S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Well, I finally got my hybrid up and running this morning only to find the rear main seal spewing oil. My fault, I reused the old one (23k miles) but I need to know, how does this go in, dry or with some type of lube (vaseline)? IIRC, all the LSx books say to NOT put anything on the sealing surface (advice I followed) and now it's leaking. Just want to get the new one in right...

TIA!

Russ

WhiteRhino

iTrader: (6)

I put redline assembly lube on the crank seal before I slid it on. Never had an issue.

conan

iTrader: (5)

I put a little oil on the crank and seal. I have never liked the idea of dry rubber rubbing on dry metal. I know it goes against what every thing said about reinstalling the seal but it has worked just fine for me several times.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Thanks! I don't like the idea of a dry install either. I'm not (yet) ruling out the rear cover gasket, which was also re-used.

One more: Do you think I'll need to drop the pan to do the rear cover? When I put it together, I didn't use any alignment tools, just made sure to keep the cover a few thou below the block surface. I could make large alum. bushing to center the seal cavity around the crank if it's important...

Russ

conan

iTrader: (5)

The pan probly doesn't have to come all the out but I would loosen all the bolts for reassembly. It would probly help getting the cover back on.

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

Did you have the pan,rear cover off at the same time? If so alignment of these two parts is critical. The pan must be flush with the rear of the block so when the bellhousing gets tightened down it does not pull the pan after all the pan bolts are tight. Also the rear cover needs to be aligned with the pan surface flush. The bottom of these motors tie together all nicely and help with the structural integrity of everything. Personally (as you found out) i'd never reuse either of those gaskets worth the cost to replace. A valve cover gasket on the other hand . . . .

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Well, that's plumb strange! I was able to use a light and look up between the rear cover and flywheel. The seal appears to be "blown out"! It looks like it's pushed back into the flywheel and I was hoping I could work it back in with a long screwdriver, but it's only the soft part that's pushed out. So, I pulled my tranny out today but ran out of time to pull the 'wheel off. I got a new "National" brand seal, are they any good?

I'm not using a 4L60E, but an old-school 200R4 that doesn't bolt up to the pan. But yes, I did have the pan and all covers off during inspection. I put the rear cover on 1st letting it "find" it's own position and then put the pan on last.

Russ

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

Well the only thing to be watchfull of doing it that way is the bottom edge of the cover does not protrude below the block to pan surface. Your could crack the pan. I take it you did not remove the seal from the cover during this correct? As for the 200R4 I helped a buddy do that same combo in his now LS1 powered 1981 Camaro. We had some issues with the bellhousing hitting the top bolts on the cover that has been resolved thanks to some kind folks on here.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Well, that's somewhat embarassing. Apparently, the factory seal came that way (with the lip poking out). Anyway, I got my old seal out w/o removing the rear cover and was able to get the new one in with little fuss. The new seal (National 10085) looked a bit different, somewhat thinner and no protruding lip. No instructions either, so I put it together with the painted dot out. Here are a few pix of the before and after, plus a pic of the 200R4 case mods. for the rear cover bolts.

Russ

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

Left the pilot bushing in the crank I see . . .

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Umm, is that a no-no or something? I just didn't see the need as it wasn't interfering with any of my automatic changeover...

Russ

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

I was just making a useless observation. I am almost positive it wont hurt a thing.