fasttimes1

iTrader: (29)

Dont know if anyone on here would be able to help, but Ill try.

Im due for a brake pad change (light came on) on my A6 and have a question on the brake pads & rotors. I have been told by a few people that the factory brake rotors need to be replaced at about your second brake pad change. Their reasoning is that the rotors are constructed of soft metals which cause them to wear at a fast rate; designed this way for optimum braking. What is the truth to this? I have a hard time beleiving that I need to replace my rotors at 48,000 miles. Is there a min. thickness I should look for? Surely there has to be a min. thickness if they are designed to wear like this. I am not having any problems with my braking and the rotors still look like they have a lot of life in them.

I can do a brake job myself, but prefer taking this car to the shop/dealer to get any work done done. Unfortunately, it seems like they just want to charge me for rotors before even looking at them, makes no sense to me. All 4 shops have told me to bank on doing all 4 rotors.

Thanks

bigcraig

iTrader: (1)

There is a minimum thickness in mm on the hat of the rotor. All german cars use rotors made of softer metals to optimize braking performance and you are suppose to replace them. If they are above the minimum thickness and there isn't much of a lip on the edge of them, then you could just replace the pads. If you do that, and they are warped then the car will shake when you brake.

67Ranger

iTrader: (16)

if four shops told you the same thing, then its probably true. They are just trying to prepare you for paying for it so you dont get surprised by a big bill. Just remember that these guys do this every day, and probably know a little bit about it, and while one shop may try and screw you over, probably not 4 saying the same thing.

hardtop ss

iTrader: (10)

It's a must to change them,i had replace them on my wife's A6 at 50k.

Doomsday

iTrader: (8)

I would believe it. My friend has a BMW 545i that got $700+ quote at dealer for routine brake job. However, I would like to add that I test drove a 335i once which stopped on the dime. When I drove off it my SS, I thought my brakes were bad, but just really sucked compared to the Beemer.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

If it was me, I would put an indicator on the rotors to see how much run out if any there is. That is going to tell you if they're warped. If they're fine, then the next step would be to see what the minimum thickness should be. If they're out of spec, then you need to replace them. Simple.

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

remember that you have to pay Audi Tax. its just like BMW tax or Mercedes tax.

i'm not an audi mechanic, but i had an old summer job as the lot guy at a Porsche/Audi dealership. the wear sensor for the 'service brakes' light was only 50% through the pads. the rotor replacement ultimatley goes by the thickness of the rotor, but it might just come out to be approx every other pad change.

as an example of BMW Tax... a co-worker of mine needed the cat replaced on her Z3. her trusty local import mechanic told her it would be like $1400 cuz you have to replace hte entire intermediate pipe (which has the cat attached to it). I called around and 4 exhaust shops told me that you must replace the entire piece and cant do a cut and weld. I found the part on the web for $330 and was just about to do the job myself, when the 5th exhaust shop i called said he'd do a cut and weld cat replacement... $240 later she got her $1400 cat replaced.

so as you see, just because they do it all day, doesnt mean they arent trying to stiff you just because you got a 'luxury' car and they assume you dont know **** about cars.

fasttimes1

iTrader: (29)

I appreciate all the input. Thanks for validating the truth to the rotor wear. I do understand that just like any other rotor, the thickness ultimetly determines the life of the rotor. It just seemed as if it was a standard for brake shops to tell everyone the same thing to try and make their sale. That is exactly what it feels like when speaking to the shops slayer, I get treated like I dont know a damn thing...which in this case with the Audi I don't.

I agree in the fact that these guys know what they are talking about, but it just seemed a little silly for them to tell me I need rotors because they are too worn for just a pad change without even taking a look at them...but it is true that these guys do this everyday.

The rotors do not feel warped at all, brakes like a champ. Ill prob try and find out what the min. thickness is and either measure them myself or having the brake shop show me their measurement. Rotors are about $115 a piece, so dont want to replace if I dont have to; want to get the most life out of them.

Thanks again

slayer_taunu

iTrader: (3)

because rotors tend to develop a small 'lip' on the outer edge, you need a micrometer to measure them. I got one at harbor freight tools for real cheap. its good enough for what i need it for. i dunno about the Audi, but for my f-body, if you go to oreillyauto.com and go to brake pads/rotors for your car, scroll all the way to the bottom and it gives the rotor specs. Even if you dont feel any pulsing, its still a good idea to have the rotors machined, so you dont mess up your new pads.

TexVette

iTrader: (2)

I just had to do front brakes on my 2001 A4. A good friend of mine is head mechanic at an audi shop and he told me the exact same thing you've heard, that you've gotta replace rotors. He wouldn't recommend it to me unless it should be done that way.

I replaced everything and it drives great. Rotors weren't that expensive. ~$40/per iirc. Be careful with the pad wear indicators when installing and make sure they're routed correctly.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

A friend of mine used to be service consultant at an Audi/VW dealer. I can confirm, Audis and VWs require replacement of rotors, no resurfacing. You cannot cut OE rotors, they usually just unravel like yarn when you try.

You could change to a different brand of rotors but you may or may not like the affects on braking. If you do that, go with Brembo or ATE and a GOOD pad. Good luck.