quickws60423

using 10-30 thanks for ur help

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

any of them are good. put 2 cans in, run it at idle for about 5 minutes, then change your oil.

quickws60423

so i drain the oil, plug it back up, then put the cleaner in let it run then drain and continue with oil change?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

No, No, No!!!!!

You must have oil in there with the flush. You can literally kill your engine by just running the flush in it, you would need to pull the motor and rebuild it after that.


Here's what I do.
If my crankcase is full of oil (5 1/2 quarts).
Pull the drain plug and drain no more than 2 quarts. 3 1/2 quarts remains.
Leave the old oil filter on.
Then put the two quarts of flush in.
Run it at idle for 5 minutes if it was already hot. Or 15 minutes if it was a cold start. Do not drive it or rev it, just idle.
Drain it and put the new oil in and the new oil filter on.
Done.

I do that at every oil change. And I personally think it has been a big part of my engine being at 117,000 miles and still perfect. 427ci built engine, not a stock engine.

I always do oil changes after the engine is totally hot. It allows the oil to drain out better because its not so thick. So do the oil change and flush after its been driven and got to operating temp. Just like all the quicky oil change places do it.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I think the last time I did a change I used the "GUNK" brand. Grey plastic bottles.

But any engine flush stuff will do.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Oh, and this might not be possible for ya, and its probably getting a little carried away. If you get the car up i na way where the oil drain plug is the lowest point, you'll get all of the old oil out. I have all the jacks and ****, that what I do. Puttin gthe car up on ramps leaves a bunch of oil pooled in the rear of the pan.

But its no biggie if you can't. I'm just **** when it comes to getting old oil out of my engine.

killagt

iTrader: (3)

what i alway did is pour in a new quart ( cheap brand oil ) after I drain all my oil out. and let it drain that quart out. that way I know my engine is clean.

SStriker

iTrader: (3)

^ I do the same thing - Run 1 qrt of cheap oil when I drain the old oil. I know it's not getting all the old oil out but it helps...
I don't have a lift and don't want to be under the car when it's hot....lol

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, there's a few ways to do it. I used to drain ALL the old oil out. Then put 2 quarts of flush with 2 new quarts of oil (2 + 2).....run that for like 5-10 minutes and drain it all out. But I think that was getting a little carried away. My oil is changed every 3,000 and its still comes out clean when I change it, hardly dirty at all. So when I drain it out, its visibly pretty clean.

When I drain a couple quarts out, put the 2 quarts of flush in and let it clean the engine.....then I drain the 2 + 2 out....it looks like brand new oil coming out. So I know doing it this way leaves that engine just about as clean as its gonna get.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

killagt and SStriker,

When you guys drain ALL the old oil out, and then you just put 1 quart in to run it....is that enough oil (1 quart) to get oil pressure? I didn't think 1 quart was enough for the pick-up tube to reach the oil in the pan. Especially after its been circulated throguh the engine, that would leave about half quart in the pan at all times while running.

Hope you guys aren't sitting there with a running engine and no oil pressure. That oil is probably just sitting in the pan doing nothing. The engine will run ,at idle, for a little while without getting really damaged. But man, if its sitting there with no oil pressure for a few minutes, you're killing your bearings.


.

jmasse

The correct answer is NONE!

Change your oil regularly along with a quality oil filter.

Engine flushes are not good for your engine.....they may even cause problems by "washing" certain parts of the engine.

I would love for some of our engine building sponsors to jump in here!

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Thats as simple as it gets. Any normal oil works just as good as any top shelf super magical synthetic oil. Just change the **** every 3,000.

Have to disagree here though. I'm on my 4th heavily modded engine in 20 years. All my enignes go over 100,000, where everyone else I know with heavily modded engines are lucky to get 50,000-70,000 before they need a rebuild. I've always flushed my engines at every oil change. My regular passenger cars, same thing. They're all perfect. Currently at 117,000 with my 427ci. and purring like a kitten.

If it was bad I think by now I would have had some related troubles. 10 cars in 25 years and nothing. Same with my mother and fathers cars that I take care of for them.

