-500W power range, to be safe I should have a 500W RMS amp as well? Sounds about right.

One question I do have though, is what is everything about impedance (OHMs) Is one kind better than the other? Dual 4OHM, Dual 2OHM, 4OHM etc. etc. I understand they are wired up in different ways but is one better than another depending on their application and such. I'm just looking to run one hard thumping 10", so is one better for that application?

Oh yeah, also, my amp has "HPF, FULL, and LPF" settings, i'm guessing High Pass Filter? Idk what the hell that even means. And I probably want a mono channel amp if it's just for the sub right?

Thanks everyone!

Bazooka ANYTHING sucks. And get Raammat or Second Skin over Dynamat - the former is cheaper and better than Dynamat (worse than Xtreme) and the second is not cheap but is the best you can get.

HPF-high pass filter, it lets the highs through. FULL-lets all sound through. LPF-low pass filter, lets all the lows through, which would be your subs. so you def want it set on LPF. you would use HPF if you had this amp powering your cab speakers. This could also make a big difference if you have had it set on the wrong thing this whole time. Your sub will also soudn liek ass if the gain and freq arent adjusted properly.

i have two P2 fosgate subs in a sealed box being pushed by a fosgate amp. My subs hit very hard, certain notes hit and i cant see out of any of my mirrors.

i have two P2 fosgate subs in a sealed box being pushed by a fosgate amp. My subs hit very hard, certain notes hit and i cant see out of any of my mirrors.

Yeah well my amp is the next problem haha. The sub is definitely on LPF because I remember setting it to HPF and it barely got any sound out of it, so I switched it to the other one. The only other thing is, I didn't know how to set the frequencies and stuff, so idk where those are at. The level is a little past the middle. Other than that, Idk how to set that other stuff up.

Thanks man, a lot of good info there. Seems like I'm gonna need a new amp and a new sub.. and some money. So, basically, if I get a 10" Type R which has a 200-500W power range, to be safe I should have a 500W RMS amp as well? Sounds about right.

One question I do have though, is what is everything about impedance (OHMs) Is one kind better than the other? Dual 4OHM, Dual 2OHM, 4OHM etc. etc. I understand they are wired up in different ways but is one better than another depending on their application and such. I'm just looking to run one hard thumping 10", so is one better for that application?

Oh yeah, also, my amp has "HPF, FULL, and LPF" settings, i'm guessing High Pass Filter? Idk what the hell that even means. And I probably want a mono channel amp if it's just for the sub right?

Thanks everyone!

its never a bad idea to get a amp a little more powerful than your speakers rating so you have 'headroom'

and it depends on how low of an impedance your amp is stable to, if its 1ohm stable than you would want a dual 2ohm sub hooked up like this http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp?submitted=true&woofer_qty=1&woofer_imp=3 if its 2 ohm stable than you would want a sub thats dual 4ohm hooked it up like this http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp?submitted=true&woofer_qty=1&woofer_imp=4 and so on

and ya just get a mono amp

also keep in mind you are only gonna get so much out of a single sealed low end 10" you may want to end up going with a passenger side stealth box also then you would have twice the cone area.

80Hz is a typical good crossover frequency for a subwoofer. Of course, what you should use varies from setup to setup, but 80Hz is standard. Don't go above 100Hz for sure. I've heard people that have their subwoofers set so that you can hear voice from them. Come on. That's horrible.

both guys above are right on. and a 2nd sub is a must in my oppinion. and most places will cut youa deal on teh 2nd sub anyway. plus im anal about things being symetrical, if i only had one sub it would drive me nuts.

It's a piece of crap.

LOL!!! Don't sugar coat it or anything. JK!


"Anybody able to get some serious bass from a stealth box?"

