cam sensor
05-22-2009, 03:16 PM
#2
Sensor is behind the intake manifold as said in my pm. Sorry bro. And that might or might not be the problem.
You can get them from gm but they are pricey .Likely spdc is best price. I got one off ebay actually.
And there are jobber ones out there too.
I don't think there is any way to electrically test them off the car. And think all you can check is that they are getting power and signal on the car. If you have program like hptuners you can monitor the sensor output directly . I will be trying to figure out whats the deal with my car. I never had the problem with my ls1 engine.Then after swap starting getting it. Had problem pluggin in the one sensor and figured maybe bent a pin or broke pin. So put in new gm sensor this spring when installed other stuff and had intake off. And got same codes again..342 and think 341 or 340? 342 for sure.
As said its big pain for me as my 120 pound injectors can't run with that code or sensor messing up. It puts the engine into batch fire mode. Big injectors don't work in batch fire. My problem is sometimes intermittent. When did get working again briefly and not sure how or why my car ran perfectly. The hard starting and tach going dead are part of the same deal. and I think mileage and a bit rougher running is also other symptoms.
You can get them from gm but they are pricey .Likely spdc is best price. I got one off ebay actually.
And there are jobber ones out there too.
I don't think there is any way to electrically test them off the car. And think all you can check is that they are getting power and signal on the car. If you have program like hptuners you can monitor the sensor output directly . I will be trying to figure out whats the deal with my car. I never had the problem with my ls1 engine.Then after swap starting getting it. Had problem pluggin in the one sensor and figured maybe bent a pin or broke pin. So put in new gm sensor this spring when installed other stuff and had intake off. And got same codes again..342 and think 341 or 340? 342 for sure.
As said its big pain for me as my 120 pound injectors can't run with that code or sensor messing up. It puts the engine into batch fire mode. Big injectors don't work in batch fire. My problem is sometimes intermittent. When did get working again briefly and not sure how or why my car ran perfectly. The hard starting and tach going dead are part of the same deal. and I think mileage and a bit rougher running is also other symptoms.
05-22-2009, 03:42 PM
#4
Yeah for sure got 342 not sure if 343 or if 341 ,340 but you likely will get the other ones too.
So what the heck .Yours might be total failure of the sensor. That would be lucky.
I am not sure if going to try a third sensor as said dont' think there is any way to test them out of the car and not running. Pain since have to keep reinstalling the intake.At least intake is dry with resuseable gaskets but still pain in the ***.
So what the heck .Yours might be total failure of the sensor. That would be lucky.
I am not sure if going to try a third sensor as said dont' think there is any way to test them out of the car and not running. Pain since have to keep reinstalling the intake.At least intake is dry with resuseable gaskets but still pain in the ***.
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05-23-2009, 04:51 PM
#8
I started working on my car today. I first got new battery after reading couple guys got new batteries and solved the problem. My battery was pretty old but seemed ok.
I then undid ecu connectors and looked at pins to see if they looked good. Then I checked continuity of the three wires at the jumper connection by the intake but putting test thru the proper pins to the jumper female end. This confirmed continuity at least during the test didn't move the wires since only me doing the test and its hard to do much testing with only two hands.
I then reconnected battery and going to shortly check for voltage at the jumper female to cofirm computer is sending voltage to the sensor. If find voltage then will have to pull intake as next step and will check voltage and continuity at the second part of the cam sensor harness. Also can scan the sensor directly with my hptuners to see if its putting out output. Also checked three grounds on back of drivers head and they are on there but maybe will check to make sure they are tight.
if none of the above works then possilby pull off front cover and confirm cam gears and cam retainer bolts are tight and red loctite them but pretty sure blue loctited them and torqued them but you never know..
If thats not it then maybe ecu but see if ecu is sending power to the sensor first.
Will hopefully figure out this nightmare.
Oh could be cam reluctor wheel possilby no idea if this cam works as it was used and just installed it in this build and then the codes starting happening. Walking to me is maybe more likely than cam with messed reluctor wheel.
Keep me posted on your car please so we can compare notes.
I then undid ecu connectors and looked at pins to see if they looked good. Then I checked continuity of the three wires at the jumper connection by the intake but putting test thru the proper pins to the jumper female end. This confirmed continuity at least during the test didn't move the wires since only me doing the test and its hard to do much testing with only two hands.
I then reconnected battery and going to shortly check for voltage at the jumper female to cofirm computer is sending voltage to the sensor. If find voltage then will have to pull intake as next step and will check voltage and continuity at the second part of the cam sensor harness. Also can scan the sensor directly with my hptuners to see if its putting out output. Also checked three grounds on back of drivers head and they are on there but maybe will check to make sure they are tight.
if none of the above works then possilby pull off front cover and confirm cam gears and cam retainer bolts are tight and red loctite them but pretty sure blue loctited them and torqued them but you never know..
If thats not it then maybe ecu but see if ecu is sending power to the sensor first.
Will hopefully figure out this nightmare.
Oh could be cam reluctor wheel possilby no idea if this cam works as it was used and just installed it in this build and then the codes starting happening. Walking to me is maybe more likely than cam with messed reluctor wheel.
Keep me posted on your car please so we can compare notes.
05-27-2009, 01:52 AM
#9
Fixed my problem.Either third cam sensor that installed was a good one ,you can't test them on bench apparently or when we took connector to cam sensor apart and tightened up the pins it did the job. No more code 342. Car is staring on first crank, tach is working properly again . Idle sounds smoother and car sounds smoother and bet mileage is a lot better now too.
