what do I need to pull a wheelie
07-22-2009, 09:59 PM
#1
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what do I need to pull a wheelie One of my goals is to be able to pull a wheelie..nothing big just enough 2 get the front wheels off of the ground..THIS CAR IS MY DD but i do plan on doing autoX and some drag racing...my question is what do I need in order to pull this off as it relates 2 suspension...recomending parts would b helpfull..current mods in signature
07-23-2009, 07:42 AM
#6
UMI Performance! Hello
I noticed that you were wondering what type of suspension you would need to transfer weight good and hook! Well below would be a list to show you what I would suggest.
1-Subframe Connectors to keep the car solid and help with weight transfer
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...oepirfpnh7tr47
2- Tunnel Mounted Adjustable Torque Arm to get the arm off the rear of the transmission and transfers weight faster than a full length arm.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...oepirfpnh7tr47
3- Rear End Suspension Kit to eliminate any flexing that the stock control arms produce and I would suggest going with a set a single adjustable to hold up a lot better than a poly bushing on the rear.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...oepirfpnh7tr47
4- And then get a good spring and shock combo to help with the weight transfer.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...oepirfpnh7tr47
5- And a good sticky tire and a lot of motor work or a power adder or just leaving off of the trans brake or 2 step!
As long as you have a good suspension set up you should not have a issue with pulling the wheels.
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
I noticed that you were wondering what type of suspension you would need to transfer weight good and hook! Well below would be a list to show you what I would suggest.
1-Subframe Connectors to keep the car solid and help with weight transfer
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...oepirfpnh7tr47
2- Tunnel Mounted Adjustable Torque Arm to get the arm off the rear of the transmission and transfers weight faster than a full length arm.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...oepirfpnh7tr47
3- Rear End Suspension Kit to eliminate any flexing that the stock control arms produce and I would suggest going with a set a single adjustable to hold up a lot better than a poly bushing on the rear.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...oepirfpnh7tr47
4- And then get a good spring and shock combo to help with the weight transfer.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...oepirfpnh7tr47
5- And a good sticky tire and a lot of motor work or a power adder or just leaving off of the trans brake or 2 step!
As long as you have a good suspension set up you should not have a issue with pulling the wheels.
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
07-23-2009, 08:24 AM
#7
TECH Addict
If you're doing this, you're going to want a 9" or Dana 60. Or at least a 12-bolt. The 10-bolt is not going to hold up under hard launches being so sticky. (At least it's better than wheelhop, though)
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12-30-2009, 05:48 PM
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pulling wheels This is what i got. UMI is the sh*t, the only parts on my car are UMI they work great. Thanks UMI
1. qa1 adj. drag shocks/springs front and rear.
2. tunnel mount adj. torque arm. (pinion angle set to negative 4)
3. control arms adj. with spherical ends and relocation brackets
4. subframe connectors.
5.battery relocation.
6.as much gone off the front as possible.
7.26x10.5x15 mt drags 13psi pressure
8. weld wheels
9. 3800 nitrous convertor
10. th350 built to the hilt
MOTOR
11. forged pistons with stock rod and arp 2000 rod bolts.
12. victor jr intake with 4150 tb
13. stock heads with upgraded springs
14.600/610 lift 242/252 durration cam on a 110 lsa
15. 150hp shot of nitrous
This will get you what you want on foot brake not on the trans break and belive it or not on stock 10 bolt with 3.73 gears. just preload it and launch it and ride.( but the car will handle like a 1985 fith avenue)
hope this helps
1. qa1 adj. drag shocks/springs front and rear.
2. tunnel mount adj. torque arm. (pinion angle set to negative 4)
3. control arms adj. with spherical ends and relocation brackets
4. subframe connectors.
5.battery relocation.
6.as much gone off the front as possible.
7.26x10.5x15 mt drags 13psi pressure
8. weld wheels
9. 3800 nitrous convertor
10. th350 built to the hilt
MOTOR
11. forged pistons with stock rod and arp 2000 rod bolts.
12. victor jr intake with 4150 tb
13. stock heads with upgraded springs
14.600/610 lift 242/252 durration cam on a 110 lsa
15. 150hp shot of nitrous
This will get you what you want on foot brake not on the trans break and belive it or not on stock 10 bolt with 3.73 gears. just preload it and launch it and ride.( but the car will handle like a 1985 fith avenue)
hope this helps
Last edited by davidz28man; 12-30-2009 at 05:54 PM. Reason: forgot somethig
12-31-2009, 07:37 AM
#15
This is what i got. UMI is the sh*t, the only parts on my car are UMI they work great. Thanks UMI
This will get you what you want on foot brake not on the trans break and belive it or not on stock 10 bolt with 3.73 gears. just preload it and launch it and ride.( but the car will handle like a 1985 fith avenue)
hope this helps
This will get you what you want on foot brake not on the trans break and belive it or not on stock 10 bolt with 3.73 gears. just preload it and launch it and ride.( but the car will handle like a 1985 fith avenue)
hope this helps
Have a good one!
Brad
01-21-2010, 03:05 AM
#20
first you need to realize that "pulling wheels" is not necessary a good thing and usually is a result of a car that is highly powered with or incorrectly tuned suspension
and by no means makes a car fast, a car that is pulling wheels is losing et plan and simple,
now with that being said many cars need a little bit of lifting the front to get it to work and hook well so there is many different factors that come in to play, which you will never know until you have made many track passes and suspension adjustments
now im assuming that you don't really care about hardcore dragracing but more of the wow factor, and i will be the first to tell you that your not going to pull wheels the street, maybe on a street that has been very well prepped with lots of previous drag racing but even then its going to require lots of suspension tuning, very good vht prep, good street temp and a good tire
and if your not looking to pull wheels on the street but at the track, trust me nobody cares about a car that pulls wheels and still only runs high 11 to low 12s(unless you got some highschool girls running around)
now ask yourself (knowing this info) is it really worth spending 5k in parts that really has no benefit to yourself?
now by no means am i trying to be a dick i just trying to bring light to the subject so you don't waste your money and be unsatisfied with your car
if your going to spend the money do it so your car can run faster and more consistent et
and by no means makes a car fast, a car that is pulling wheels is losing et plan and simple,
now with that being said many cars need a little bit of lifting the front to get it to work and hook well so there is many different factors that come in to play, which you will never know until you have made many track passes and suspension adjustments
now im assuming that you don't really care about hardcore dragracing but more of the wow factor, and i will be the first to tell you that your not going to pull wheels the street, maybe on a street that has been very well prepped with lots of previous drag racing but even then its going to require lots of suspension tuning, very good vht prep, good street temp and a good tire
and if your not looking to pull wheels on the street but at the track, trust me nobody cares about a car that pulls wheels and still only runs high 11 to low 12s(unless you got some highschool girls running around)
now ask yourself (knowing this info) is it really worth spending 5k in parts that really has no benefit to yourself?
now by no means am i trying to be a dick i just trying to bring light to the subject so you don't waste your money and be unsatisfied with your car
if your going to spend the money do it so your car can run faster and more consistent et
Last edited by tripblackls1; 01-21-2010 at 02:20 PM.