I've had good success over the years with several combinations of subs in stealth enclosures. One quality 10" sub will do well for you and be money well spent doing it right the first time. My best successes with these were with RE Audio SE10 D4 (wired @ 2ohms) and with a CDT QES-1020 D4 (wired @ 2ohms). These were both quite capable of hitting extremely hard for a single 10" subwoofer. And yes, the mirrors were shaking alot.
As Dragonrage mentioned an FiQ10 would also be an excellent choice as they are very nice subs.
The Fosgate subs have really not impressed me over the past several years. There amps IMO are ok but I wouldn't use there subs personally. You have to take into consideration after hearing subs like those mentioned earlier, something like a Kicker CVR, Fosgate P anything, and even an Alpine Type-R are not going to compare. I personally like the Type-R ok but compared to others in overall performance you can't beat them.
Another good sub manufacturer I just got is JBL/Harmon Kardon. They are not an FiQ series but still nice for the money. The Power Series P1022 10" sub is a good sub for the money as is the RE Audio SE10 and would still fit and operate in a stealth enclosure.

Kee knows his stuff, and anything he recomends id take has good stuff. I heard your car at g12 last year Ian, and id love to have your sub setup, sounded amazing. I enjoy my fosgate stuff for now, though. i got both subs, in a box with the amp for 100 bucks. Person said one of the subs was blown, and the amp didnt work. i bought it and sure enough, they had everything wired wrong and tuned wrong. i rewired it and installed it later that day, and they have been hitting great ever since.

One 8" Kicker Square in a vented box will rock it out... that's what I got. (w/ $100 alpine v12 amp)

NO NEED FOR 2 SUBS =) These squares get LOW LOW and move A LOT of air.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j145/blee0303/S5032332Medium.jpg

Don't mind my haggered 6x9's. They came with in the car when I got it. =(

no need for 2 subs =)

symmetry!!! :D

b.lee: Actually, they don't move crap. They use very outdated motors with absolute s*** for Xmax. A Fi Q12 will FAR outperform a 12" L7 in displacement AND sound quality. Same @ 10". 8" subwoofers are not as common.

Hey KEE, you have a PM man. Didn't want to whore this thread.

Hey guys, I found this amp on ebay. What do you think of it? Looks pretty good..

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MSCt61icYtn/p_500MRPM850/Alpine-MRP-M850.html

It's fine. Look up the price of a Kenwood KAC-9103d or KAC-9104d and if those are cheaper then get that instead. If the Alpine is cheaper then get it.

It's fine. Look up the price of a Kenwood KAC-9103d or KAC-9104d and if those are cheaper then get that instead. If the Alpine is cheaper then get it.

Thanks Dragon. I'll look those up. one more question, the amps say, for example, 800W @ 2ohm and 500W @ 4ohm .. is that relation to the sub or how you wire it to the amp? Sorry, I'm not a genius at stereo but I know a lot more now than I did before.

That depends on the subwoofer(s) and, if there are multiple voice coils/subwoofers, then how they are wired.

If you got a Fi Q10/Q12, for example, the dual 4 ohm version would be better for those Kenwood amps. And that Alpine, too, it seems.

I'm most likely getting the Alpine amp as I'm currently the highest bidder and (hopefully) can keep it that way haha. I'm interested in the KE Audio sub that Kee spoke of as well. So for this alpine amp, would a Dual 4OHM voice coil Sub be ideal? And then it would have to be wired like this, I am guessing, since it looks like this would be running @ 2ohm which this amp is most powerful at. Thanks for all your help so far, it's great to finally figure all of this out.

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg

if the amp is 2ohm stable than yes, and RE is a very good brand you would be happy with an RE SE im sure GREAT SQ

another good chioce would be a FI SSD series if you have the power https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154a0cccbb665fe/shopdata/0050_Speakers/0040_SSD/product_overview.shopscript you can even get a red dust cap so it will match your car:D

another good chioce would be a FI SSD series if you have the power https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=154a0cccbb665fe/shopdata/0050_Speakers/0040_SSD/product_overview.shopscript you can even get a red dust cap so it will match your car:D

Damn that looks pretty nice too. And holy crap 18"? :eek: The amp I'm bidding on is 800W RMS so I don't know how well it would work with the SSD10.

So you guys definitely think that the FI's and RE Audio's way outperform the Type-R and others that are similar? I guess it's just because the appearance of the type-r is so nice looking :eyes:

Damn that looks pretty nice too. And holy crap 18"? :eek: The amp I'm bidding on is 800W RMS so I don't know how well it would work with the SSD10.

