Steve88

iTrader: (5)

I have a GM LS1 crate motor in my 67 Firebird and I just got it running and the starter works when it wants to. When it doesn't work the starter clicks and bendix comes out but does not spin the motor over. The starter is new and I had it rechecked at the auto parts store and it checks good. I thought maybe there was a ground issue but I can't imagine what the problem could be because the battery is in the trunk and I have 0 Gauge cable running from the battery to the starter battery post and a 0 gauge cable from the ground side of the battery to the engine block with a 0 gauge jumper from the block to the frame and from the frame to the body. I also added a 2 gauge jumper from the starter bolt to the block just to make sure that the starter had a good ground path. I had the battery tested also and it is good. I am thinking that the starter is weak even though it passes the auto parts store test but I am open to any ideas that anyone has. Thanks for you help.

Dirty Dog

iTrader: (2)

When it doesn't want to work, can you short across the terminals and start it? If so, I would think switch/wiring. If not I would wonder about it just being weak or possibly having a dead spot.

Steve88

iTrader: (5)

No it wont start that way either. I added a second 10 gauge wire to the start post and went straight to the battery with it and it still would not start. I am taking the starter to a local place that rebuilds starters and alternators and they claimed that if there was a problem with it they would find it so at this point I hope they find something wrong with it!! Thanks for the reply.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Take the solenoid apart and clean everything up. There is a copper disk in the solenoid that jumpers across the two big lugs on the outside. The disk can get pitted from the arcing and not conduct well.

Usually just filing the disks and lugs down with emery paper then cleaning out all the debris will fix it.

Steve88

iTrader: (5)

This morning I took the starter to a reputable rebuilder and they could not find anything wrong with it so I am back at square one. I went over all of the cables again today and everything looks in order. I added a couple of more 2 gauge ground straps and still the same problem. Anyone else have any ideas before I have a stroke!

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Even though they say it's a good starter, if you replace it, your problems will probably go away.

Steve88

iTrader: (5)

I am thinking the same thing but if I go drop $200 on a new starter after spending $120 on this one and if the new one does the same thing it will likely push me right over the edge!

bmxmon

iTrader: (5)

Here you go: http://www.jegs.com/p/Thermo-Tec/The...44857/10002/-1

I bet your starter doesn't like to work after you've driven your car for awhile eh? If your headers are running too close it is probably getting "heat soaked." I went through a ton of starters (Spent stupid $$$) in my mustang before I figure out I just needed a heat shield. It didn't even appear like my headers were that close to it, but you'd be surprised just how bad the heat can screw up a starter. It sure confused me and took along time to figure out!

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Where did you get the Starter you have at the moment?

bkw12345

It's easy to overlook the small things.

Not to offend you but have you verified battery voltage output?

I would get a voltmeter and test it at the battery and then also test it at the wires connected to the starter?

Steve88

iTrader: (5)

The problem ended up being the starter itself. I had checked and rechecked everything multiple times and I could of think of anything else it could be so I went down to the parts store and bought a new starter and everything works great!

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Sometimes it's like that..someone said that up there..

Steve88

iTrader: (5)

I had the starter checked out at 2 different places and they could find nothing wrong with it but I guess it goes to show that a test bench just can't simulate real world conditions.

Dirty Dog

iTrader: (2)

Test benches are not testing with a high compression engine to turn over...

cutlass_455

iTrader: (2)

I had a problem when I first fired up my Olds engine a few years back. I would roll the engine like one out of every 10 tries. It was a brand new mini starter and when it rolled it rolled so nice it was wierd. I took it back to the store, and they gave me another one, and that one worked fine. But what I ended up thinking was that the first starter was actually made a bit off and didnt line up properly with the flexplate when I hit the key. The bolts didnt go into it smoothly or nothing. Could your problem have been a misaligned starter or a starter that didnt fit properly??

Steve88

iTrader: (5)

I think that the starter was either physically misaligned as you suggested or it lacked power to push the bendix out and mesh the gears properly. If the gears meshed it would turn the motor over no problem so I think the starter motor itself was fine so the gears not meshing was the issue so I think either situation could have been the case.