OutToWinPAHC

iTrader: (10)

I run a heads/cam LS in my 240sx. Small bay, nice size aluminum radiator, fan shroud with 2 10inch 1300cfm pullers.

I run a 160 degree T-Stat, Tuned of coarse, water only with water wetter. I see the head temp via the ECU, and I also view the bottom hose via an autometer guage, this is the hot side correct.

The other week when it was in the 80's at traffic light out I saw temps nearing 225-230 at the ECU head water temp sensor, and 215 at the autometer gauge.

I have read ranges from 210-220 on a F-Body is normal, but I may be paranoid. What is the safe temp range? Moving temp seem to hold 210-220 head and 200-210 autometer at the bottom hose.

I just want to be safe, shed been bled too.

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

Personally, I would be a little nervous. I would set the fans to kick on a little lower. I don't know if you're running a transmission cooler or not, but, you don't want your tranny fluid NEARLY that hot. Anything over 200 and you start running into issues. (if using stock radiator with internal tranny cooler).

And for the record, I don't trust the factory gauges at all. I would go with your autometer temp.

ND2RACE

Seems a little on the warmer side to me, my cammed, forged LQ4 useing basically stock cooling system stays in the 190s.

OutToWinPAHC

iTrader: (10)

Fans are tuned for the 160 t stat but I also use an interlocking relay I rigged up to override the relays without the ECU knowing so I have been turning them on with ignition, from start.

I run a huge trans cooler, for vehicles GVW to 26,000 lbs, trans temp is cool

Old photo of trans cooler location 6-8 inchs off rad.

Newer engine shots, the bay is tight.

OutToWinPAHC

iTrader: (10)

nd2race from what temp sensor location?

Tuner@Straightline

We had this issue with a 383cui LS6 we put in a RX-7, at idle it would get to tempatures above 230, but as soon as the rpms were above 1400rpm, the car would cool down to the 200's. Our solution was a Meizer electric waterpump, this kept coolant flow at idle sufficient enough for the radiator to keep the car cool.

As far as safe operation ranges, a factory file doesn't have the fans turn on until the 220's, the reason for keeping the motor that hot was for emissions purposes..

OutToWinPAHC

iTrader: (10)

Yeah it takes a while to get up to those temps and they will stay there at the head when stopped after running a while. Moving it cools down of coarse, not right away. I was thinking it may be the small engine bay, holding in the heat. At idle my intake air temp is high too because if the intake location resting on the rad (150's), but moving with the throttle plate open it drops into the 90's -105ish. Thinking about upgrading to 2300 cfm fans from the 1300s

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

when my tune was factory i saw low 230s sitting in traffic at 90+ degrees. I would take off WOT to see if i got any detonation but never at all. It pulls like a champ at 230+. Now my fans are tuned to keep me around 200.

OutToWinPAHC

iTrader: (10)

Yeah it takes a while to hit that temp. My headers need ceramic coating, and larger fans should help. I think my engine bay is holding heat, my intake rest on the radiator, and the fans could be better. If I fix those issue I can only hope to see 215 max