MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

First time had a problem. It was around 80 today not that hot.I had the air on usually don't bother and was doing intown driving . I didn't pay attention to temp then noticed it was 230 and pulled over and shut car down but it still hit like 250 .No boilover though. I run 50/50 water ,antifreeze and bottle of redline water wetter. Fans are set to come on both at 170 ,off at 160.
160 stat.
Been out in hotter weather and no overheat. I was dickign with tuning and maybe leaned out the car a bit too much and that would of coures make it run hotter too. So have to be watching it more carefully from now on. On the way home with old tune flashed back in the car ran like 180 no air on.

I may have to get a big rad and mabye high flow water pump for next season. Oh well you make sacrifices for the big power builds.Aps did say might need better cooling system in their instruction manual.


So you guys can tell me what you did for rads and stuff again and how they have been working out for you since you upgraded. Choises would likely be a becool or ron davis rad and maybe an edelbrock high flow water pump.

ls2 bait

iTrader: (11)

just an fyi turning the car off and not putting some sort of fan on it can cause the temps to rise even higher as it will heat soak as the water pump isnt pushing coolant thru it anymore and no air is traveling over the radiator.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Well didn't really have a choice. The fans were running and it was getting hotter didn't realize that air was on almost never use it .So parked it right away and did throw on the fans forced them on manually luckly had my laptop in the car but just remembered my aeroforce gauges can also force on the fans. Temps came down ok with fans on even though no airflow or waterpump.Car drives fine. No problems. Not a good idea to keep driving when its overheating and hope it comes down. I dont have aluminum block
have iron block but still aluminum heads.

Still can't believe had zero problems with the car with no air on but put it on accidentally and it goes up so fast. As said time to get a bigger rad and high flow water pump. Don't usually get that hot up here anyway and only for a month or so.

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

airflow with these kits isn't very good. I cut out my front bumper and the aps air tunnel so that I could get air directly to the intercooler. What I did helped out a lot, but if I am stuck in traffic, I can't run the ac. Cruising at anything above 45 the temps are normal, but it starts to heat up slowly if i am in really slow traffic.

here are some pics of mine https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...support-2.html

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

So even with the Ron davis you can't run your air? I was having zip problems until today with the car even on some 90 degree days in traffic with stock rad but no air on at least dont' remember having the air on. temps always stayed close to 200 maybe 210.

Wonder if high flow water pump would help some. Oh well guess park the car on super hot days and drive my daily beaters.

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

the other day it was 96 degrees really humid and I rode around town for about thirty minutes running errands with the ac on. On my way out of town i got caught by a long train and the car started warming up. prob got to about 220 and I cut the air off. I revved the engine up and that helped, so I am thinking that an electric water pump would help more than the radiator.


that being said, it really seems like my car has more trouble than most with overheating. it was worse than this with my old procharger kit.


I am also running an evans water pump, but an electric would do a better job sitting in traffic.

only thing is it is going to be really hard to fit an electric in my car....... to do that i would prob have to trim the fan shroud for clearance.


if you have a stock rad you would prob have room for it.

Hugger Z

iTrader: (4)

Sorry to hear. I had an issue and it turned out to be my overflow hose was dryrotted and leaking coolant out. The car has been fine for the most part. But I think recently my secondary fan is not coming on anymore. I can't seem to hear it like I used to. Time to either replace the stock ones or maybe get a good set of SPAL fans or something. It hasn't overheated, but it hasn't been very hot lately either so A/C has not been used very much.

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

the stock fan setup is really good, I would prob try to get some low millage stock fans. jmo

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

If you have the room I'd get a fan off of the box style 3.8l ford Taurus. Before with dual fans I couldn't keep it under 215 without a/c. I put this fan on and it doesn't go over 190* and stays at 180ish while moving.

airforcemanss

iTrader: (23)

does anyone have pics of a puller over the ac condensor? ive been reading a lot about overheating problems from procharger and the aps. to OP have you seen some of the pics the guys are doing to fight their heating problems with their prochargers? from the research ive been seeing the becool rad or any big intercooler for that matter restricts airflow. some guys are doing the big 16" and the little 9" in the fan shroud and running another one on the ac condensor which i haven't seen pics of. maybe a cheaper alternative would be the 96 an older lt1 rad (forgot thickness 2.2?). the more i hear about these problems with overheating the more i want to do a stroker . well goodluck OP and again thanks on some of the pm's and helping me with my ?'s

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Well as said its the first time had a problem but this is first summer with the kit . It has been crappy summer not many days in the 90s and most in the 70s and low 80s.I am pretty far up north here. Todays cruise and didn't try the air car stayed like 180. I was more worried had stuck thermostat or dead fan but the fans are working I can force them on with my hptuners to test them.

A buddy has a big engine vette and its got decent power 590whp on pump gas. But its still too boring for me.I like my TT and will stick with it inspite of a few problems and issues.

