Notmyvette

iTrader: (1)

I'm rebuilding an LS1 a 98 LS1 to make it even worse with the weak rod bolts, planning on changing the rod bolts but would not like to pay $100+ for Katech's nor get ARP's due to the weight difference. I'm pretty **** on things especially when I'm getting paid to do it for someone else, if there's a vibration or something ***** up im to blame.

Anyone use these rod bolts??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...5%7C240%3A1318

Please don't tell me just buy ARP's, worst came to worse I'm getting the Katech's but would like some comments on these. Anyone use them? These also seem to have the ferrule, which my rods dont have so could I use them anyway?
Thanks

dmiz0420

iTrader: (8)

sounds to me like the guy bought them from Fasten-all or Granger in bulk and sells them in sets of 16 for more $$.

fast377

iTrader: (52)

The only way to get the **** quality you seek, is to buy the Katechs. Are they expensive...yes, but worth every penny. Of all the places to save money, why pick your bottom end?

Super Speed

iTrader: (8)

It's one of the parts where you don't want to skip out on quality! Go with something tried and tested!

v8pwr

iTrader: (19)

I don't know about those bolts there as SPS makes a ton of different fasteners but SPS has made the upgrade fastener for Carillo rods for years . The SPS product line has a very broad range . I think MS Aerospace makes the Katech fastener .

v8pwr

iTrader: (19)

I don't know about those bolts there as SPS makes a ton of different fasteners but SPS has made the upgrade fastener for Carillo rods for years . The SPS product line has a very broad range . I think MS Aerospace makes the Katech fastener .

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

I've had experience with SPS, and I know they make good stuff...if those are actually SPS fasteners (and if my new rods hadn't come with ARP's in them)...I'd probably give them a try.

The guy is dissing ARP a bit in his auction and thats a bit uncalled for...very strict inspection and quality control brings prices of parts up sometimes...usually the smaller companies making good parts at lower cost are also not able to inspect as often or as well...doesn't necessarilly mean it's an inferior product...but there's less of a guarantee that it's a good product...but thats actually not the case with SPS's...they're a very reputable company.

bigboykilroy

iTrader: (48)

I also have a 98 and I went with the Katechs. Worth the money !!!

GMTECH4

rod bolts are one the last places i would short change! call sdpc and see how much gm bolts are, they also have arp bolts for $69.00 http://www.sdpc2000.com/product/ARP1...sRodBolts.aspx

LLC

SRS makes quality fasteners among other things. The ebay ad says SRS but there is no proof, no labeling, no nothing. My advice would be to stay away from them. The price is great and very appealing, almost too good to be true.

Katech bolts are $200 and made from H11 alloy steel. 200,000 psi yield strength.

ARP 8740 are $70ish and made from tempered chrome moly. 180,000 psi yield strength.

ARP 2000 are $90ish and made from tempered chrome moly with different processing. Up to 220,000 psi yield strength.

Too many people do "overkill" all to often. You will tear a factory rod in two before you break or stretch a 8740 rod bolt with anything under 800hp and only spinning 7400 rpms.

If you're concerned about the weight difference, before you do anything have all your stock stuff weighed first. You'll find as much as 30 grams difference overall.

Notmyvette

iTrader: (1)

Did you mean SPS? since you said SRS twice in your post......

I know some of the SPS rod bolts are made for nascar engines so they're not a "shady" name. But if it was a good upgrade I would "assume" more people would have used them.

Where do I get the Katech's and ARP's from?

Sucks, I used to work at Manley and we had boxes and boxes of the ARP 2000's for the Ford GT rods hah

But anyway where do I get the Katech's and ARP's from for the cheapest?

02gmc5.3

iTrader: (11)

I plan on giving the SPS bolts a try on my 5.3, not much to lose as I already have a low mileage back up short block.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

The ARP's you can get from almost any sponser. Katechs come from Katech (surprise) but have been on backorder the two times I tried to order them. Katechs are smaller and stock sized (almost) and if I were to simply swap them out on a stock bottom that is the only way I would go but on a rebuild there is no reason not to go ARP.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

The seller in that auction is a very reputable guy. I have delt with him on several ocassions. Those SPS bolts are the same as the stock replacement bolts you would get through GM. SPS is the manufacture of the factory rod bolts. I bought some of those Bolts from him but have yet to actually try them on any thing.


If your gonna balance the motor any way then just get the ARP's and save your money. Make sure you have the rods checked for bore distortion though after they are installed.

I already had mine balanced and assembled. I later decide to upgrade the rod bolts. So rather then shell out to rebalance and tear everything apart I Purchased the Katechs. They are the closest to a stock rod bolt weight. I am very Picky and even though I followed the torque and stretch procedure on the factory rod bolts, I wasn't satisfied. I always like to follow up with a tourqe wrench to see if they all have the same tension on them. I found one rod bolt that would not take a torque reading that was the same as the others. This scared the crap out of me and I attempted to redo the procedure and double check it. I decide not to risk it. Mostlikely I would say that one bolt had an issue. All the new Katech bolts went in with out any issues.

Katech is a sponser on this site. They have a little banner to the right side of the screen or here is there site.

http://www.katechengines.com/katech_inc/

If you dont like the price of the ARP's Be prepaired to be really offended when you see there price.... LOL But I still think there worth every penny

LOL there having 10% off this month

Notmyvette

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the link, although theyre on backorder I just don't know about spending 200 on bolts, if it was MY motor for my car I would but its not my car. and being like you I would not want to use the ARP's withouth being rebalanced and resized.


So buying the SPS bolts would be the same as if I bought a new set from the stealership you're saying? Do you have any proof that SPS made the stock GM rod bolts? Could I even use them if my rods dont have the ferrules?

deadhorse66

iTrader: (2)

You have to use a doweled rod with the corresponding bolt, period. One of my buddies blew one up like that. His rods had Katechs in them and he put stockers back in, and 30 miles later, clunk clunk, squeal squeal. Spun a rod bearing.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

I will try and get you the pictures tonight of the bolts from that guy and the stock ones I took out. Edit: At this time I can not find the proof I thought I had about that information.

I Willl be back around 8pm PST

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

SPS is quality stuff, before that (and ARP) the hot ticket was "Pioneer" fasteners. Not sure anyone here goes back that far...

Russ

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

Ok Here is the pictures I promissed. The Bolt with the penny on the bottom is a factory rod bolt that I removed from my rods. The one next to it is the SPS rod bolt from seller you refferd to in the auction. BTW his name is Jay

The head on the SPS bolt is a little bit taller than the factory one. Thats about it... I believe the extra little thread on there has something to do with allowing them to work in the early rods Like what you have... Not 100% sure though as I have no early ones to compare to...

BTW I could not find the info about factory rod bolts being produced by SPS so untill I do, I will retract my previous statement about such Information.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

Some Helpfull Stock Rod bolt Info.

Revised Rod Bolt Tightening Procedure- http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...rod_bolts.aspx
Factory Rod Bolt Identification- http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...u_engines.aspx