aps stenting inlet tubes..tips and tricks.
#1
aps stenting inlet tubes..tips and tricks.
The aps inlets suck shut on the first design of them. Aps wants pretty good bucks for the upgraded ones. Save your money and do this.
Buy 3 inch oval exhaust tubing got some off ebay for like 30 bucks or something .I got extra but whatever.
Cut 1.5 inch sections with hacksaw or maybe band saw whatever.
Take some time to file the sharp edges.
Now you can insert these in the inlet tubes you put then in horizontal but have to turn them in the tube. This is the hard part. You have to not use anything too sharp to cut the tubes . Used wd 40 to lube things. Also took vice grips and did a bit of bending the lip of the tubing on opposite sides of it to help the tubing spin inside the inlets from horizontal to vertical. Get them near center of the tubes before you spin them vertical in the tubes.
They you can step on them to crush them a bit and this will also make them longer and they will stay in place don't see any need to use any exterior clamps.
Other easier option is to cut the tubes and then you can insert wider 3 inch oval pieces like maybe a 3 inch or 4 inch section. Push the inlet tubes over the stents and maybe then use some tape or forget buddy told me certain type of tape to use maybe like the tape that is think already on the inlets..
I actually think the inlet tubes would stay on fine over the stents especially again if you step on the stents after they are in as this makes them be tighter yet in the tubes.I will be cutting mine in half and doing this if the shorter 1.5 inch don't do the job but think they will.
Sorry didn't really take any pics just have couple of the stent tubes.will post them later.
So really pretty easy job. And should fix the problem of inlets sucking shut. Not paying 300 bucks when 30 bucks can fix it.
Next on list is to space the front sway bar!
Buy 3 inch oval exhaust tubing got some off ebay for like 30 bucks or something .I got extra but whatever.
Cut 1.5 inch sections with hacksaw or maybe band saw whatever.
Take some time to file the sharp edges.
Now you can insert these in the inlet tubes you put then in horizontal but have to turn them in the tube. This is the hard part. You have to not use anything too sharp to cut the tubes . Used wd 40 to lube things. Also took vice grips and did a bit of bending the lip of the tubing on opposite sides of it to help the tubing spin inside the inlets from horizontal to vertical. Get them near center of the tubes before you spin them vertical in the tubes.
They you can step on them to crush them a bit and this will also make them longer and they will stay in place don't see any need to use any exterior clamps.
Other easier option is to cut the tubes and then you can insert wider 3 inch oval pieces like maybe a 3 inch or 4 inch section. Push the inlet tubes over the stents and maybe then use some tape or forget buddy told me certain type of tape to use maybe like the tape that is think already on the inlets..
I actually think the inlet tubes would stay on fine over the stents especially again if you step on the stents after they are in as this makes them be tighter yet in the tubes.I will be cutting mine in half and doing this if the shorter 1.5 inch don't do the job but think they will.
Sorry didn't really take any pics just have couple of the stent tubes.will post them later.
So really pretty easy job. And should fix the problem of inlets sucking shut. Not paying 300 bucks when 30 bucks can fix it.
Next on list is to space the front sway bar!
#3
Should have took more pics. Basically you remove inlet tubes..you cut this 3 inch oval pipe you can buy off ebay for cheap to 1.5 inches long. We then also used vice grips to bend the lips over a bit on opposite sides of this stent.File them or whatever to make them smoother not so sharp on the edges.
You insert them in the inlet tubes horizontally but you have to turn them into the tube so they wind up vertical and don't block flow. We used wd 40 for lube and various things big screwdrivers and other tools to try to carefully push the stents vertical. The tubes are tight and have not much give, hard to believe they can collapse but maybe after many heat cycles ..whatever..stented them for peace of mind .The stupid stents keep falling out of the tube so we put knee on one end or put a can of wd in one end to keep the stents from constantly falling out the other end if you can sort of follow what I am saying.They will fall thru until you have them turned vertical.
Once in the tube and you want them to be close to the center but you can move them around in there once turned a bit.
Then we stepped on the inlet tubes literally to widen the stents and that makes them even tighter in the inlets no external clamps should be needed these things are not going anywhere!
Now other easier option with hindsight being 20/20 is to cut the inlet tubes in half and simply push the 3 inch oval pipe into the inlet then push the inlet back together and person could use some tape on the joint but not sure its necessary even since these tubes remember don't have to hold boost just are air inlet tubes. But you can buy tape like think aps has on the tubes now.
And wrap the cut if you wanted to. You could put in wider stents this way likely three or four inches .Not sure if necessary but couldn't hurt and think would do this if have any trouble.
We spent like an hour of time to get those annoying stents turned in the tube. You could possibly use 3 inch round tube and then crush it flatter after installation. But the ovals do fit good once they are in there.
Hope that is all clear now , just ask away guys if you have anymore questions.
Last edited by MY99TAWS6; 07-22-2009 at 07:11 PM.
#4
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Great... thanks alot. The only reason my turbo's probably haven't blown up yet is because I haven't turned it up past 14psi (at the turbo) in fear that the inlet's would suck shut. Now I'll get itchy and turn up the boost to 17 or 18 and then I'll be calling LG. I'll blame you when this happens. j/k.
#6
Wonderful, this thread motivates me! Do you want to sell me some of your left over oval piping? Then all I'll need is $2,800 (or whatever it is) so I can get my turbos back from LG... and that's going to take a while
I'm also thinking about having my entire exhaust redone to reflect what Jim (?) from Speed Inc. did where the psgr waste gate isn't all up on the tranny & ATF lines, you know? It should make swapping springs much easier.
I'm also thinking about having my entire exhaust redone to reflect what Jim (?) from Speed Inc. did where the psgr waste gate isn't all up on the tranny & ATF lines, you know? It should make swapping springs much easier.
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#10
Louis did you do any new new dynos with the upgraded turbos in f bodies yet ? How high can I push the boost with these new upgrades if wanted to? Do you think can hit maybe 850 to 900 rwhp with my listed 408 combo at maybe 15psi max. How much do you think to hit 1000rwhp. I am not going to go over 1000rwhp with spray and boost anyway and prefer a bit more boost and smaller n2o shots since n20 costs money and boost is free..
I guess we have quite a few guys that will be dynoing and tracking the upgrades soon..tomz28,etc.
So what is the warranty on your upgraded turbos?
I guess we have quite a few guys that will be dynoing and tracking the upgrades soon..tomz28,etc.
So what is the warranty on your upgraded turbos?
#11
didnt aps want retail plus 100 for shipping?
can you just stick them in a USPS flat rate box. 12.95 anywhere in states