Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

would this qualify for it? i dont want to take the 1/4 panel off

fxgs

iTrader: (2)

Short answer..........no

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

dam!!

i was gonna do the compressed air trick, or a rubber mallet.

cvalliere

iTrader: (1)

FYI, you just can't "take off your 1/4 panel". unless you feel like drilling out spot welds and carefully air chisiling it off and then welding it back on. and those dents are toooo big for PDR.

99FormulaM6

iTrader: (21)

You might be surprised at what an experienced body shop can do. They could, most likely, repair that without taking it off

blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

you would be surprised what a paintless dent repair guy can do. where it meets your rear bumper they wont be able to get out becasue its creased the metal but i would bet a majority of it would be gone down to the body line

i would similar to that right in the center of the wheel well right on the fender lip and it is nearly gone and the guy charged me 50 bucks.

my .02 is call one and talk to them and see what they can do for you, but you will probably still have a little damage on that body line where the bumper meets the fender

1995blacktattop

iTrader: (2)

yeah PDR really isn't for that. here is a ding i had removed 2 days ago for $40. i drove to the place and while the guy was working on another car i removed the jack and spare for him. he had quoted me $40 if i did that. PDR is more for dings than it is outright dents. you can see the ding just above the back part of the rear wheel. it's shown in the reflection of the gfx from the white T/A

05vette

I went to school for autobody for a couple years...if u can reach the back sides of those dents from the trunk, they shouldnt have a problem fixing it without taking the quarter panel off. If any PDR shop says they can do it, i would opt against it and have a really body shop do it. PDR is the wrong way to go period...is what i was learned looks good for awhile...but years down the road u might not be so lucky..specially if they dont put back the factory rust proofing where the changed the metals struture. PDR is fixing the problem without stress relieving the metal and this can lead to problems down the road

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

yea im able to push on it in the back. i did push out about 20% of it

i want to do the compressed air trick next, but im gonna get quoted from body shops. it isnt really pushed in or creased except in that dorner, but no one will notice that once the dent is out.

im just hoping this doesnt cost more than a couple hundred to fix

cvalliere

iTrader: (1)

WHAT THE HELL IS ALL THIS TALK ABOUT REMOVING THE 1/4!!! That is just simply an asinine idea, you won't find any body man that would ever go through that to take out a dent.

I've been doing collision repair for 10yrs. now professionally. What a body man would do would grind the paint off to bare metal and use a uni spotter or stud gun, which ia gun that welds a nail like stud to the bare metal and you use a slide hammer to pull the dent out the best you can then you use body filler to finish it off.

Revelation Z28

iTrader: (10)

thats what i was watching on youtube. they push as much out first then re-form the 1/4 panel with the stud gun

1995blacktattop

iTrader: (2)

are you saying i shouldn't have used PDR on that little ding? or are you just saying that PDR for large damage is not the way to go?

05vette

I was jus taught there was nothing good about it...specially larger problems...even small like hail damage spots and door dings...you would take a small torch circle around the spot very closly..then quence with a wet rag and it was draw alot of it back up. It would still have to be sanded, a layer of plastic..or bondo..really should use plastic filler though...sanded again then finally painted.

dragonrage

It's not so much the size of the damage but the type and the location of the damage.