Course since I also have a 408 I don't have to go into boost and push the car too hard to go fast. In town I don't see boost much at all. And even on highway short low boost is enough to easily pass anything I need to. The police have become very bad up here and they are getting very strict. get caught for like 90mph and above and they will pretty much throw away the keys.So I have to be pretty careful where and when I play with my car. Street racing is totally out also nowawdays. That would be big time fines,jail,etc.Just not worth it I am too old for that. Car is also not going to be seeing much track either . So mostly just a show car but I can still have a bit of fun going fast to the speed limit and the occasional high speed playing when sure no cops are around.

dlandsvZ28

So far so good with the car idling with the AC on full for 20 minutes at around 90 degrees - won't go over 225-230 after installing pusher fans on the AC condenser.

And that is after I removed the BeCool and installed a new 97 style SLP radiator. IMO the BeCool takes up too much room in the engine bay for good air flow out of the engine bay.

I am running one Spal Extreme 16 and one PermaCool 8 puller fans on the backside of the radiator and two Hayden 12 inch pusher fans on the front of the AC condenser. If the Haydens last the summer and this fix appears to work then I will install Spal's next summer that push more cfm.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1835930...7602956888623/

Trust is going to try the same thing. Hopefully he will get the same results.

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

My problems always looked to be an airflow prob. With the PC I couldn't ride in town with the ac on at all. As soon as I got back to doing 60 or better the car would cool off back to normal............that's why concentrated on airflow when I put the aps kit on.

dlandsvZ28

Essentially there is no airflow parked or in slow moving traffic after the installation of FI.

On the stock system we had assisted airflow because the engine (like a vacuum cleaner) was drawing air from under the car in front of the air dam. So much so in fact that I used to find small rock and sand peddles in the K & N filter. They didn't fall up there, they were sucked up there because of engine suction.

However with FI, the stock system of drawing air up through the plastic shrouds to the engine and also through AC condenser is removed.

So to get air flow back again, when parked or slow moving, IMO, the only way to do it is to add two 12 inch pusher fans onto the face of the AC condenser. With the pusher fans you have air flow when parked or slow moving.

Two pusher fans is a much cheaper and effective way to increase airflow than to add a bigger radiator.

A bigger radiator inhibits air flow in the engine bay too because it nearly completely blocks the escape path of air down and out under the engine.

airforcemanss

iTrader: (23)

thanks for the info. i read a bunch of your post containing good info. im about to go run out to the car to see where the ac condensor is so i can visual this on my car.

btw, i wanted to re itterate; these are over heating issues do to using the ac right? if so, how are heating issues say... if you were not to run ac and deal with just t tops?

dlandsvZ28

Overheating is always with the ac on. With my pusher fans now I can drive and never heat up unless I turn on the AC. Then it raises slowly to 225-230 parked or in slow traffic. And it will hang there and maintain. Not bad but I want it lower. My car is summer only and the temps in Kansas and dry heat wind are killers.

So driving without air is like having the heater on.

The only test I don't recall is if I ever let it sit and idle in the drive in temps over 90 without the AC.

I'm about to take a test drive right now. Just flushed the system and added MotorMax. Dirt trackers use it (radiatory plugs up with dirt and no air flow). It's a heat sink additive unlike Water Wetter which is a surficant. In theory it's supposed to extract heat like a heat sink and dispurse it easily in the radiator. We'll see.

I would like to get my temps down in any kind of hot weather and never run over 210 with the AC and not put the BA Becool back in.

So this is why I am testing MotorMax. I don't think Water Wetter helped any at all.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Yeah have had my car in up to 90 degree weather and only the one overheat with air on think it was also do to messing with tuning and leaning car down and playing with timing. Today it was like 178 and only climbed a few degrees with air on actually . This was this evening and its like around 75 out right now.

So are there part numbers for those pusher fans.

dlandsvZ28

I am told that SPAL fans are the best fan, but I am sure there are other fans that will be just as good. Things to consider are the cfm and thickness of the fan at its outer diameter. Anything thicker than two inches at its outer edge will not fit unless you trim away part of the frame.

I used two 12 inch Hayden Imperial Pusher fans, but you could also use one 14 or maybe a 16.

Since I was testing and wanted to keep costs down I bought two Hayden (Imperial PN 226112) 12 inch pusher fans from Advance auto - about $60 a piece. Each draws about 9 amps.

I will replace with Spal 12 inch later (about $90 each). This low profile Spal will fit since it is less than 2 inches thick. You need just a little over 2 inches of clearance so the top of the fan will fit under part of the upper front frame near the hood latch. You need to mount both as low as possible on the AC condensor because the fan gets thicker from outside edge of the fan to the fan motor.

http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.as...&item=30100384

The condenser is taller than it is wide, so two 12's mounted side by side will fit, as will a 14 that is centered on the face of the condenser. A low profile Spal 16 might even fit.

Note: All of the pushing and pulling of air with fans is moot if the AC condenser is plugged with junk. They fill up fast along the bottom because of junk getting sucked up in front of the air dam.

bluehawk2

iTrader: (74)

I havn't looked, but I don't think there is room between the intercooler and ac cond to fit even a slim fan with the aps. I'm gonna look when I get home.

dlandsvZ28

My bad. I didn't read the OP's first post close enough that he has an APS. My fix is for the ATI system.