Relay mounting?
05-20-2009, 07:15 AM
#1
Relay mounting? Just curious on people's opinions..
Getting ready to install my kit, and my initial plan was to mount all my relay's in my glove box with the window switch. But thinking about it i could also mount them up inside the plastic fender where the air pump use to be? Being exposed like that, would they be okay? It'd cut down on wire lengths quite a bit.
Also all the relay come with plug in pigtails, which obviously have set gauge wires. After weeks of reading i wanted to run a thick 10/12 gauge to my heater, cause it'll be such a long wire going to the rear seat area from under the hood. But if it's only a 14 gauge coming off the pigtail it makes no sense to hook up a 10ga to it? I like using the pig tails though, they have a more solid connection then just hooking up spade connectors to the bottom of the realy.
Thanks! Been waiting about a month to get all this in
Pictures to come!
Getting ready to install my kit, and my initial plan was to mount all my relay's in my glove box with the window switch. But thinking about it i could also mount them up inside the plastic fender where the air pump use to be? Being exposed like that, would they be okay? It'd cut down on wire lengths quite a bit.
Also all the relay come with plug in pigtails, which obviously have set gauge wires. After weeks of reading i wanted to run a thick 10/12 gauge to my heater, cause it'll be such a long wire going to the rear seat area from under the hood. But if it's only a 14 gauge coming off the pigtail it makes no sense to hook up a 10ga to it? I like using the pig tails though, they have a more solid connection then just hooking up spade connectors to the bottom of the realy.
Thanks! Been waiting about a month to get all this in
Pictures to come! 
05-20-2009, 07:29 AM
#2
FormerVendor
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Glenolden, PA
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would try and keep the relays as far away from any potential areas that could be exposed to rain. The relays we send out carry the proper gauged wires for each pig tail. Even if yours does not have the proper gauge wire, I would step up the gauge based on distance it is run.
Nick
Nick
Just curious on people's opinions..
Getting ready to install my kit, and my initial plan was to mount all my relay's in my glove box with the window switch. But thinking about it i could also mount them up inside the plastic fender where the air pump use to be? Being exposed like that, would they be okay? It'd cut down on wire lengths quite a bit.
Also all the relay come with plug in pigtails, which obviously have set gauge wires. After weeks of reading i wanted to run a thick 10/12 gauge to my heater, cause it'll be such a long wire going to the rear seat area from under the hood. But if it's only a 14 gauge coming off the pigtail it makes no sense to hook up a 10ga to it? I like using the pig tails though, they have a more solid connection then just hooking up spade connectors to the bottom of the realy.
Thanks! Been waiting about a month to get all this in Pictures to come!
Getting ready to install my kit, and my initial plan was to mount all my relay's in my glove box with the window switch. But thinking about it i could also mount them up inside the plastic fender where the air pump use to be? Being exposed like that, would they be okay? It'd cut down on wire lengths quite a bit.
Also all the relay come with plug in pigtails, which obviously have set gauge wires. After weeks of reading i wanted to run a thick 10/12 gauge to my heater, cause it'll be such a long wire going to the rear seat area from under the hood. But if it's only a 14 gauge coming off the pigtail it makes no sense to hook up a 10ga to it? I like using the pig tails though, they have a more solid connection then just hooking up spade connectors to the bottom of the realy.
Thanks! Been waiting about a month to get all this in
Pictures to come!
05-20-2009, 07:48 AM
#4
i believe they came with the right wire size for a given distance, but i guess i'd rather air on the side of caution? I'd rather run a heaver gauge the first time and be safe. So my question is do i just lose the pigtail and go spade connector? or try popping the wire out of the pigtail and installing a larger gauge
05-20-2009, 09:56 AM
#5
8 second mod
iTrader: (37)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: East Side Performance! mASShole
Posts: 17,879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the heater will have no proplem running with the 10ga or the 14. from the glove box to the rear i would just run the 10ga and dont use the pigtail on just that relay.
i have a nice little trick for the relay mounting, looks great and its easy and you will only have 1 or 2 holes inplace of 1 hole per relay.
