tkimrey

iTrader: (16)

While doing my cam swap I thought there had to be a faster way to remove the pulley than: after you have removed the crank bolt thread it back in and put your pulley puller on and pull it until it reaches the bolt, then take the puller off and back the crank bolt out some more and do it again until the pulley comes all the way off. So I decided to put a 6" extention, 1/2" drive in where the crank bolt was and put my pulley puller on and have the bolt that's on the puller go into the end of the extention and then just start crank the bolt on the puller until the pulley came all the way. Didn't have to stop to move the crank bolt out a little at a time.

Thought this was a little easier on the threads and I don't know if anyone has done it before so I thought I would throw it out there.

mknight759

iTrader: (8)

that will work as long as it doesnt affect the threads

jlrz28

iTrader: (7)

A guy locally gave this to me, it worked really well. Just slide it up in the snout and continue to crank to remove pulley.

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

...Or use a deepwell socket the fits into the middle of the pulley but big enough to not go in the bolt threads. If you are dead set on using the extension put a socket on the end so it doesn't go into the threads. Or go get a M16 2.0 bolt longer then stock to thread in all the way but have enough to make the puller useable.

LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

Be careful here. I have done this a few times, but once for some reason the socket started turning while it was on the crank snout and of course I couldnt tell since its hard to turn anyway... well... it didnt hurt the threads but it carved the **** out of the crank snout. I didnt like that one bit....

f-bodyguy

iTrader: (9)

same here it turned on me and did some shaving and i wasnt a fan..be carefull

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

Never had that problem. Maybe the puller I used had a deal on the end that would spin, I don't know. Although even if it did mark up the end of the crank, what's it going to hurt? Nothing even touches it.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

i cant understand people who want to re-invent the wheel. You risked damaging your crank threads with a $2 extension bc you didnt feel like turning a bolt a couple times? Quite frankly that sounds like a **** poor decision. Maybe you should just go buy a new outfit or a new pair of shoes and put the tools down. Sissy

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

The method on LS1howto is completely wrong, so if that is what you are using good luck. The real **** poor decision is to follow the method on that web site. Sounds to me like the guys here realized that ahead of time and used an alternate method. The only downfall of their method was they needed a larger surface area against the crank snout but better the end of the snout than the threads if something is damaged.

tkimrey

iTrader: (16)

Are you just jealous I tried something I thought was different or outside of the so called box that you apparently live in?? Something must be shoved way to far up you *** to make a comment like this you piece of ****. And what's with the sissy comment?? That makes absolutely no sense to me, or are you jealous that I can actually do my own work on my car, whereas you have to pay someone to do it for you??

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

ha thats a good one, just earlier today i offered to rebuilt a ten bolt for a case of beer and i dont even know the guy. You are dumber then you look.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

And you clearly state in your first post that you were looking for a "faster" way to get the pulley off, come up with some shade-tree method that could possibly ruin crank threads and then come post it and expect some praise and a pat on the back. Let me ask you this, if its such a great idea why dont you call up kent Moore and tell them about it? Your response prolly would be "but i dont have his number" Are you gonna pay to fix someones crank when they mess it up using your genious method? There is a correct puller and a correct method for using that puller to accomplish this task. Thats what you should be recommending on this public forum.

tkimrey

iTrader: (16)

Is that suppose to impress me?? And, I didn't know you've ever seen me before hmmm...weird...

From the looks of it I'm not the only one who has tried another method to remove the crank pulley. Did your boyfriend not give to you good last night or what? Oh, I'm also sorry Mr. Mechanic God, I didn't have time to order a tool from the internet and wait a week for it to come in, some of us do have actual lives that are going on. So why don't you

LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

And that makes you smart? In the words of the Joker "If you're good at something never do it for free!"

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

it wasnt free.....it was for a suitcase ah i just enjoy doing it, plus rebuilding a 10 bolt is so easy you could do it with your eyes closed. Hardly work at all really.

Chris@Straightline

iTrader: (1)

ill get a pic up for you guys later but i just take a stock bolt and cut most of the built in washer off. i put a small spacer over the bolt and thread it down till it seats on the snout of the crank, then put my puller on. this way you can pull the pulley all the way off in one motion and there is no possibility of damaging the crank threads.

1badWS6

iTrader: (32)

Which part of that method is wrong? Care to share?

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

Or go to fastenal and get a bolt without a built is washer...? I don't understand what is so complicated here.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

You don't use the threads for removal of the damper (pulley), you need to press against the end of the crankshaft. I made a small steel piece to push against, others have different methods but using the stock bolt and backing it out a small amount at a time can result in thread overloads and damage. Do a search, there are countless threads on this.

Same for installation, make a tool don't use a bolt longer or otherwise.

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

Wow....what was this thread about again? Let's play nice now.