taws6

iTrader: (2)

Is n2o more gentle on the rear end 10 bolt and tranny, than a stall and cam?

I'm thinking under 150 shot, and spraying above 3000 rpm in 3rd and 4th gear.


I will get my exhaust finished first, and will run all the available n20 safety kit.

From what I can tell, I can add a 140 dry shot, without upgrading anything else, as long as my fuel pump can keep up, which it should be able to do. Might be wrong with that...

I was also considering adding 1:8 roller rockers, is this a bad idea with n20? (I realise a cam would be more worthwhile for the $$, but I am a little reluctant to open up the engine).

Your thoughts please.........

Edit: Sorry, I ment to post this in the newbie section, but I guess here is okay too.

black2000ss

iTrader: (6)

140 is really high for a dry shot, I wouldn't do over 125 on stock pump and injectors. I don't think the rockers would be worth it, an ls6 intake or some other bolt on would probably be better. Plus I think you have to change the springs, so you might as well do a cam if you're changing springs just for rockers.

If you really only plan on spraying 3rd and 4th, the rear end is not something you need to worry about. It's not made of glass! If it breaks it's probably gonna be from a hard launch on sticky tires, not flooring it at 80 mph. As for the tranny, I don't know much about the autos, but I'd guess n20 would be harder because you would be making a lot more torque than with a cam/stall.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for your reply.

I would probably start with 75 shot, but may work up to 150, guess I'll keep it down to 125, or change to a wet shot if I want to go bigger.

I hear what your saying with 1:8 roller rockers, but I already have ls6 intake (2001), and a cam would require a stall & stickies to get it working well. Just looking for a bit more hp. I do realise the roller rockers are not good hp for the money. But could I use rr with n2o without problems?????

From what you said, it sounds normal to spray in 2nd gear as well.
I'm looking for a bit more power around 30 - 90 mph, and want a longer gentle hit, more than a short hard shot.

So can anyone tell me will n2o will be harder on my tranny than TC and cam??
(I know someone with A4 TC and cam, who has just broke his tranny, and I would like to try and steer clear of possable future problems)....
Any advise is welcomed, thanks......

NXZ28

iTrader: (45)

Nitrous will be harder on the rearend and especially the tranny than a head and cam package. It is the instant torque that will hurt parts. BTW, no matter how small a shot you run and what gear you spray it in, as soon as you get beat, you will put in the larger pills and spray earlier. Talk about a run on sentence. I sprayed my stock 10 bolt and tranny with a 200hp shot, ran 10.60s and ended up killing the tranny after about 40 passes. It was third gear that died.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

WOW, your 10 bolt and tranny lasted 40 passes of 200 shot?!!!
Mabey I needn't worry too much about a small shot then.

I'm not a drag racer, it just would be nice to know I have a little more on tap if needed / wanted.

I know what you're saying about going bigger in the end, but I'm happy not to have the fastest car around.

So 1:8 rollers are up to a little n2o then???

dnkynrbk

iTrader: (34)

I ran a 150 shot on a 10 bolt for a while with 26 slick but had a soft hit off the line. Then one day BANG it sheared the spyder gears off. Then I bought a 12 bolt. Also when I broke the rearend it snap the kickdown in my transmission so it was a costly exp.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Is there a system that introduces the nitrous gently at first, gaining in power, to help reduce stresses and wear on engine/parts?

I know because of increased cylinder pressure from n2o I need to retarded spark timing, could someone please explain what that is?

I'm starting to realise the money for rockers would be better spent elsewhere.

Thanks for the advise.......

Edit : Yes, I need a proressive controler

02ws602wrx

FJO box with the first gear lockout checked off only sprays in 2nd gear of flooring it. I.E. dead stop nail it sparys when car hits 2nd or when rolling at 40 then nail it after it hits redline and drops back after the kickdown the bottle will turn on kinda fun when roll racing, fall back then blow by them all. Remember 15seconds no matter what kinda shot you got 15 or 150 15seconds is the max then say night to bottom end and rods even on a tinywiny shot.

89tang

iTrader: (15)

Yup that goes for any car, and i can say i've seen the aftermath of not following the directions too. My cousins 02 mustang GT, i installed a nitrous kit for him and told him to run it in first through 4th and only for 15sec's at a time. He didn't listen he went from 2nd to the top of 5th racing a guy, he melted every sparkplug bent all the rods on the driver side exploded the number 8 piston bent alot of valves.....And believe it or not the car still started and ran lol

And you should upgrade the fuel pump, as for the timing being retarded it's 2 degrees for every 50shot you run you want 100 shot so i'd retard the timing 5 or 6 degrees just to be safe. There's only one problem you can't unless you have a programmer. And run 93-94 octane gas too, you don't want detonation with nitrous it will equal a busted piston also. Seems your pretty new to nitrous you should keep the shot low 50-75-100 shot being a dry kit, you have no way to add fuel or take timing away unless you find someone to tune it. Don't forget different plugs and plug gapping too .035 i believe is the perfer'ed gap. Don't forget a bottle heater, and gauge at the least. To get the best performance from nitrous the bottle pressure should be around 900 to 1000psi (or atleast my systems have been around there). If you do it correctly it's not as cheap as everyone thinks it is, but doing it correctly will keep your motor happy and make you happy for a long time.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

I will get a new fuel pump & injectors, and I will get it tuned also.
Probably not going to start spraying untill next year, so I got plenty of time time to lurk here, and pick up a better understanding.....
Yes, I'm a compleate newbie to N2O, and I'm realising a well set up dry system will probably cost me around a $1000 or so.
I'd prefer to spend the extra, and have a safe, reliable system (upto 150 shot) I can use alot, roll races being the norm and only a couple of runs at the strip.
Most of the cars I road race here I beat NA, but the spray would help bury them.

I'm looking to reduce my times between 30 - 90 mph
Still wondering if a stall & tyres might be better, but I want to be gentle on my tranny and rear end, hence considering a progressive controler.

If anyone else wants to add to my info please do
Thanks again,
Paul.

Edit: would a underdrive pulley be a bad idea for a bolt on, as I think it would underdrive the fuel pump?

SkullV

iTrader: (11)

Fuel pump is electric so an underdrive pulley will have nothing to do with fuel delivery. Might change how hard your injectors are working though depending on HP gains.

taws6

iTrader: (2)

Ahh, thanks for telling me SkullV, I somehow misread another post, added 1+1 and came up with 3 lol!!
I see what you mean with the injectors, and they may differ slightly.
Thanks for all the help,
Paul.