our window motors sux balls!!!!!!
05-27-2009, 03:53 PM
#1
our window motors sux *****!!!!!! wtf i got a window motor maybe less than a year ago and now its going out again... its the driver side... the pass side i havn't changed and still working great... are these motors too small for these big *** windows??? what motors are you guys buying??
05-28-2009, 10:34 AM
#2
The motors are a design from 1979 and usually the ones you get are remanufactured.
Go to http://www.dormanproducts.com or http://www.autozone.com and search for Doorman part 742-101. This is the new design motor. If you go to AutoZone's site, they have several different views of the part, where you can see the difference.
The motor is new and they claim it is redesigned with better seals, which prevent some of its modes of failure.
I've also installed an aftermarket regulator/motor of a different design in my car, but its only been in two years - so I can't recommend it yet as I don't know how durable it will be. (I did my switch before I came across the new motor design.)
Go to http://www.dormanproducts.com or http://www.autozone.com and search for Doorman part 742-101. This is the new design motor. If you go to AutoZone's site, they have several different views of the part, where you can see the difference.
The motor is new and they claim it is redesigned with better seals, which prevent some of its modes of failure.
I've also installed an aftermarket regulator/motor of a different design in my car, but its only been in two years - so I can't recommend it yet as I don't know how durable it will be. (I did my switch before I came across the new motor design.)
05-28-2009, 10:52 PM
#5
Yea, if you go with the Autozone motor, you shouldn't need a new regulator. If the regulator wheels are squared off and no longer round, Doorman makes replacement wheels that just pop on/off. (You can order those through any parts store and can search for them on Doorman's site.)
If you want to take the plunge (which is an expensive one) and go with an aftermarket system, they will come with new regulators. http://www.electric-life.com/shopexd.asp?id=929
If you want to take the plunge (which is an expensive one) and go with an aftermarket system, they will come with new regulators. http://www.electric-life.com/shopexd.asp?id=929
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12-12-2009, 12:34 PM
#9
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I've replaced my drivers side 2 times in 2 years. Passenger side was replaced when I first got it about 3 years ago. They're crap, but if you buy from autozone it comes with a warranty
12-17-2009, 04:59 PM
#12
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I changed my drivers side motor 3 times in 2 years. It started to sag towards the front so i changed the whole regulator out as well... and it still sags... ugh i hate f-body windows lol.
12-24-2009, 11:11 AM
#13
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OK, the motors are not going bad, the resistance strip in the motor is. If you pull the motor and put the "bottom" of it in a vice with the black piece on "top" you will see the bent metal tabs that hold the black plastic piece in place. Bend those back and slide the black part up and off of the assembly. The brushes (metal almost square things) will fall out, possibly their springs too, catch them and put them somewhere safe. Look inside the black piece and you will see a copper strip of metal, that is the failed part. Solder a wire (at least 16 ga) from one end to the other, bypassing the safety resistance strip. This should solve the problem of the motor not working.
Reassembly is kind of a pain. You need to cut something thin the width of the space between the brushes. I used a piece of radio backstrap, use whatever you have. Place the springs and brushes back in their slides and push them in flush. Place the "tool" you cut between them to hold them in place. They need to be held in just by the corners, your tool needs to not block the hole where the motor drive shaft goes. Now flip the black piece back over and put it back on the assembly, removing your tool once the brushes get low enough that they will contact the drive shaft before seating it completely. You may have to use a screwdriver to align the motor drive shaft with the hole. Seat the black piece completely and bend the tabs back to hold it in. Now plug it back in and test the motor.
This sounds complicated but it really is not. Besides, you were going to buy a new motor anyway, what's the harm in attempting this repair?
***DISSCLAIMER***
This procedure will bypass the safety feature that stops your window from rolling up through resistance. Use this guide at your own risk, I am not responsible for anybody decapitating their dog or child with their window. If it is up all the way then release the switch and if there is something in the way then stop rolling it up!
Reassembly is kind of a pain. You need to cut something thin the width of the space between the brushes. I used a piece of radio backstrap, use whatever you have. Place the springs and brushes back in their slides and push them in flush. Place the "tool" you cut between them to hold them in place. They need to be held in just by the corners, your tool needs to not block the hole where the motor drive shaft goes. Now flip the black piece back over and put it back on the assembly, removing your tool once the brushes get low enough that they will contact the drive shaft before seating it completely. You may have to use a screwdriver to align the motor drive shaft with the hole. Seat the black piece completely and bend the tabs back to hold it in. Now plug it back in and test the motor.
This sounds complicated but it really is not. Besides, you were going to buy a new motor anyway, what's the harm in attempting this repair?
***DISSCLAIMER***
This procedure will bypass the safety feature that stops your window from rolling up through resistance. Use this guide at your own risk, I am not responsible for anybody decapitating their dog or child with their window. If it is up all the way then release the switch and if there is something in the way then stop rolling it up!
12-26-2009, 11:46 AM
#15
I have this kit in my car and its been running perfect for three years now. It bolted right in. The only thing I had to do was change the electrical connector on the wires.
12-26-2009, 08:30 PM
#16
There is a way... http://www.electric-life.com/shopexd.asp?id=929
I have this kit in my car and its been running perfect for three years now. It bolted right in. The only thing I had to do was change the electrical connector on the wires.
I have this kit in my car and its been running perfect for three years now. It bolted right in. The only thing I had to do was change the electrical connector on the wires.
12-26-2009, 10:31 PM
#17
This kit is an aftermarket unit meant to replace manual window mechanisms. It replaces both the original regulator and motor in the door. Its an expensive way to solve our problems.
I did mine just before the new Doorman motor came out. If I had to do it all over again, I would have probably tried out the Doorman motor design. Its supposed to be sealed better and more reliable. I don't have any problems with my ElectricLife setup - its just that I haven't heard about any issues yet with a Doorman motor.
I did mine just before the new Doorman motor came out. If I had to do it all over again, I would have probably tried out the Doorman motor design. Its supposed to be sealed better and more reliable. I don't have any problems with my ElectricLife setup - its just that I haven't heard about any issues yet with a Doorman motor.
