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burning oil...why??

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Old 06-01-2009, 08:18 PM
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Default burning oil...why??

I had a brand new 01 LS1 long block installed about 8 months ago under warrenty (origional motor had a hole in the piston)...well, long story short this motors whole life, I have used Mobil 1 10w-30. The motor now has 12k on it. I had a MS3 installed with a ported LS6 oil pump at 11k. I switched over to Mobil 1 5w30 and now it burns a little less then half a quart every few weeks. Now, before the cam/oil pump went it, it burned NO oil. Why is this?my exhaust tips (center mount) and I dont have any carbon/oil build up on the tips compared to my old motor (I had to clean them every other day)...

Should I change oils? any suggestions? Right now my car is my DD. I keep it around 2k cruising, and shifting around 2800-3k. When Im WOT, I shift at 6700-6800. Redline is 7k Is it burning more oil because Im spinning it higher and my DD rpms are higher then before the cam?? (1500rpms cruising)
Old 06-01-2009, 10:00 PM
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When the cam was installed did they put new springs on with new valve seals?
I switched from Mobile 1 to Valvoline 10-30 and have had much better results.
Mobile 1 seems to be slipping
Old 06-02-2009, 12:57 AM
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I agree, it sounds like the seals may of got damaged
Old 06-02-2009, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by bigboykilroy
When the cam was installed did they put new springs on with new valve seals?
I switched from Mobile 1 to Valvoline 10-30 and have had much better results.
Mobile 1 seems to be slipping
Yup...it had brand new GM seals installed, Patriot Gold .660 lift valve springs, texas speed 7.425 chromoly hardened push rods, LS2 timing chain and Ported LS6 oil pump with the MS3 112 LSA cam.
Old 06-02-2009, 08:14 AM
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Order a new set of seal from Patriot Performance and replace them, I bet your issue will go away. You can order GM seal too but I just installed patriots and have had great results.
Old 06-02-2009, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by kidcamaro98
Yup...it had brand new GM seals installed, Patriot Gold .660 lift valve springs, texas speed 7.425 chromoly hardened push rods, LS2 timing chain and Ported LS6 oil pump with the MS3 112 LSA cam.
Question for you, were those seals the single piece seat/seal part from GM or were they separate? Just check because if they were the single piece seat/seal combo, they will cause the spring to coil bind early and either break the valve or spring.

If the oil consumption started, when the cam was installed, it could be a valve seal issue or the intake rocker bolts may have some oil passing through to the intake runner. I would pop the springs off and replace seals and put some thread sealant on the intake rocker bolt threads to ensure they seal up.

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Old 06-02-2009, 12:35 PM
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correct, on most cnc'd heads the intake rocker bolt exposes into the intake track, make sure to use sealant on the intake rocker arm bolts.
Old 06-02-2009, 02:15 PM
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He is cam only. Stock heads do not have rocker bolt pertruding in intake runner. Perhaps his seals were not seated properly, or he is sucking oild through TB/valve cover PCV system.

What I would do is a compression + leakdown test. That will determine if rings or seals are the issue. If not theose, then look at getting a catch can.
Old 06-02-2009, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
He is cam only. Stock heads do not have rocker bolt pertruding in intake runner. Perhaps his seals were not seated properly, or he is sucking oild through TB/valve cover PCV system.

What I would do is a compression + leakdown test. That will determine if rings or seals are the issue. If not theose, then look at getting a catch can.
I talked to Charles (who did my cam install/dyno tune...www.sickspeedperformance.com) and he said I need a catch can...its going out through my TB and PVC setup which makes alot of sence to me because the inside of my TB was black a few weeks after I just cleaned it again.

Im 100% its not a compression issue. The cars runs like a raped ape, cold or not....as it sits right now it traps 116 consistently on street tires, stock heads, and stock 10 bolt with 3.42's.
Old 06-03-2009, 02:10 PM
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Yeah, I've got the same problem. My oil consumption only began after my cam install. I've done the rev extreme catch can - and it doesn't catch any oil.

My car runs real strong too, and like the OP, it's low miles 25k. maybe 3k since cam.

I am doubtful of valve seals because there is no puff on start up. I've been told it puffs when I first lay into it - which leads me to believe it may be a ring issue.

So I feel your pain man... and have no solution at this time.
Old 06-03-2009, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 99_SS_LS1
Yeah, I've got the same problem. My oil consumption only began after my cam install. I've done the rev extreme catch can - and it doesn't catch any oil.

My car runs real strong too, and like the OP, it's low miles 25k. maybe 3k since cam.

I am doubtful of valve seals because there is no puff on start up. I've been told it puffs when I first lay into it - which leads me to believe it may be a ring issue.

So I feel your pain man... and have no solution at this time.
yah...I dont even have 3k on my car since the cam went in.

