Ball joint and tie rod end replacement tips
07-09-2009, 07:37 PM
#1
Ball joint and tie rod end replacement tips Hey guys, I'm getting ready to do ball joints and tie rod ends on my car, and was wanting some tips and how-to's on replacement. I have a bad ball joint, and just decided to replace everything, since I found a great deal on a whole kit with upper and lower ball joints, and inner and outter tie rods, on both sides, on eBay. I figure it can't be too hard to do myself, since I am mechanically inclined, and would like to save myself some money, as opposed to getting raped by a shop for the job. So, if anyone has a how-to, or tips on replacement, it'd be greatly appreciated.
07-09-2009, 08:11 PM
#2
get new rubber bushings to put in the control arms so you only have to have it alined once and you will be glad you did some play will be in your caster bushings. put rent a ball joint installer and remover and use that on the lower ball joint having a impact wrench is a life saver. also the top you will have to drill out the rivets and bolt the new one in and the tie rod you will need to rent a tool to do the inner and the outer you will be self exlpainatory when you see it. but the boot will need to come off the inner to get it off.
07-10-2009, 11:16 AM
#3
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I just did this **** this past weekend actually. The tie rod ends were a snap and the only thing that sucked about the uppers was drilling out the rivets. The lowers SUCKED. None of the ******* presses I rented worked so I just took the control arms off and took them to a friend to have the lowers pressed in for me. Other than that it wasn't bad just took some time. Have the right tools and yes air tools FTW!
07-11-2009, 02:29 AM
#4
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advance will usually will RENT a ball joint kit for ya.
did it on my truck .. yes my 07...... once i got everything needed.. took about 6 hours start to finish ( never did ball joints)
did it on my truck .. yes my 07...... once i got everything needed.. took about 6 hours start to finish ( never did ball joints)
07-11-2009, 09:05 AM
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I agree with the comments about replacing the bushings while you already in there. Just makes good sense, as you've already got it apart anyway.
When you press in the ball joints, make sure they start in straight or you'll ruin a control arm.
When you remove the tie rod ends, count the number of turns they are threaded in, and put the new ones back in the same number of turns. That way your alignment won't be completely out to lunch.
When you're done, make your first stop while driving at the alignment shop. The alignment will be out enough to cause severe tire wear.
When you press in the ball joints, make sure they start in straight or you'll ruin a control arm.
When you remove the tie rod ends, count the number of turns they are threaded in, and put the new ones back in the same number of turns. That way your alignment won't be completely out to lunch.
When you're done, make your first stop while driving at the alignment shop. The alignment will be out enough to cause severe tire wear.
07-11-2009, 11:39 AM
#6
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I rented three different presses from Autozone and all three of them had a fucked up adapter with them. So I just said **** it and took the ENTIRE control arm off. The ball joints aren't that bad unless it's the first set the car needs. BUT once you do it it's a snap. You're gonna need some extra bits to drill out the top rivets unless you have an air chisel or something like that. I broke about 4 bits drilling them all out. Oh and with the tie rod ends I just left the nut in place and screwed the tie rods up to them... I don't see why that wouldn't work. I'm waiting to go get an alignment and some new tires. But of course it's not being driven. Oh and good luck and have fun!
07-11-2009, 11:40 AM
#7
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I agree with the comments about replacing the bushings while you already in there. Just makes good sense, as you've already got it apart anyway.
When you press in the ball joints, make sure they start in straight or you'll ruin a control arm.
When you remove the tie rod ends, count the number of turns they are threaded in, and put the new ones back in the same number of turns. That way your alignment won't be completely out to lunch.
When you're done, make your first stop while driving at the alignment shop. The alignment will be out enough to cause severe tire wear.
When you press in the ball joints, make sure they start in straight or you'll ruin a control arm.
When you remove the tie rod ends, count the number of turns they are threaded in, and put the new ones back in the same number of turns. That way your alignment won't be completely out to lunch.
When you're done, make your first stop while driving at the alignment shop. The alignment will be out enough to cause severe tire wear.
Are you talking about the sway bar bushings?
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07-11-2009, 03:14 PM
#8
Thanks for the info guys. As far as the bushings go, should I go with this kit? http://www.car-stuff.com/carparts/ch...64g408117.html
07-11-2009, 03:27 PM
#9
One thing you MUST know is that the ball joint press that you rent DOES NOT DOES NOT come with the master install kit which has more tubes with it. Our cars require special tubes with angles in them and a special diameter that doesn't come with the kit.
I was fortunate enough to have some pipes laying around and I was able to make the large and small angled tubes I needed to get this done.
I didn't have air tools and it was hell.... very hard to get the new parts installed. But what was funny is the factory ball joint pressed back in as easy as 1 2 3.
Also if I remember correctly, you have to have the press with the threaded shaft FACING DOWN to install. So jack up your car with plenty of room to spare or you will regret it.
I was fortunate enough to have some pipes laying around and I was able to make the large and small angled tubes I needed to get this done.
I didn't have air tools and it was hell.... very hard to get the new parts installed. But what was funny is the factory ball joint pressed back in as easy as 1 2 3.
Also if I remember correctly, you have to have the press with the threaded shaft FACING DOWN to install. So jack up your car with plenty of room to spare or you will regret it.
07-11-2009, 09:31 PM
#10
bushing you need are moog kits for the upper and lower will need 2 of each kit. you dont want the poly because you will be back in there doing it all over again in no time at all.
