Black FormulaLs1

iTrader: (10)

my sister has a 2004 chrysler sebring and cant get the damn oil drain plug out..i havent seen it yet but her husband used to work at an oil change shop so i am confident he knows how to remove it...problem is the damn thing WILL NOT BUDGE!!!

he's hit it with WD40 and PB Blaster...NOTHING IS HELPING..she just seafoamed the car..and needs to change the damn oil but the plug wont come out!!!

please i know there is an assload of technical help here on all cars..please help me fix this!!!

Gregg

PM's are welcome!!

Blue85350

iTrader: (1)

is the head rounded off or is it just overtightened? if the head is rounded off, you could try to lock on with a pair of vice grips and hit them with a hammer and see if that works. other options include a hammer and a chisel(old school but it works, sometimes) or an air hammer and a chisel(not my recommendation but it works). if its just overtighted link up a couple wrenches and pull like hell.

Black FormulaLs1

iTrader: (10)

i am headed down there this weekend and will see if i can muscle it into submission but keep the ideas commin!!! any other solvents i should try???

SweetS10V8

iTrader: (4)

Weld a large nut, from the inside of the nut, to the bolt. Gives you a new large surface to turn it out with.

Use a breaker bar if needed.

Black FormulaLs1

iTrader: (10)

good idea but dont have a welder...can you rent those from autozone or soemthing?

Black FormulaLs1

iTrader: (10)

will the seafoam sitting in the car overnight hurt the car any? the car idled with the engine flush in it for 5-7 mins..will it be okay to sit until iget down there?

cyacops

iTrader: (1)

get a twelve point socket that you can ruin that is one size smaller than the plug, pound it on with a hammer and try to loosen it that way if it is rounded out, then get a new plug.....it worked for me one time

Black FormulaLs1

iTrader: (10)

ttt for any other ideas!!!

Black FormulaLs1

iTrader: (10)

ttt anything else you garage kings can help with?

AJK381

iTrader: (2)

alot of plugs just kind of lock when they are tight, you just have to give them a good hit sometimes. be carefull pounding sockets on depending on what kind of pan it is, alum or steel. you could dent/crack it.

Para67camaro

If it is not rounded off use a breaker bar like SWEETS10V8 said. Those can be made from PVC pipe. It is an extension to your wrenche's/ratchet's leverage, making the handle longer.

silverbeast

iTrader: (16)

get an impact gun.... if that wont take it off it aint coming off.

Blue85350

iTrader: (1)

i knew guys at the dealer did that for all cars. or the makita cordless for every car.

mechanix565

if the head aint rounded yet get a propane torch and heat it up till its cherry red then itll come right off

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

All of these methods have helped me remove every bolt you can imagine.

Heat up surrounding area with propane torch (female area expands from heat loosening the bolt)

Freeze off or whatever its called. Spray on bolt, bolt metal contracts breaking the metal fusion and loosening bolt

Take 12pt socket as mentioned that can be hammered on. Clean bolt with laquer thinner, brake kleen, anything to clean the surface, and coat the bolt head, and the socket with JB weld. Then hammer that ****** on and let it sit for 24 hours and back it out. The JB will not only adhere to the bolt but will fill in any rounded areas and voids between the socket and bolt head thus making it fit exact

A shame you dont have a welder. Ive welded a few sockets, extentions, and bolts directly to bolt head. A cheepo Farm Hand Flux wire welder works fine they are about $130.

For penetrating oil i use PB blaster. The only thing that works better than that is Krisoil i believe its called. You can only get it at GM dealerships but its the best.

If the worst comes to worst man just do this. Guess the size of the thread in oil plug bolt. Get a bit about 1/8" smaller and drill a new hole through the bolt then tap that bolt to accept a smaller bolt. Or drill it out bigger and re-tap oil pan. Or drill it our just barely smaller than oil pan threads and try to carefully dremel thread ring away (should only be about 3 or 4 thread rings in the actual pan holding just make sure you dont lose the rest of the bolt in the pan).

The one posibility is you took that car to an oil change shop who stripped the bolt out. They used red thread locker to put it back in and seal the threads. I had a previous owner do that to my magnesium transfercase plugs on my 3000GT. Its great.

726.0chevelle

iTrader: (17)

kroil is the best solvent

USArmyZ28

iTrader: (3)

http://www.ammunitiontogo.com/catalo...specialty-ammo

Jk, but welding on a new bolt/nut is a really good idea. You should be able to rent one from autozone or a construction equipment rental store.

Black FormulaLs1

iTrader: (10)

thanks for the help guys..when i got down to the car it didnt have anything left to put a socket/wrench onto and there wasnt hardly anything left to weld a nut onto...so we wound up loostening th emotormount and then dropping the pan...not really hard but w/a pan full of oil still a pita...however we did get the pan down only to find out that the buddy that did the oil change last used locktie and a freakin impact!!!! \
thankfully my brohter inlaw had a 4" grinder and we cut what was left of the headbolt and ground it down as far as we could get..then used vice grips on the backside of the plug and evidently the heat from the grinder broke the loc-tite free and we backed it out with no pan damage...needless to say if we can find the buddy its gonna be his ***...

Blue85350

iTrader: (1)

glad it all worked out for ya.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

jesus i think most on here have forgotten how easy it is to drop the pan when you dont have to pull the K member. Notice how no one suggested pulling the pan??