So you guys definitely think that the FI's and RE Audio's way outperform the Type-R and others that are similar? I guess it's just because the appearance of the type-r is so nice looking :eyes:

yes it would def outperform a type-r especially in SQ, and 18 isnt anything there was talk about a 22 yes 22" they were messing with.

Ive gotta FI Q10 sub in my stealth box along with an older model Rockford Fosgate 1000Watt amp. I think that bumps nicely, certain songs that have some deep bass will have the mirror's shake a bit and it also rattles the hatch a bit. Not to the point where you can hear it rattling when i drive by you but standing next to it. You hear it...

I love it lol used to have 2" 12" Rockford Fosgate P2's back there with the same amp and that was rattling all kinds of shit lol Ended up blowing those subs, and changed to this setup.

I had a Q12 in a stealthbox driven by a JL 500/5 (the subwoofer section is rated 250W, but really does more like 300-350) and it shook the whole car easily enough if the song had bass. You couldn't hear it from way down the street, but my roommate commented on it when I pulled in the first time after I removed it all (to sell the car). "Wow, I just saw something amazing. You pulled into the driveway and your sound wasn't ridiculously loud."

Just bought an Autotek 1500W mono amplifier. The Alpine one sold for $230.. IMO, I got a much better one for $160 shipped, brand new.

Next up, the sub. I'm pretty sure I got all the info I needed, thanks for all your help guys.

NP. Also make sure you have a dual-amp wiring kit for your sub. Go with at least 100amp MAXI fuse, 4 gauge wire from the battery, to a distribution block (from the block to the amp can be 8 gauge since you wont be making a long run). There is a screw by the trunk release under the carpeting. Good place for a ground wire to go. For speaker wiring, go about a 16 gauge for the speakers, 12 for the sub. If you can, get a cap. My headlights never dim with that thing.

Check the specs on that amp. You may want a capacitor to save your alternator / battery.

No, you may want an upgraded alternator to actually make the power it might need. Forget a capacitor. Forget a second battery unless you want the system to run with the car off.

So I've been doing a lot of research on the SE series sub from RE and I'm gonna end up going with two 10"s for the stealth boxes I am going to have on each side. My question is, what amp should I be looking around for that is going to make these things sound hella nice. I'm looking to spend around 300 bones. Also, should I go with the 4 ohm or 2 ohm version of the subs?

Depends on the amp you get. I'd say US Amps XT4000d amp and go for 2 dual 4-ohm SE10s. Put all the voice coils in parallel for 1 ohm. Enjoy 1500WRMS from your amplifier. I would recommend 2 gauge wire. I'd get it from the site "weldingsupply" - it ain't as pretty, but it's cheap and it's really the gauge they say it is (instead of a thick insulation with hardly any copper)

You'll need an upgraded alternator if you use that setup to its maximum. And if you run the audio with the car off, turn off the subwoofers or keep it low. If you don't want to upgrade your alternator then there's little reason to even get 2 subwoofers.

By the way, US Amps owns RE Audio. They're good amps - I am not recommending them because of their "relationship."

If you buy on Ebay, look up the live.com cashback deal. I think it's 8 or 10% at the moment.

Yup I already have the dist. block and all the wiring already set up since I already have two amp's and a sub in the back. The current amp and sub just suck! This new amp is like 20" long so I'm probably gonna have to drill some new holes and stuff cause from what I measured it's JUST going to fit.

Sooo.. capacitor or what? It's gonna suck if I need a new alternator lol.

1badWS6, dragonrage is spot on with the info he just gave you. If you get dual 4OHM voice coil subs and run them parallel @ 1OHM, you'll get all the power outta the amp. Make sure you find an amp that is capable of being run at 1OHM though, it'll usually say "1OHM Stable: Yes/No." From what I just "experienced," find an amp that is a little over your total subwoofer RMS wattage, that way (like earlier stated) you have some "breathing room."

Dragon, correct me if I'm wrong but: Lets say you get two subs, their RMS range is 450-600 .. You'd probably want something that's over 1200W RMS, well over that. The RE Audio 10" were what, 600-1200W? You're gonna need a big amp, man!

