View Full Version : My first LS1...let the modding begin. Need opinions


weeble1
05-17-2009, 11:51 PM
OK... So first off, I did a lot of reading and really can't find a straight answer. It seems that what I read goes from one extreme to the other.
Here is the background on the car.
Just picked up a 1999 TA A4.
Borla Catback, Yank 3600 stall, Granatelli Mass Airflow Sensor, Fastoys Ramair Induction System, Directflow Airlid with K&N, Eibach springs, Hotchkis Sway Bar, BMR Tubular LCA & Relocation Bracket, BMR Driveshaft Loop
All that said, My original goal was 400RWHP but I see that with the A4 numbers aren't that important. I just want a down right fast DD.
Things that are planned are LTs, ory, cam, and obviously a tune.

My main question is what cam. I want a pissed off sound but I want it to be a good DD at the same time. Any suggestions would be great. I am a newb so take it easy on me.
Thanks in advance guys and girls!
Josh

liquidsmooth
05-18-2009, 12:08 AM
Josh if your going to DD that sob, do everything you have planned minus the cam. It'll be plenty fast and you'll be close to that 350 to the wheels. When you start doing head and cam you lose the DDness. I think it's silly to dump a bunch of money in a car to make it go faster but not to fast, because it still has to be a dd. Watch how much power you add too, things start breaking alot faster! That's my 2cents. Happy modding brotha.

406malibu
05-18-2009, 12:10 AM
OK... So first off, I did a lot of reading and really can't find a straight answer. It seems that what I read goes from one extreme to the other.
Here is the background on the car.
Just picked up a 1999 TA A4.
Borla Catback, Yank 3600 stall, Granatelli Mass Airflow Sensor, Fastoys Ramair Induction System, Directflow Airlid with K&N, Eibach springs, Hotchkis Sway Bar, BMR Tubular LCA & Relocation Bracket, BMR Driveshaft Loop
All that said, My original goal was 400RWHP but I see that with the A4 numbers aren't that important. I just want a down right fast DD.
Things that are planned are LTs, ory, cam, and obviously a tune.

My main question is what cam. I want a pissed off sound but I want it to be a good DD at the same time. Any suggestions would be great. I am a newb so take it easy on me.
Thanks in advance guys and girls!
Josh


you wont get a straight answer on here... cam is something you should do a LOT of research on before you choose. ultimately we could pick something out for you, but you might want something more aggressive, or more drivable, etc. One cam that you see a LOT of people using because of the drivability/chopy idle/proven power is the TR 224. its a small cam, but can be make great power.

weeble1
05-18-2009, 12:22 AM
Josh if your going to DD that sob, do everything you have planned minus the cam. It'll be plenty fast and you'll be close to that 350 to the wheels. When you start doing head and cam you lose the DDness. I think it's silly to dump a bunch of money in a car to make it go faster but not to fast, because it still has to be a dd. Watch how much power you add too, things start breaking alot faster! That's my 2cents. Happy modding brotha.

really? No cam huh? hhmmm. Thanks for the input. Definitely something to think about. Thanks

weeble1
05-18-2009, 12:23 AM
you wont get a straight answer on here... cam is something you should do a LOT of research on before you choose. ultimately we could pick something out for you, but you might want something more aggressive, or more drivable, etc. One cam that you see a LOT of people using because of the drivability/chopy idle/proven power is the TR 224. its a small cam, but can be make great power.
I did a little reading on that cam. I want to hear some sound clips on it. Thanks

weeble1
05-18-2009, 12:49 AM
Also plan on LS6 intake

black_phoenix
05-18-2009, 01:02 AM
I dont recommend a cam for a DD car or even an ory... but if you do settle for a cam, get a mild one...

My car is not a daily driver, full bolt on makes over 360 rwhp and im still unsure if i should install a cam, because im sure i will be near 400 rwhp... but gotta think of that 10 bolt and a stock clutch... My point is, once you start modding, be prepared to spend a little more cause stock shit might break... and these cars aint exactly brand new

weeble1
05-18-2009, 01:12 AM
I see. The one I picked up has relatively low miles (41K). I guess I need to do some thinking. What should I do if no ORY?

ARCTIC '00
05-18-2009, 01:23 AM
I don't see why a mild cam wouldn't be suitable for a DD. I had a TR 224/224 on a 114 on my old '98 Z28 that made for a VERY good street car, not too bad of an idle and good torque throughout.

weeble1
05-18-2009, 01:30 AM
I don't see why a mild cam wouldn't be suitable for a DD. I had a TR 224/224 on a 114 on my old '98 Z28 that made for a VERY good street car, not too bad of an idle and good torque throughout.

That's kinda what I'm looking for. I don't mind a choppy idle. I know fuel mileage will take a little hit but I'm prepared for that.

BlueBird346
05-18-2009, 01:58 AM
I see. The one I picked up has relatively low miles (41K). I guess I need to do some thinking. What should I do if no ORY?