go with the glove box, trust me, its the best place, run that one main fused power into there put the block inplace and do it up.
if i was to do bobys over or my own thats what i would do. its faster to just toss them in but if i was doing my own car or yours or getting paid by the hour, thats what i would do. get a silver paint pen thing, mark every relay so its easy to test/replace if need be, no tracing wires to figure out what is what. it will be good!!!!
i have a nice little trick for the relay mounting, looks great and its easy and you will only have 1 or 2 holes inplace of 1 hole per relay.
go with the glove box, trust me, its the best place, run that one main fused power into there put the block inplace and do it up.
if i was to do bobys over or my own thats what i would do. its faster to just toss them in but if i was doing my own car or yours or getting paid by the hour, thats what i would do. get a silver paint pen thing, mark every relay so its easy to test/replace if need be, no tracing wires to figure out what is what. it will be good!!!!
05-21-2009, 03:23 AM
#6
Man I would never put the relays in the pass compartment. One of the reasons we use relays is to keep the high amp loads out of the pass area for safety. Once you have a wire melt down in the pass compartment you will know why all the car companies try to keep all high amp relays/wiring away from that area. However, on the Z06 this is difficult but not impossable. Run the wiring under the car inside the tunnel and up through the tire well. then run a divider behind the seats. that way you will never breath that burning wire, should it let go, and die, lol. Also, you will still be able to see the track at 130mph (smoke is heavy on burning wires).
I would use the bigger wire as it will surely help keep the amp load draw down. I just dumped my dual heater set-up (dated tech IMO) for NANO, and was looking at my relays and one of them got so hot that it melted the black housing. I thought I had adequate wire gauge, but was not heavy enough for that long distance. Another reason NANO rocks, getting rid of that wiring in the passenger compartment.
I like, and most put the relays in the battery tray area for easy access and looks good too. Beer has a really nice set-up in the battery tray, I will see if I have a picture.
Here's Beer's and it all fits behind to the side of the battery. he has some pics with battery installed which shows truly how nice it came out.
EDIT: By the way, I just did a full C5/C6 nitrous how-to install on my web site. it's pretty eleaborate on covering the wiring and routing and such. Mucho insight there and much more for the Vettes, much more. i am not a sponsor here yet, so i can't link you, but if your really interested google can get you there with some effort, lol. No I don't sale anything to ls1tech folks, so haters please don't try and cause me problems, again, lol.
Robert
I would use the bigger wire as it will surely help keep the amp load draw down. I just dumped my dual heater set-up (dated tech IMO) for NANO, and was looking at my relays and one of them got so hot that it melted the black housing. I thought I had adequate wire gauge, but was not heavy enough for that long distance. Another reason NANO rocks, getting rid of that wiring in the passenger compartment.
I like, and most put the relays in the battery tray area for easy access and looks good too. Beer has a really nice set-up in the battery tray, I will see if I have a picture.
Here's Beer's and it all fits behind to the side of the battery. he has some pics with battery installed which shows truly how nice it came out.
EDIT: By the way, I just did a full C5/C6 nitrous how-to install on my web site. it's pretty eleaborate on covering the wiring and routing and such. Mucho insight there and much more for the Vettes, much more. i am not a sponsor here yet, so i can't link you, but if your really interested google can get you there with some effort, lol. No I don't sale anything to ls1tech folks, so haters please don't try and cause me problems, again, lol.
Robert
Last edited by Robert56; 05-21-2009 at 03:36 AM.
Trending Topics
i would love to do a clean install like that on mine
05-21-2009, 12:32 PM
#10
8 second mod
iTrader: (37)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: East Side Performance! mASShole
Posts: 17,879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
he is going to fuse the main feed into the car, then fuse the heater on its own. if you do it right, no melting wires. ive had my relays in my cars for years as has just about every other car i know. on my vett, i did what robert shows, but that was just super easy and i have my stainless cover and you cant see anything. f body, cut the back of the glove box out like i did and go to town.
see you tonight timmy, you can check mine out
see you tonight timmy, you can check mine out