My car doesnt puff any smoke at start up...cold idle/hot idle...doesnt matter. Clear as day light besides the obvious condensation build up at the tips

WOT, it spits some black smoke, but thats because Im running rich right now. My car was dyno tuned with the stock injectors which were maxed at 5800rpms...I put in 41lbers, updated my tune with the proper scaling and havent been back to the dyno yet to have my AFR checked...

If you had bad rings, it would puff blue smoke (oil burn) and not black

White = Coolant
Black = rich
Blue = oil

My previous motor had a hole in piston Number 5. Bone stock motor and it had a dead cylinder at 43k. All it had was factory SLP intake and Center mount exhaust....at idle, that puffed blue smoke. WOT, it poured blue smoke...if you had a bad ring/piston, you would know it.
Old 06-04-2009, 09:10 AM
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To be honest with you, that is my concern too - that my tune is too rich.

If it runs to rich (especially at idle - near 12:1) it will wash down the cylinders - which can lead to worn rings. Worn rings will definitely cause oil consumption, and more than likely have little to no effect on performance.

I'm hoping thats not the case, but I'll find out this weekend when I put in my wideband.

You said you rescaled your tune for the new injectors so that shouldn't be your problem..
Old 06-04-2009, 10:00 AM
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12:1 will not wash down your rings, what would turbo poeple say? What is possible in a rebuilt motor is that the rings did not seat properly or someone F-up the shortblock build.
That is why I recommend both compression and leakdown test to make sure. Just because motor has 3K miles on, shouldn't dismiss those tests.
Old 06-04-2009, 11:14 AM
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I can't speak for turbo tunes but in his book, Greg Banish claims cylinder washdown can result near .8 lamda at idle
Old 06-04-2009, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 99_SS_LS1
To be honest with you, that is my concern too - that my tune is too rich.

If it runs to rich (especially at idle - near 12:1) it will wash down the cylinders - which can lead to worn rings. Worn rings will definitely cause oil consumption, and more than likely have little to no effect on performance.

I'm hoping thats not the case, but I'll find out this weekend when I put in my wideband.

You said you rescaled your tune for the new injectors so that shouldn't be your problem..
mine deff. isnt running rich at idle...it runs rich from 5k + WOT.
Old 06-04-2009, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
12:1 will not wash down your rings, what would turbo poeple say? What is possible in a rebuilt motor is that the rings did not seat properly or someone F-up the shortblock build.
That is why I recommend both compression and leakdown test to make sure. Just because motor has 3K miles on, shouldn't dismiss those tests.
My motor was a complete LS1 long block right from GM and it was installed at a Chev. dealership.
Old 06-04-2009, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by kidcamaro98
My motor was a complete LS1 long block right from GM and it was installed at a Chev. dealership.
I bet it did not come with a MS3

Once you cam it, anything can happen. #7 cylinder is known to develop issues if tuned on the ragged edge.

Did you degree your cam?
Did you check PTVC?
Are you sure your seals did not move?
Are you sure your springs are still doing their job?
Who installed your cam?

cars do not just start burning oil? either they always do it, but if it started recently, something is up.

How are you going to test your seals if you do not do a leakdown? Compression will tell you if any issues on any cylinder.

These 2 tests will rule out anything wrong with motor then you can concentrate on something else like PCV.
What if you put a catch can and it still does it?

Again, I repeat just because it has 12k miles doesn't mean nothing wrong happened to it.
Old 06-04-2009, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
I bet it did not come with a MS3

Once you cam it, anything can happen. #7 cylinder is known to develop issues if tuned on the ragged edge.

Did you degree your cam?
Did you check PTVC?
Are you sure your seals did not move?
Are you sure your springs are still doing their job?
Who installed your cam?

cars do not just start burning oil? either they always do it, but if it started recently, something is up.

How are you going to test your seals if you do not do a leakdown? Compression will tell you if any issues on any cylinder.

These 2 tests will rule out anything wrong with motor then you can concentrate on something else like PCV.
What if you put a catch can and it still does it?

Again, I repeat just because it has 12k miles doesn't mean nothing wrong happened to it.

Im running stock heads so there is plenty PTVC

I had the cam professionally installed and dyno tuned by a sponser here on ls1tech...www.sickspeedperformance.com. He did a Awesome job and his tune is safe.

pretty sure my springs are doing there job...they were brand new with the cam. They are patriot gold valve springs with .660 lift...less then 3k on them now. My valve train sounds like stock so everything is nice and tight.

I will do a compression test but im 100% thats not the issue. Theirs no signs
Old 06-04-2009, 05:50 PM
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Compression + LEAKDOWN

Compression to identify cylinder and leakdown to test seals.
That is what I would instead of chasing a ghost IMO.
Old 06-10-2009, 02:57 AM
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I go through 2quarts in less than 3k miles, leak down reveals that all cylinders at 5% leak with exception of cylinder 2 being 20% leak. After a wot run I can smell smoke but dont really see anything. It certainly seems to be consuming more oil since I've switched to royal purple. Was just running syntec before. Probally go back to syntec or try a thicker weight oil next. I have some mobil1 20w50 sitting around but thats more meant for turbo application....


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