Capacitors may help if your alternator is a "little" too small. But if you're running 1500WRMS, you're going to need a new alternator. 200A minimum.

P.S. I am not doing well keeping track of different people asking stuff in this thread, so you all will have to figure out who I'm talking to.

Capacitors may help if your alternator is a "little" too small. But if you're running 1500WRMS, you're going to need a new alternator. 200A minimum.

It's gonna be @ 2OHM which is 900W RMS, and that's in a month when I get my sub. Until now It's gonna be 4OHM at I think 500W it was. I'm gonna end up blowing up my Rockford Punch..

900WRMS... Well, depending on how you do your listening, you MIGHT be OK with the stock alternator. But if you're pushing it, I'd recommend a new one even for that. It could probably get away with a 160A. Try it first. You can try a capacitor if you need to. I don't expect a capacitor to help in most cases, though.

Hell, my JL 500/5 (underrated, but still) could have used one. But I don't think my alternator was that good, anyway.

Depends on the amp you get. I'd say US Amps XT4000d amp and go for 2 dual 4-ohm SE10s. Put all the voice coils in parallel for 1 ohm. Enjoy 1500WRMS from your amplifier. I would recommend 2 gauge wire. I'd get it from the site "weldingsupply" - it ain't as pretty, but it's cheap and it's really the gauge they say it is (instead of a thick insulation with hardly any copper)

You'll need an upgraded alternator if you use that setup to its maximum. And if you run the audio with the car off, turn off the subwoofers or keep it low. If you don't want to upgrade your alternator then there's little reason to even get 2 subwoofers.

By the way, US Amps owns RE Audio. They're good amps - I am not recommending them because of their "relationship."

If you buy on Ebay, look up the live.com cashback deal. I think it's 8 or 10% at the moment.

i dont think i would get that, i remember hearing that the lower end US amps were overrated n fact it was the owner that said that and that it was OK because other companies did it. they make good stuff just stay away from the XT series

Eh, XT isn't that bad. MD2D is better, but it's not twice as good. I'd certainly recommend the MD2D if the guy wants to spend that kind of money, though. I had an MD2D a while ago. That thing was a monster.

Capacitors may help if your alternator is a "little" too small. But if you're running 1500WRMS, you're going to need a new alternator. 200A minimum.

P.S. I am not doing well keeping track of different people asking stuff in this thread, so you all will have to figure out who I'm talking to.

It also depends on how efficient the amps are and the battery. I'm pushing almost 1500 watts (rms) with my system. Went with an Excessive Amperage 200 amp alternator. After a whole bunch of trouble (underdrive pulleys cause issues) and then being ripped off I went back to a rebuilt stock one and I've been fine. I crank my music quite often and even play it with the car off. No issues.

The yellow top also helps.

Never, ever use an underdrive pulley.

^ Agreed! No Underdrive pulleys if you are using a high powered stereo system. And Optima Yellow Top will be good also. That is one of my future purchases.

I got an Optima red top in my car. But, any suggestions for an amp in the 300 dollar range? I wouldn't necessarily say that I'm going to push them to the max, I just want to get some serious bass out of them, that they are capable of. Which I know they are/will be. So any suggestions for a new amp can help.

I still say the XT4000d. If you want to go better, you can get the MD2D. It's like $350 on Ebay. You can get 8-10% off with the cashback deal. The XT4000d is like $2xx on Ebay. The MD2D is better, but not proportionally so.

Good shit man, I'll definitely be checking them out. Sounds like the 4000d is the way I might want to go. How would you go about wiring them up as well? Oh and I do plan on getting the 4ohm subs.

..and where is this cashback deal thing located? I can't seem to find it.

Google the following: live.com cashback deal

For the XT4000d and the MD2D you'd want 2 dual-4-ohm subwoofers and you'd wire all the voice coils in parallel for a 1 ohm load. If you got a different amp, it might be different.

Wait wait wait.. Why isn't it good to have a UD pulley and a stereo system? I have a mild system right now, i'm gonna be adding in the 1500W amp (probably running around 750W RMS tho) and a new 10" sub, and I have an Underdrive pulley. Why is this bad?!