Theres no reason to not do ORY, unless you have to pass emission tests. My DD has one, its just a little louder(which is a good thing IMO)

weeble1
05-18-2009, 09:51 AM
I'll probably just go ahead and do it when I do the LTs. If I don't like it I'm sure I'll be able to sell it.
Thanks

SMOKNSS
05-18-2009, 10:03 AM
I would absolutely do an ORY whether it be a DD or not. Even a cam CAN be suitable for a DD, you just have to do your homework. Driveability is mostly in the tune. I have put together a car with Ported 5.3 heads and a MS3, A4 that was a DD. Just have to find out what you call driveability "issues" and go from there on cam selection. But you can always go custom grind and have Patrick G taylor a cam to your needs and have everything you want.

ynkssws6
05-18-2009, 10:05 AM
Only thing that sucks about an ORY is smelling like fumes when you get out of the car, it's not something i like walking into work. (white collar job)

You'll love the LTs def go for it.

weeble1
05-18-2009, 10:15 AM
I would absolutely do an ORY whether it be a DD or not. Even a cam CAN be suitable for a DD, you just have to do your homework. Driveability is mostly in the tune. I have put together a car with Ported 5.3 heads and a MS3, A4 that was a DD. Just have to find out what you call driveability "issues" and go from there on cam selection. But you can always go custom grind and have Patrick G taylor a cam to your needs and have everything you want.

Know anything about prices to have him grind one for me?

weeble1
05-18-2009, 10:16 AM
Only thing that sucks about an ORY is smelling like fumes when you get out of the car, it's not something i like walking into work. (white collar job)

You'll love the LTs def go for it.

wow... is it really that bad? I was next to a 98 with cam, lts, ory and borla and it didn't smell bad at all. hhhmmmm

406malibu
05-18-2009, 10:59 AM
wow... is it really that bad? I was next to a 98 with cam, lts, ory and borla and it didn't smell bad at all. hhhmmmm

you can smell the fumes with an ory, but unless you are walking around the car constantly for 20 min with the car running, you aren't going to smell like it.

ARCTIC '00
05-18-2009, 05:05 PM
That's kinda what I'm looking for. I don't mind a choppy idle. I know fuel mileage will take a little hit but I'm prepared for that.

Then the 224/224 seems like a good choice for you! :D

SOMbitch
05-18-2009, 09:49 PM
If you want to pick up an extra 40-50 hp get a a high22x-low23x cam and keep the lift around .600. The cost is changing springs much more often. Some say 20k but i just checked mine at 20k and they were OK so I will go 10k more and check and prolly change then...

weeble1
05-18-2009, 10:03 PM
If you want to pick up an extra 40-50 hp get a a high22x-low23x cam and keep the lift around .600. The cost is changing springs much more often. Some say 20k but i just checked mine at 20k and they were OK so I will go 10k more and check and prolly change then...

That's what I want. How would the sound of that be? Really choppy?

StreetSilverado
05-18-2009, 10:37 PM
Mod the hell out of it! Its only money anyway :lol:. Go heads, cam, intake, nitrous and everything else :D. Get into the 10s-11s easy.

NeedaV8foundation
05-18-2009, 11:04 PM
the cam in my sig has a nice lobe to it and i dd the shit out of it. it made 381 to the wheels without a lid or tb.

StreetSilverado
05-18-2009, 11:23 PM
^^^That is a good DD cam. I have a 231/237 .598/.595 on a 112LSA and its nice for a DD, too bad I want to go bigger :devil:

ynkssws6
05-29-2009, 09:33 AM
wow... is it really that bad? I was next to a 98 with cam, lts, ory and borla and it didn't smell bad at all. hhhmmmm

Yeah, it fucking stinks. You don't smell like it when you're driving but if you sit in traffic it sucks People def smell it on you when you walk into a room. FWIW there's a good amount of overlap in my cam, so there's a slight gas smell as well.

solo21
05-29-2009, 12:51 PM
I have a 226/230 cam @112 with 9/18 springs and love it, it sounds really aggressive and drive it to work everyday, just like someone said, the tune is what makes it happen, I have seen some pretty crazy setups that run all day on a/c, to work and back with no problem....I guess it all depends how you define DD...just my 2cents

weeble1
05-29-2009, 01:35 PM
ok cool guys, Thanks for the info. I just picked up the springs and all yesterday. I'll probably order something in the 238-232 .600 112 lsa area. Question, when I see for example 112 +4 lsa what does that mean?
Thanks again
Josh

SOMbitch
05-29-2009, 03:00 PM
ok cool guys, Thanks for the info. I just picked up the springs and all yesterday. I'll probably order something in the 238-232 .600 112 lsa area. Question, when I see for example 112 +4 lsa what does that mean?
Thanks again
Josh


Go and read the cam sticky:D

112 is the lobe separation angle. It is the distance in degrees between peak lift of the intake and exhaust valves. +4 is the advance ground in the cam. 112+4 means the intake center line is 108. Obviously you get that by subtracting advance from LSA. If the cam was retarded instead of advanced to get ICL.

weeble1
05-29-2009, 03:15 PM
Go and read the cam sticky:D



I'll do that now, Didn't know there was one. I knew that 112 was the lope separation angle, just didn't know about the +4 for the advance ground in the cam. Thanks again and sorry for the stupid questions.
Josh

02BLKWS6MD
05-30-2009, 02:10 PM
Your gonna get mixed reveiws on here about camming and modding the DD. My take on it is if thats what you want to do, do it. Look at my DD in my sig, I made 426whp and drive it in rain, snow sunshine every type of weather. I love having a fast DD and thats exactly what I wanted.

willis b otch
05-31-2009, 05:24 PM
I did a little reading on that cam. I want to hear some sound clips on it. Thanks

heres a 220/114 lsa cam. havent really herd a good quality video of the tr224 cam

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7EBu4pCvZs

468CH3V3LL3
06-01-2009, 07:22 PM
If i get a cam with about .600 lift and springs rated to .650, how often should the springs be checked/replaced? :hijack: