What's needed to do a cam swap? Suggestions and info
06-26-2009, 09:11 PM
#1
What's needed to do a cam swap? Suggestions and info Since heads are a big to do I am thinking about just doing a cam to get my 11.5 a little easier. So my bee-hive springs are rated to .600 or .615 lift. What would be a good cam for my car given the Comp Magnum 1.85 ratio rockers I am using to make the most use of the springs?
Also the intake would need to come off, water pump, accs... heads can stay on though? What gaskets will I need and or other parts? My stock lifters have 36k miles but should I change them? What type to go with and where to get?
Also the intake would need to come off, water pump, accs... heads can stay on though? What gaskets will I need and or other parts? My stock lifters have 36k miles but should I change them? What type to go with and where to get?
06-26-2009, 10:01 PM
#2
You have to remove the coil packs , you can unbolt the rocker-shaft assembly to release pressure on the lifters. Rotate the engine through at least two complete revolutions. The Gen III small-block uses a plastic valve-lifter guide that captures the lifter when it pops up (from lobe lift) when there is no spring pressure load against it. This guide will hold the lifter in place so you can remove and replace the cam without having to remove the intake manifold. After removing the belt and water pump, you'll need to yank the harmonic damper. This will require some heft (nut power) because there is major torque on this bolt. Then use a standard balancer puller. Then you'll have to remove the timing-chain cover and line up the marks on the cam gear with the crank gear. This will make reassembling the new cam easier. That's about it in a nut shell. There is some work to be done. If you have the time, the tools, and the space then do it if not wait save your money have a professional do it right. The only thing about you doing it if you never have is that if you blow it up its on you.
Now lifters the LS7 lifters they are much better at higher RPM's and I don't know what RPM you are going to be up to and shifting at now. The LS1 lifter realistically is good till about 6500 RPM. SO i you are now shifting at 6500 your pushing it to the limit every hard shift. I will also warn you if you keep the stock heads do not think that you will see amazing results.
I don't know the rest of your set up but usually you will need exhaust for any cam swap unless you are doing an LS6 cam or another version of the stock LS1 cam. Then realistically it is not worth it. If your keeping your heads spend some money have the ported and polished don't mill them and add new springs and retainers. I my self like the Patriot Gold Extreme 650 lift no issues. Is your car stick or auto if auto you'll need a stall also and might need new gears to really feel what you have done. And don't forget the tune don't be a jack *** and not tune it before you do a WOT pull, or running it hard to the tuner and wonder why your engine is spewing smoke after you blow it because it was running way too lean.
If there is anything i missed am sorry and I am sure there are people with plenty of advice waiting to give it also. Good Luck to you
Now lifters the LS7 lifters they are much better at higher RPM's and I don't know what RPM you are going to be up to and shifting at now. The LS1 lifter realistically is good till about 6500 RPM. SO i you are now shifting at 6500 your pushing it to the limit every hard shift. I will also warn you if you keep the stock heads do not think that you will see amazing results.
I don't know the rest of your set up but usually you will need exhaust for any cam swap unless you are doing an LS6 cam or another version of the stock LS1 cam. Then realistically it is not worth it. If your keeping your heads spend some money have the ported and polished don't mill them and add new springs and retainers. I my self like the Patriot Gold Extreme 650 lift no issues. Is your car stick or auto if auto you'll need a stall also and might need new gears to really feel what you have done. And don't forget the tune don't be a jack *** and not tune it before you do a WOT pull, or running it hard to the tuner and wonder why your engine is spewing smoke after you blow it because it was running way too lean.
If there is anything i missed am sorry and I am sure there are people with plenty of advice waiting to give it also. Good Luck to you
06-27-2009, 06:53 AM
#4
I have all the good bolt-on stuff... 3" to 4" Flowmaster merge, 3.70's in a 9" and 3700 Circle-D stall. I was going to hold off on heads since they do gain some power but have mixed feelings about them. It will get a tune and I may add the 42 lb injectors I have before taking it in.
06-27-2009, 12:10 PM
#5
The cam depends on what your application is. A 236 - 240 600/600 with a 4400 stall is great for track use but a 3700 stall might work. I would do either 3.73 or 4.11 gears on the auto I am running a vigi 3400 and I am running a 232/238 600/600 109LSA, RPM stage II mated to a ZO6 3.42 and hardened output shaft. My heads are Lloyd Elliot's 241's flowing 305@600. I see the track like 1ce a month. and Its a daily driver.
Last edited by 02*C5; 06-27-2009 at 12:15 PM.
06-28-2009, 11:31 PM
#6
I found a good deal on a cam to work with my 1.85 rockers. It is a Comp XR277HR with these specs:
224/228 .534"/.537" which with the 1.85's will be .581"/.584" lift. I can pick it up for $180.
It will work fine with my springs and just need to know whether I should get LS7 lifters and what gaskets/parts I need to do the swap. I assume I can just reuse the stock chain and do I need to mess with the oil pump or is it fine? Car only has 36k miles on it.
224/228 .534"/.537" which with the 1.85's will be .581"/.584" lift. I can pick it up for $180.
It will work fine with my springs and just need to know whether I should get LS7 lifters and what gaskets/parts I need to do the swap. I assume I can just reuse the stock chain and do I need to mess with the oil pump or is it fine? Car only has 36k miles on it.
06-29-2009, 12:45 AM
#7
Thunder racing has gasket packages for cam swaps.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=3&pcid=157
A new oil pump might be good peace of mind, but not required, new pushrods, if doing LS7 lifters that will be a for sure. LS2 timing set, cheap and better then stock.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=3&pcid=157
A new oil pump might be good peace of mind, but not required, new pushrods, if doing LS7 lifters that will be a for sure. LS2 timing set, cheap and better then stock.
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06-29-2009, 01:50 PM
#9
The timing chain I have done every time regardless of the miles, because really that is what drives the cam. You are using a new cam, new springs (must) really if you do a cam swap like your supposed to you should either have new heads if the ones you have are stock, or have your stock ones ported. New springs and retainers are a must. DO not use or be talked into buying these so called Titanium (Ti) no maintenance retainers pieces of crap for daily drivers. The oil pump is peace of mind. Again your old pump was set to be used with original cam and so on. It Be a good idea. A ported LS6 I think Texas Speed sells them at a great price or a Melling I have used the Melling and no issues.
06-29-2009, 02:03 PM
#10
I ordered the FAST today and stuff to do the cam swap. They didn't think with my mileage I needed to do a pump or chain since some go 100k plus miles no problems. I reusing the stock lifters too. This should be good for a while and get me to 11.5. I ever decide I want more I will upgrade the other pieces at that time if I ever decide to do heads but since I don't want a bar I doubt it.
I'm only tearing this bitch down once. Should put up some numbers! 