Wait wait wait.. Why isn't it good to have a UD pulley and a stereo system? I have a mild system right now, i'm gonna be adding in the 1500W amp (probably running around 750W RMS tho) and a new 10" sub, and I have an Underdrive pulley. Why is this bad?!

Your amp might not supply enough power to the entire system.

Wait wait wait.. Why isn't it good to have a UD pulley and a stereo system? I have a mild system right now, i'm gonna be adding in the 1500W amp (probably running around 750W RMS tho) and a new 10" sub, and I have an Underdrive pulley. Why is this bad?!

Underdrive pulleys are made to reduce the electrical current used for they accessory power (like your radio), and put it towards more power for the engine parts. It will not like your Amps that you are putting in your car.

'Ruh roh..' I guess we'll see what happens. What could happen if the underdrive pulley does effect it? What's it's effect?

'Ruh roh..' I guess we'll see what happens. What could happen if the underdrive pulley does effect it? What's it's effect?

You'll need an overdrive pulley (I think thats the one) to be sure you have enough power. Or at least I was told.

That being said, you will need to look at your sub amp, and make sure not only the volume is up, but the filter is set at an appropriate level. make sure you really don't have too many higher frequencies going to your sub ( you will know when you can make out the words the artist says). You want to get it where the sub is capturing the bass that the speakers left off at.

Also, check your bass boost and make sure it is up. I would also see your head unit, and see if the bass is up, as well as check if there is a separate sub control on it.

Now also remember that your box will also make a difference. If you go with a sealed box, like the stealth box are, they will sound tighter, but they will need more power through them. If your box is ported, The bass will be a little looser, but there is a lot of air running through them, and it will sound louder. This is a popular choice with people that listens to Hip-Hop and electronica-type music. There is also the bandpass box, which includes a sealed and ported elements that will make it THUMP!


Be careful when adjusting the amp. Ive never seen a sub amp with "volume" on it. If youre referring to "gain" do NOT turn it all the way up.

Do not use bass boost.

Youre biggest problem is your box size and type. Some of my little brother's friends have P1s on shit for power that are hitting harder than my Fi Q on 1500watts rms because they are in a big ported box.

Going to a ported box would offer you the biggest gains in output you are looking for. A sealed box will NEVER be as loud as an equivalent sub/amp in a ported box. The ported box will get alot louder and require less power to do so and be easier on your sub. Especially when it comes to the low frequencies

All "volume knobs" are actually gain knobs, FWIW.

All "volume knobs" are actually gain knobs, FWIW.

yes, I was just trying to tell him not to buy into the common myth that setting the gains to max will give you the most output. That will lead to clipping and other issues

What does everyone think of that autotek amp? It seems like the deal of the century! I've never used them but heard nothing but good things about them.

What does everyone think of that autotek amp? It seems like the deal of the century! I've never used them but heard nothing but good things about them.

That's the one I bought. My amp powering the other speakers in my car is also an autotek (came with the car) and it's done nothing but good things. I could only imagine that the one I just ordered will be just as good. I got it from onlinecarstereo because a LOT of items are on sale.

yes, I was just trying to tell him not to buy into the common myth that setting the gains to max will give you the most output. That will lead to clipping and other issues

You are kind of right. While putting the amp up all the way could lead to clipping, you can put the volume up high if you have adjustable sub controls on your receiver, or if your amp comes with an remote.

I noticed the stealth box I bought off a guy here, hmm, was not as he stated when I asked him the internal size. He stated, it was .5 cuft. My woofer an Elemental Design 10" requires .4 cuft min optimum .5 cuft for a sealed enclosure and 1.0 cuft for a ported design. Ok, so when I got the box it looked small inside. I measured it and it was .26 cuft.!!! Well after I emailed the guy he says, "I built it to subthumps specs. they sound good for my 10s." Well my tape measure and math skills usually are dependable. So, I spend probably $50 more bucks on fiberglass and such. I mocked up out of posterboard the enclosure to use the rest of the complex angled space behind the box. I then fiberglassed it up which took more work then I expected. It was worth the effort, I got the interior space to .51 cu ft. If the industry boxes are all as small as the one I got that would really reduce the efficiency and effect the frequency curve of the speaker. It would be the equivalent to lowering your car the half ass way, cutting the springs. The speaker in a box with a too small a volume behind it will not have the correct movement. The air pressure will peak to early and effect excursion of the cone. Hence cut the springs car is too stiff and you lose suspension travel, too small enclosure and your woofer is less effecient and has less excursion.

