dancrosoft

I have had a couple F Camaros now and it seems that the things that always go out over 100k are the fuel pump, water pump, O2 sensor... Anyone know of anything else that is a "pending failure" at 105k?

I am all about replacing parts before they fail if it is a known issues.

Replaced so far:

Stock water pump - Evans Pump
Stock Fuel Pump - Racetronix Pump < Next Month
All O2 Sensors
CAT - Warranty
Both Window motors.
Belts
All coolant hoses

question

iTrader: (2)

My injectors were NAAAASTY at 118k miles.
Knock sensors are hit an miss.
Don't forget about suspension components.
Are you on stock shocks?

ZeroFear

iTrader: (1)

might want to do a leakdown test at the 100k area to make sure your not on a time bomb. oh and the stock shocks are prolly already history. get a set of Konis if you have the dough, they last a long time.

+badss+

iTrader: (12)

well im at 92k and i have replaced my window motors but my driver is the one that broke i just replaced both so they are good for a bit now plan on replacing the motor and upgrading accessories

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Fix the cracks in the door panels. If you don't see them now, you will. (At a minimum, you should be able to see the stress line on the back of the panels.)

dancrosoft

Hmm. I dont know if i have the "skill" to replace injectors... lol

I am on stock shocks. I am noticing i need to get new ones soon.. Are those hard to install?

Weezzer

Yep, they last a looooong time, especially since they have a lifetime warranty.

question

iTrader: (2)

It is very easy.
Bleed the fuel line
Remove four bolts that hold the fuel rail down
Disconnect the fuel line
Disconnect throttle cable
Unplug injector electrical connection
Pull up and out removing the fuel rail with all 8 injectors attached
Remove all 8 injectors, spray fuel rail out generously with carb cleaner.
Install new injectors.
Put everything back together.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Rear shocks are pretty easy. Front ones can be moderately hard to a huge pain depending on how rusty the top of the shock mount is. I ended up having to cut my old shock's shaft to remove the spring and buy a new rubber shock mount on the passenger side because it was so fused together. Mine is a 98 with 122k miles, a northern all-year-round car. If yours is a summer only car (or if you live down south with no snow/salt) it probably won't be as bad as mine was.

dancrosoft

HA! That does not sound that bad! How much do those things actually run - for a car in a stock/daily driver situation.

dancrosoft

I have a wierd popping noise coming from the rear left side when I turn or put Gs on that side. (I think the shock is going and the spring is pooping because of it) Does that sound rite to anyone?

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Check your steering rack, make sure there is no leaking or excessive play. If you can, get an OEM off a low mileage car - better than Delco reman.

Try cleaning the injectors with Seafoam or a BG shop service. Do this every 30k. Keeping the injectors and intake tract clean will pay dividends in power and mileage. How often do you do fuel filters?

I'd throw some new Delco platinum plugs in too. You're probably ok, but 9 years...it's time.

You're overdue on shocks, they suck at mile 1. Konis are best, wish I had done them, but my Bilsteins were a big improvement in all areas with no downside. Only downside is Koni regret...shocks are the worst part of these cars and it WILL feel new to you afterwards. MANY people say this is their best mod, period. It did more for my car than all other suspension mods combined.

Flush ALL your fluids, including PS and brake. Obviously, the coolant, tranny, and diff are key also.

If your alternator tests good, keep it. Check the connector and find a low mile OEM unit (or US local reman) and have it on hand.

Same thing with AC comp as with rack and alternator. I got this done at a chevy dealer with lifetime p&l warranty - worth its weight in gold. Did this with alt and fuel pump also, wish I had done water pump too.

Keep all the fluids and filters fresh, to an **** level, lube the chassis and suspension, and these cars do pretty damn well. Keep that coolant fresh, change every 2 years - your engine and heater core will thank you.

If you're good otherwise, try BG's AC service. I picked up some flow and a great smell for months. The condenser gets funky over time and this keeps the car smelling new and cooling as well as it can. This one's not as critical, but sure makes the car nicer to drive...every time you turn on the air.

May as well replace BOTH turn signal/DRL sockets while you are at it. I promise they are burnt/burning.

EDIT: Almost forgot, if you don't have an Optima battery - GET ONE! This will save you a wrecker bill. My red top battery has gotten me 45 minutes of drive time with a zero output alt several times. If you drive the car often, get a red top, if not, get the yellow top. Optimas aren't as good as they used to be, but are still the best widely available car battery. I like Sam's - though I did see a used one at Advance I should have picked up for $35!

dancrosoft

[QUOTE=jmilz28;11782608]Check your steering rack, make sure there is no leaking or excessive play. If you can, get an OEM off a low mileage car - better than Delco reman.

Try cleaning the injectors with Seafoam or a BG shop service. Do this every 30k. Keeping the injectors and intake tract clean will pay dividends in power and mileage. How often do you do fuel filters? - Did a good seafoam 5k miles ago. - Change fuel filter ever 3rd oil change/9k miles.

I'd throw some new Delco platinum plugs in too. You're probably ok, but 9 years...it's time. - I have new Delco Plat in and a set of Thundervolt wires

You're overdue on shocks, they suck at mile 1. Konis are best, wish I had done them, but my Bilsteins were a big improvement in all areas with no downside. Only downside is Koni regret...shocks are the worst part of these cars and it WILL feel new to you afterwards. MANY people say this is their best mod, period. It did more for my car than all other suspension mods combined. - Thanks for the tip. I plan on doing shocks next month

Flush ALL your fluids, including PS and brake. Obviously, the coolant, tranny, and diff are key also. - All fluids have been flushed sometime in the last 20k miles. Also had a bad bearing in the diff. That was replaced.

If your alternator tests good, keep it. Check the connector and find a low mile OEM unit (or US local reman) and have it on hand. - Alt is good for now. I am going to spring for a new one someday .

Same thing with AC comp as with rack and alternator. I got this done at a chevy dealer with lifetime p&l warranty - worth its weight in gold. Did this with alt and fuel pump also, wish I had done water pump too.

Keep all the fluids and filters fresh, to an **** level, lube the chassis and suspension, and these cars do pretty damn well. Keep that coolant fresh, change every 2 years - your engine and heater core will thank you. - Just changed fluid/flushed 2 weeks ago. Put on an Evans Water Pump.

If you're good otherwise, try BG's AC service. I picked up some flow and a great smell for months. The condenser gets funky over time and this keeps the car smelling new and cooling as well as it can. This one's not as critical, but sure makes the car nicer to drive...every time you turn on the air. - Yea I need to do this..... They sell that at Autozone?

May as well replace BOTH turn signal/DRL sockets while you are at it. I promise they are burnt/burning. - HAHAHAHA already replaced.

EDIT: Almost forgot, if you don't have an Optima battery - GET ONE! This will save you a wrecker bill. My red top battery has gotten me 45 minutes of drive time with a zero output alt several times. If you drive the car often, get a red top, if not, get the yellow top. Optimas aren't as good as they used to be, but are still the best widely available car battery. I like Sam's - though I did see a used one at Advance I should have picked up for $35! -

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

BG stuff is shop performed only - bgfindashop dot com. Well worth it IMHO.

Good stuff!