SteelmanLS1

iTrader: (1)

It has SDCE/FMIC already with this kit and a 3.7" pulley.

I am running a stock motor (2000 intake) with P/S headers, P/S y-pipe, SLP LM1..

So far I need this to get it running correct me if I'm wrong please.

Also Please help me choose brands and etc.

-4.0" S/C Pulley
-Injectors
-Fuel pump
-Tune

CalSpeedPerformance

iTrader: (64)

Also for detail to help: You're going to be using the SDCE crank pulley (7.25")

SteelmanLS1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks! So is the 4.00" pulley the right size guys? I am looking for 8psi... Stock motor

EPP

iTrader: (22)

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=970
8 rib blower pulley. 4.00 to a 4.25 for your stock bottom end with the 7.25 crank pulley.

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=583
Siemens 60lb fuel injectors.

http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=777
Walbro fuel pump. Bob

SteelmanLS1

iTrader: (1)

TY Bob..

Now Bob,

How much HP will that F/P support? Because I don't plan on running this kit on a 4.0"-4.25" pulley very long. We own a Engine shop here in OKC so a rod/piston job isnt a big deal to us.

Gauge

iTrader: (3)

I would go ahead and get dual Walbros. The DIY install guide is stickied in the fueling and injection forum. It's easy, cheap, and supports quite a bit of power. If you were going to stick with 8psi, a single would probably be fine, but if you're going to raise the bar, go ahead and buy two of 'em.

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Lowering the compression with some truck heads would be a nice investment. Also, you will need the ATI superdamper to attach the crank pulley, but im sure you already knew that. As soon as you are ready to raise the bar, a set of forged pistons and some nice rods like compstar rods would let you go to 900hp or more. Good luck

CalSpeedPerformance

iTrader: (64)

SDCE 8-rib Crank pulley with adapter bolts right onto stock balancer with no problems. No ATI needed.

BlkHwk

iTrader: (8)

Pin Kit for the Crank.

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

wow thats awesome! never knew that there was an adapter method or provision for the stock crank pulley

dlandsvZ28

I would start from the get-go with a bigger radiator especially if you plan to run more boost then 8lbs. I am sure it is as hot or hotter in OK than it is here is KS. And maybe an alcohol kit it too.

You might get by with a stock radiator if you decide to yank the AC. It's the AC condensor that causes spikes in temps in city driving in addition to the lousy evacuation of engine bay heat in the f-body.

SteelmanLS1

iTrader: (1)

Oh really? I didn't know it was that big of a deal with a FMIC, I figured it helped keep temps down

dlandsvZ28

Two summers ago the tuner refused to keep tuning because the IAT's were so high and that was with a 97 radiator and ATI 3.5 intercoolers and at 6-7 lbs of boost.

My last tune after installing EPP's front mounted intercooler and in Feb when it was cool the IAT's were much better (SD tune btw).

But with temps what they were on Saturday in the 90's the engine bay was so hot you can't even touch the STB it is that hot. The aluminum inter-cooler pipe is almost as hot and the FMIC was hot too. That's after a 20 minute highway run at 70 mph - no boost with coolant temps right at 220 -230 with a BeCool radiator and Spal Extreme 3000 fan running the AC on highway and turning if off in city traffic - 16 degrees of timing.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/

I'm going to remove the seal at back of hood - some say that helps extract some of the engine bay heat - + I have an SLP Ultra Z hood that is vented in the front as to allow ambient air into the engine bay

Take my word for it - the ATI creates a lot of heat.

SteelmanLS1

iTrader: (1)

We will see, maybe I will get lucky and it will run cool...

Doubt it lol.

Do everyone run 160tstats?

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Yes, most run a 160 thermostat and adjust the tune for the fan to come on sooner. Bob

SteelmanLS1

iTrader: (1)

So will my stock radiator be okay for a little while?

BlkHwk

iTrader: (8)

I dont' remember my car ever getting hot with the stock ls1 and procharger. Once I put the larger motor in it did run hot with the procharger. I ordered a becool and it's been fine ever since. The only time it gets warm now is if I let it idle too long. I plan to add the 9" fan sometime. I'm pretty confident this will cure my warm idle thing. I would run the stocker and add the 9" spal and see how it does.

SteelmanLS1

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I will have the Procharger single fan assembly with stock radi.

dlandsvZ28

I posted because I wanted to make you aware that you might have overheating issues based upon the climate you live in and that fact that in the future you want to up the boost drastically.

The debate over this issue will continue probably for a long time simply because there are so many factors as listed below that contribute to overheating.

Power adder: Turbo or supercharger
Climate and elevation: (Minnesota vs Arizona or Texas)
Engine block: iron or aluminum
Electric water pump vs stock pump vs Evans Pump
Coolant ratio: Pure water vs 25% vs 50 % vs 100 percent Evans
Boost: running 6-7 lbs vs 10 -12 lbs.
Bypass: venting to atmosphere or recirculating
Transmission: Heat generating high stall TC with auto or six speed
Transmission Cooler: Isolated or in series with radiator
Fan: single 16 ATI vs custom dual 12 pullers vs a 16 and a 9 puller
Radiator: stock, 97 M6 version, or BeCool, Griffin, etc.
Shroud: shroud or no shroud
Hood: stock or custom
Hood: insulation intact or removed
Hood: cowl weather seal removed or intact
Hood: SS or custom with ram air in (heat soak)
Injection: Meth assist or not under boost
Timing: aggressive or safe
AC: Deleted or used
AC condensor: 100 percent efficient or 75 percent because bottom 25 percent is clogged.
Driving pattern: mostly city, hiway, or Saturday night street warrior

Lastly: If you are going to perform all of the labor yourself you can minimize the labor doing it once rather than installing cooling enhancements a little at a time:

For example: You will save a lot of labor and time if you install a bigger radiator and extra fan when you make the initial install of your ATI kit then later after everything is installed. A BeCool is not a drop in and it for sure is easier to install if the head unit if off rather than on the engine.

Same for the shroud: it's a lot easier to install the 9 inch fan from the get-go then to pull the fan shroud later after having to remove all of intercooler hoses and piples etc. This assumes you have ATI intercoolers vs an FMIC. It also is a lot easier to install if the head unit is off than on.

BTW - folks were in denial that any ATI system caused overheating back in 2005 - we know now they were wrong.

Tip: And don't even think about trying to install a BeCool if you have an EWP - it will not fit unless you custom design new hoses to run to the water pump and radiator.