nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Car has been 113mph full weight in 2300ft DA.

I've got a Midwest Chassis 9" on order with 3.89 gears. Once installed the driveline/suspension should be good. I choose 3.89's for future mods - heads/cam & spray.

Currently the car has 245/50/16 nittos and they obviously don't work well - 2.0 60ft's.

I'm considering these options:

1. MT Drag Radials on stock wheels. My T-type went low 1.5's with these tires - but it was an auto. I hear these tires don't work on stick cars.

2. Purchasing some Billet Specialties street lites and trying either a ET Street/Quicktime Pro or full out slick. Something in the 26x10x15 range.

Option 1 is considerably cheaper - but if the car doen't hook it's money wasted.

Option 2 should make the car hook but I'll have to switch tires at the track, which is a pain with a street car.

TAGOES11S

iTrader: (13)

Change the gears if you still can. Minimum go with a 4:10 gear. You most likely will want to run a 28 inch tire if you ever want to really hook. Which means you need a 4:10-4:33 gear. A 3.89 with a 6m is not a good gear, unless your trapping 140ish.

If you want a good recomendation, list your weight, RWHP, and we can estimate 1/4 top speed and gear/tire for that power level.

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Stock gear'd T-56. Monster Level 3 clutch/billet flywheel

TAGOES11S

iTrader: (13)

see my previous post, I just edited it....

Until you put heads/cam/spray a 26' et street would work just fine. Should be good for 1.6's with a bolt on car.

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

Skip the drag radials. I couldn't get my car to hook hard with them. I had to ride the clutch out and if track prep was not awesome it would still spin at times.

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Changed gears for 4.10's went with 26x11.5x15 ET Street on Billet Specialties Street Lites.

Eric @ Midwest Chassis is the man!

mike c.

iTrader: (1)

TAGOS11S-What do you consider really hooking before I add my 2cent?

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

Just how big of a shot are you going to run and what H/C setup are you going with? If you're running a bigger shot and a higher end H/C setup, you might be out of fourth gear going through the traps with those 4.10s, but you might be alright. 4.10s and a 7000 RPM limiter will JUST get you to 130. A high end H/C/I setup with a 150 shot should put you well past that; just a heads up.

But if you're really only concerned with the bolt-on setup for now then you definitely made the right choice with the 4.10s as anything lower and you'll either be bogging or slipping the clutch like crazy to get a decent 60' out of it. Those 11.5x15 ET Streets should be killer, too.

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

I'm looking for high 10's & 125mph. I haven't decided on the shot or the heads/cam yet.

If I run out of gear I can always go to a 28" tire or change the gear.

I'm hoping the tires work well - I'd like to be in the 1.6 range, I have no idea what to expect as this is my 1st manual car.

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

High 10s at 125 is cam and 100-150 shot territory depending on the cam, or mild H/C and 100 shot. My brother just went 11.200 at 124 in 85 degree heat at a not so great track with a cam and 100 shot. He does have a strong cam-only car, though. You can always swap the gearing down the road if you're having issues, though.

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Re running the numbers on the calculators and it look like I'm just going to make it thru the traps with this thing with the stock cam/limiter.

115mph, 26" tire with 1" tire growth is going to put me at 58xx
115mph, 26" tire without the growth is going to put me at 6100ish

Guess it's time to look putting a cam in it. Or at least changing the valve springs.

Edit - I thought the stock limiter was @ 6000rpm not 6200rpm.....I should be fine.

kierstyn

iTrader: (5)

You should be fine. On the 26/10.50 et streets my M6 went a 1.62 60ft on stock suspension.