Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

So when I was taking down my transmission I thought it would be a great idea to just throw all the bolts in one big box - the problem now is trying to figure out which ones go where. Using the process of elimination I've come to the conclusion that these are the pressure plate bolts (pressure plate to flywheel bolts):



However, the first bolt I tried to put in snapped, so if these are indeed the right bolts, where can I get more? What is the ARP Part number for them?

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Those don't look like they have enough thread on them to work in that application...but it has been years since I had my clutch out at this point.

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

This is an LT1 by the way, I think there mite be a difference. This seems to be the only bolt even long enough for the job, and there is six of them (five now).

They seem to have just enough thread if you look at the second picture I just added.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Ahhhh...missed that part. Looks like they are the right ones from the second pic, but I'm not sure where you would source them. You might try calling Thunder Racing, Speed Inc., etc. to see if they might be able to help. A quick Google search didn't net me anything...

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

I guess I'll just get some replacements from the Stealership.

Turns out I broke that one because I was trying to torque it to LS1 specifications (55lbs) instead of LT1 specifications (25lbs).

Purple95Z28

iTrader: (6)

You should call up Summit or Jegs tomorrow and see if ARP makes something, it would probably cost about the same as the stealership would charge you for stock stuff.

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

There's a local ARP dealer I'm going to try, if they don't have it I'll just get the ones from the dealership. I don't want to put this off any longer.

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

yup thats a stock pressure plate bolt for the LT1. i couldnt find anything by arp to replace them tho. keep it updated if you can get a part number id appreciate it

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

So it turns out the GM discontinued the bolt - this should be fun.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Why am I not surprised...

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

ARP says part number 230-2202 is for their pressure plate bolts. I'm going to check with my local ARP dealer to double check.

EDIT - ARP will tell you the 230-2202 number, but it doesn't seem to be the right bolt at all to me. Both bolts they list for various years, including LS1's which I know use a different bolt. Also, they list the bolt as being 1" long, the LT1 bolt seems to be about 1.5".

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

Could I use a regular threaded bolt, or would that cause problems?

Rhin

I would advise against it. That is extreme jury riggin'. Also, I doubt that a standard bolt would have the right specs to handle the job appropriately.

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

Larry at Speen-Inc says it would be fine as long as the bolts diameter is the same.

There really isn't much other choice at this point.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

You probably could...I'd try to find one with as much grip length (unthreaded part of the shank) as you can to sort of match the stock bolt, but a little longer thread length doesn't look like it would hurt in this application. It should probably also have the flanged head like the stock piece.

I'd also get as strong of a bolt as you can find in that size...grade 10.9 if it is metric.

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

Bring it to a hardware store. Looks like a 10mm bolt, 1.25, or 1.5 thread pitch. Hard to say with a picture. Just measure it out with the ruler they have at a good hardware store and get a hardened bolt. Needs to be flanged, don't go longer/shorter without measuring/checking the flywheel for clearance, etc.

Also, be sure to loctite these bolts, and then torque to spec. First tightening in a star pattern, slowly, to suck the diaphragm of the clutch in.

Pull your alignment tool in and out when your done. If it doesn't slide in/out with ease, back off the pressure plate bolts, and start over. SLOW is the key word here. Clutch alignment is the key to a good clutch install, and eases trans. install.

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

Here's what I was able to find:


VS Stock:


Now I have two choices:

1. Cut them down to the length of the stock ones.

2. Replace them all with the long ones.

I personally like option 2, but can anyone see any problems with it?

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

You'll run into big problems if you bottom the bolt out in the hole before it has a chance to clamp the surfaces together. They may not have to be as short as the stockers, but they can't bottom out at all.

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

The flywheel hole goes all the way, there's no way for it to bottom out. The bolt wouldn't be long enough to bottom out though.

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

Horrible idea. Ever think of clearance issues at the back of the flywheel to the block/oil pan?

Find correct sized bolts.