Manual Transmission - sintered iron vs. cera-metallics, if you have experience w/ both step inside please




A_VAS
07-29-2009, 11:00 AM
I'm interested in some real-world comparisons....from anybody who has run a full sintered iron disc material vs. a cera-metallic (or organic for that matter).

Life expectancy of the sintered iron - does it wear out the flywheel/pp surfaces quicker?
Is it a grabby bastard that isn't as pleasant on the street?

Is it a good compromise between grab, durability, and street manners, or something that best left to primarily track cars ?

thanks in advance


SNLPerformance
07-30-2009, 12:34 PM
I could literally write a novel to answer this, give me a call at the shop and I'll go over both of them in detail.

Steve A.
Monster Clutch Co.
817-750-2000

brad8266
07-30-2009, 01:34 PM
Sintered Iron just sounds manly so it must be stronger


SPEC-01
07-30-2009, 03:17 PM
Steve is correct, there is a lot of info to consider when determining which of these is best for you. Since you are asking for multiple perspectives you can give me a shout to discuss this as well.

Generally speaking, Sintered Iron will have a higher friction coeffeceint than a CSM full-faced disc (like that of our Stage 3+). It will also wear faster than the Stage 3+ and as such would have a shorter overall life expectency than the full-faced CSM disc material. This is of course relative to the amount of slip that the clutch sees as part of its use. If both units provide a torque capacity greater than your planned output than either would work...but if the car is mostly street driven and your are concerned about life-expectency then the Stage 3+ (or similar full-faced CSM would be the way to go). Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

A_VAS
07-31-2009, 02:45 PM
Thanks for the replies....I'm leaning towards the ceramic blend, as I drive to work daily w/ this car

SPEC-01
07-31-2009, 02:54 PM
That would be a great way to go for a daily driver. Just let me know if you need anything else or you can give me a call to discuss options and pricing. Thanks,

SNLPerformance
08-05-2009, 12:22 PM
Well put Jeremy.

I just couldn't think of a way to put it, the full faced discs like your 3+ and my 3.5/5.5's are a great daily driven setup. :)

gold98Z28
08-05-2009, 12:35 PM
sintered iron is definatly harder on parts and more grabby. thats the main reason most of them come in a kit with a billit flywheel. with the correct static pressure it can be very streetable if set up correctly. but there is a greater chance of chatter with this type of clutch and it does seem to wear quicker and harder on other parts from being more grabby.... if the ceramic disk will support your power level then that would be the way to go for a driver

cam
08-07-2009, 07:41 AM
Maybe theres new stuff out there but I've never seen a sintered iron disk that had marcel cushion or a sprung hub so they are extemely HARSH and knarly race only pieces. Most of the cermi-metalic stuff seems to have no marcel either but a sprung hub so halfway tolerable on the street but tough enough for most at the track.

I've also seen sintered iron clutches weld themselves to the flywheel... huge power levels though. Dont know if the cermic stuff does this or not I haven't seen it so? I'm sure the boys above have seen it all though

SNLPerformance
08-07-2009, 04:58 PM
Maybe theres new stuff out there but I've never seen a sintered iron disk that had marcel cushion or a sprung hub so they are extemely HARSH and knarly race only pieces. Most of the cermi-metalic stuff seems to have no marcel either but a sprung hub so halfway tolerable on the street but tough enough for most at the track.

I've also seen sintered iron clutches weld themselves to the flywheel... huge power levels though. Dont know if the cermic stuff does this or not I haven't seen it so? I'm sure the boys above have seen it all though

My 4 and 6's are dampened hub and are sintered iron. :)

TheSecretFormula
08-10-2009, 06:18 PM
I ran a sintered iron disk on my old TA. It wasn't horrible on the street, but would get more grabby and chatter more the hotter it got. It definately liked to break rear end gears. I would go cera/metallic on a street/strip car.

wrd1972
08-10-2009, 07:20 PM
I have the Spec stage 3+ (cera-metallic I think) and it grabs well.
When it was rather new and shortly after breakin, it gripped like a rabid pit bull. After 5K RPM it still grips well but clealy not as well when it was more new.

Chatter is very minimal but does require a new style "working it" compared to stock, mainly just takes a bit more gas when letting it out compared to stock.

I recently had the 3+ clutch out to replace a blown TOB and saw very little wear on the disk but noticable wear (~.030") on the pressure plate and flywheel. Clearly this disk is harder on the PP and flywheel compared to a stock disk. Not sure if this is contributing to the bit less of bite compared to new.

Also the Spec 3+ is either no marcel or very little marcel compared to stock. It also a sprung hub. I would reccomend this clutch.

SPEC-01
08-11-2009, 09:13 AM
Any Carbon-Semi-Metallic or Full-Metallic disc will wear the plate and flywheel surface. This is normal when using higher friction coeffecient materials. The 3+ uses no marcel. Any carbon-semi-metallic disc material will seat with time, leading to smooter (read more progrssive) engagement, though this does not evidence any less capacity. I hope this info helps. Let me know if you guys have any further questions. Thanks,