If an engine builder actually comes on here and says that flushing an engine is bad, I'll tell them they have no clue what they're talking about. They might be able to build an engine, but they need to learn just a little more. I wouoldn't want to completely strip and engine internally and let it dry, but that doesn't happen with engine flushing, there's always oil in every part of the engine coating everything.

drummydummy

iTrader: (1)

I actually went to a seminar hosted by BG products today, so I will chime in with what information I took fromt the class today.

Incorrect.

There are a few interesting things I learned about oil today.

Running the right kind of engine flush/cleaner/treatment will greatly increase the life of the oil. This is due to a few reasons.

First of all lets think about what causes engine oil to break down and leave all that nasty gunk at the bottom we know as sludge! Anytime the oil 'breaks down' it is usually caused by either being run too hot for too long of a period of time, moisture getting into the oil, or oxidation of the oil. Another common culprit to the sludge is microscopic pieces of metal created from normal engine wear. These particles can also circulate in the oil and collect at the bottom of the pan.

Now most base stock oils come with detergents or dispersants, these help 'defend' the metal parts needing lubrication from all the sludge. These additives already in the oil seek out the deposits and surround them preventing them to contact with vital engine parts. However, when the oil breaks down, which inevitably it will at some point or another, the oil can no longer hold onto these deposits in the oil. They then proceed to fall to the bottom of the pan, thanks to gravity, and will remain there until they are properly removed.

So you can just run synthetic right?

Well. . . full synthetic oils need additives more than regular oil believe it or not! This is because it does not have the natural detergents found in base stock oil. The natural mineral lubricants are replaced with man made 'synthetic' lubricants because it would remain fluid in extreme cold temperatures, which caused petroleum-based or natural lubricants to solidify due to their higher wax content. These synthetic molecules also help reduce sulfur in the oil. So when the oil DOES break down, it is left even more defenseless against sludge and grime.

So, to try and sum things up, these oil additives are vital to a properly lubricated oil system. The vital things that make up these additives are:

Friction Modifiers - they do what it sounds like, help lubricate

Seal Conditioner - This helps defend almost any silicon based seal in the motor. This is the #1 leading cause to all of those leaking oil pans, valve cover gaskets, and so forth. Without good seal conditioner the oil deposits will literally eat away at those seals.

Oxidation control - this helps prevent oxidation at extreme operating temperatures preventing rust and corrosion


Now in a perfect world you would change your oil regularly before the oil has a chance to break down from the car's very first odometer mile. Then a flush would never be needed. BUT, everyone knows that is not the case. So to correctly remove all the deposits and broken down oil molecules, you need to flush the oil with the motor running with a quality product. Many popular ones are Seafoam, Gummout, Valvonline's flush kit, Mighty makes one as well.

Once you have cleaned the engine of the deposits you do not need to do them regularly, granted, you use a good motor oil and keep up with your oil changes faithfully. But keep in mind, most cars sludge problems will not be cured after just one treatment.


OK, that's enough mumbo jumbo for now!

I hope this was useful to the OP and anyone else with some questions. Also remember I don't have a PHD in chemistry but, I figured I would share while the info was semi-fresh on my mind!!

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Good info.

Yeah, I find it strange that anyone would say that helping to flush "dirty" and "broken down" oil from an engine at an oil change would be bad. After all, the only reason we change our oil is because its "dirty" and "broken down". You might as well get as much out as possible and start nice and fresh each time. Isn't that how it is when an engine is brand new

It works for me and all my engines.

killagt

iTrader: (3)

give auto-rx.com a try, read it on Bobistheoilguy.com , you will thanks me later , My engine I just bought, no oil burn, no leak, engine run perfect, until I pull the valve cover, OMFG it sludge so bad, im treat with auto-rx now, dont affair of the price , it worth it.

jmasse

As you mentioned, BG products hosted the seminar......and they happen to see engine flush so it makes sense they would argue on that side.

After your engine flush, go ahead and add some Slick 50 while you're at it!