I can't imagine in a stealth enclosure you could find the volume for a port.
Ed

Next you can work on getting a subwoofer from a decent company ;)

Are you saying, Elemental Designs speakers aren't good? I like them so far. Ian Kee recommended them to me when he was out of DVC 6.5's
ed

I just read your post from 2 1/2 years ago. I can't say how the woofer I just bought from them stacks up. Maybe its junk? I'll see.
But information thats 2 years old is maybe perisable? The would be saying that a company can never improve on their product. That is why they come out with new models right and as far as the specs for the speaker. I'm not sure whats missing?
Ed

Qts: .33
Qes: .36
Qms: 3.7
Fs: 22.00Hz
Re: 7.4
Vas: 70L
Mms: 125.0g
Bl: 18.90T*m
SPL: 85dB
Sd: 350cm²
Xmax: 18.3mm
Voice Coil: 50.0mm

Magnet Width: 5.700"
Cutout Diameter: 9.125"
Mounting Depth: 6.125"
Weight: 20lb
Total Height: 6.500"
Displacement: .06 ft³
Outside Diameter: 10.250"
Car Audio Box Size Suggestions Outline

Spec 11Ov.2 Subwoofer
Sealed ( small ) 0.4ft³
Sealed ( ideal ) 0.5ft³
Sealed ( large ) 0.6ft³
Vented ( ideal ) 1.0ft³ Tuned to 30Hz
Vented ( DDLoud) 1.2ft³ Tuned to 35Hz

Are you saying, Elemental Designs speakers aren't good? I like them so far. Ian Kee recommended them to me when he was out of DVC 6.5's
ed

They're so-so. But the company is shady (I can provide several links from several boards if you're curious) and they lie about their specs, so designing a good box for them would require someone to get some real specs like with Klippel.

Better would have been Peerless SLS run by a single amp channel. Dump that Monsoon crap.

Where did you get the idea I was using the monsoon still. I'm running a 600watts (rms)MTX Jackhammer to the 10, 125 watts (rms) a piece to the 6.5's subs for a rockford 2 channel and driving the 6.5 compnents and 4x6 infinity plates with a 4 channel Soundstream at 75 watts (rms) a piece. The source is getting cut up and distributed by a 24 dB/Octave Linkwitz-Riley Alignment Crossover. That way the amplifier and speakers only deal with the frequencies they are responsible to produce. Power is nothing without traction or in this case distortion. I'm sure you woould have done it differently, but I'm writing the checks, so I'm making the decision.
Ed

I noticed the stealth box I bought off a guy here, hmm, was not as he stated when I asked him the internal size. He stated, it was .5 cuft. My woofer an Elemental Design 10" requires .4 cuft min optimum .5 cuft for a sealed enclosure and 1.0 cuft for a ported design. Ok, so when I got the box it looked small inside. I measured it and it was .26 cuft.!!! Well after I emailed the guy he says, "I built it to subthumps specs. they sound good for my 10s." Well my tape measure and math skills usually are dependable. So, I spend probably $50 more bucks on fiberglass and such. I mocked up out of posterboard the enclosure to use the rest of the complex angled space behind the box. I then fiberglassed it up which took more work then I expected. It was worth the effort, I got the interior space to .51 cu ft. If the industry boxes are all as small as the one I got that would really reduce the efficiency and effect the frequency curve of the speaker. It would be the equivalent to lowering your car the half ass way, cutting the springs. The speaker in a box with a too small a volume behind it will not have the correct movement. The air pressure will peak to early and effect excursion of the cone. Hence cut the springs car is too stiff and you lose suspension travel, too small enclosure and your woofer is less effecient and has less excursion.

I can't imagine in a stealth enclosure you could find the volume for a port.
Ed

Yea the box will have to be bigger to be ported.