1987firechicken

Exactly what the title says my clutch pedal is stuck on the floor and the car is in gear constantly. 2002 WS6 with completely stock tranny and master.

I took it out and it shifted fine about 3 times then I came to a stop put it back in first and pushed the clutch in and it just stayed there.

Please help I have a job interview tuesday.

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

I have NO direct knowledge!
I have seen many posts about the weakness of the stock system.
Maybe, you could bleed the system and get some operation out of the clutch.
IF that works, you should probably go easy on the cutch until you address the situation more fully.
Stay tuned for folks with hands on advice.
Good luck.

1987firechicken

I guess the damn thing wanted just to mess with me. I pulled the pedal back up by hand and waited a few minutes and it is now working like it was before. I assume the Master is on it's way out. Possibly the seals wearing out in the cylinder?

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

Well, pedal stuck on floor, SHOULD be in teh hydraulics, namely MC ...check linkage at top for wires interference/binding, etc...

Tranny stuck in gear more a shift fork/key/shift rod type of sympton, BUT, if it is shifting fine now, I would take it easy on it, listen and feel for things that may not be in the "ordinary" and just all in all try and see if it was strictly a hydraulic issue and NOT a tranny issue. You CAN'T do more harm if it is a hydraulic issue (other than of course, the MC/Slave eventually goes out) but, you CAN do more damage if you have a tranny situation popping up if not careful. GL

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

I went over and looked at this, and I would like to clarify one thing:
There was no tranny issue. What he meant to say is that the clutch would not engage, even though the pedal was depressed. Thus, if the shifter was in say, first gear and he started it, it would start moving.
I do not profess to be a hydraulic clutch expert at all, but it seemed that either the m/c was to blame or the rod connecting the pedal to the m/c had locked in position and would not move.
I don't understand why it started working again if it was the m/c, but what do I know.

1987firechicken

Yeah I wasn't too clear since I was in a hurry mode.

The clutch stuck to the floor and the clutch remained clamped to the flywheel, I could still actually change gears freely when the car was off. So basically the pedal was depressed but it was not freeing the clutch from the flywheel. Had to start the car in 1st gear and try to rev match gears to get back home, thankfully it was a few hundred feet before this happened.

Like I said though after I pulled the pedal back out and waited a few minutes the pedal was fine again. I'm hoping it is a fluke but I'm a little worried that is a sign of a upcoming problem. I took it out right after and pumped the pedal and tried to get it to stick again but it's no longer doing it.

DaddySS

This may be just a variation of the clutch stuck on the floor syndrome. A good place to start is to replace the fluid and bleed the system.

Open the bleeder ( I like to put a piece of hose over the bleeder after I have loosened it, this way the fluid does not run inside the bell housing and you can open and close the bleeder finger tight using the hose). get as much fluid out of the master (don't spill, it's really bad for the paint) then while keeping the master full, let the fluid drain from the system until it runs clear while slowly pushing the pedal in and out.

Once it's clear, bleed the system (I think the mity vac method is best).

Gen414

iTrader: (38)

OK, that is definitely a hydraulic a issue. DaddySS hit the nail on teh head....bleed it, change fluid.

That is the easiest/least expensive thing to start with. After that (or at same time) checking under dash for any type of interference/binding on your pedal ***.

OK, now that you did that, keep eye's and ears open. If problem comes up again, replace MC (again, easy to change compared to slave). Rebleed, and check again.

Problem still there, move to slave. Now, since you have tranny out at this point, you might want to consider a clutch replacement at this time as well, if the clutch is old or you are unsure of the history of it.

GL

Rocweiler

You should start looking into this as soon as you can. Mine acted like this and I shrugged it off until the master/slave cylinder actually went all the way out and left me stranded. Getting tows home suck so just be careful until you check into the cause more.

1987firechicken

Well it's been a hell of a day here. I took the master out of the car and did the drill mod. Everything was going to plan, got the whole thing flushed and bolted back in the car and hooked back up to the tranny and proceeded to bleed out the hydros with a combo of the Mighty Vac and pumping the pedal to get the air to work out of the master. Felt like it was taking way too much fluid and I look under the car and ..... F*ck!!! Fluid is coming out of the bell-housing, slave is shot and pouring fluid all over.

Figures the one part I don't even touch is now dead and puking it's guts in my tranny. Pedal would firm up like it was fine then just drop to the floor like it did the first time, I suspect it was the slave dying when it did it yesterday and today just finished it off.

I'd love to replace the clutch along with the slave but I lost my job a month ago and have yet to find work so I can't drop the $$ to go replacing it right now, hopefully the interview Tues will provide me with money and work but the slave is not coming in till Tues. I guess I have the next 2 days to get the tranny out enough to get the slave out and be ready to roll when the part comes in. Way my luck has been the past few months the master will die once I replace the slave.

1987firechicken

Update:

Another fantastic day in my neighborhood . I took the tranny most of the way out of the car today after a good 8 hours worth of work. Also manged to snap a piece of the damn tranny housing off. The bastard dowl pin on the bellhousing apparently siezed and didn't let go and snapped a little chunk off. Looked at the slave and a seal is hanging off the input shaft infront of the thing, guess that explains why the ****** puked a quart of brake fluid in the street yesterday.

Plan for tommorow is to finish yanking the bastard out and put the new slave in when it comes in. Also going to stab the tranny back in and take some copper seal and put it over the piece the broke off the damn casing to seal it back up (I'll get the casing welded when I go to replace the clutch when I get the money).

Been a real bitch of a day. Got a call and no interview tommorow so that means no work or money, dog pissed on the carpet of my new house, and now the damn tranny casing. Oh well I'll see what needs to be broken tommorow, that old slave will kiss a sledge hammer for the massive pain in the *** it has been.

FML.

Rocweiler

I am about in the same boat brother. I got the master installed today and it felt right for a minute then went right back to floor. It teased me and let me get into reverse and 1st a few times after moving forward an back it started going back to how yours acted stuck in gear an died when I hit the brake.

Question for you how did you get the quick disconnect off from the steel braided line going to slave. Mine is tucked in a hole and the screw driver method was not working for me. I even tried using the actual tool what ever it is called. Looks like if I can get that thing disconnected I might be doing a slave install next.

1987firechicken

I had to use a screw driver on it. I pushed the bottom portion that I could see in and held it with a finger nail and then worked the top with the screw driver after that. You have to push the whole thing in then pull it out so it doesn't bind too, not just the plastic release.

Mine would build up pedal pressure and then just release it all like you were saying, then I looked under the car and found out why as brake fluid coated the driveway and street. If your seeing any kind of fluid coming out of the bellhousing or wettness then I'd be replacing it too. I picked mine up from Autozone for 93 bucks or something and it's got the lifetime warranty on it (I have a feeling it'll be broken every time I replace the clutch so I get a new one ).

I got everything together a few days ago and I'm back on the road, the pedal does feel alot different and the tranny shifts waaaay smoother. Don't know if it was the tranny fluid swap or the new slave though. Pedal is lighter I assume bc I did the drill mod and now I'm pushing more fluid to the slave, and also it catches a little later in the travel of the pedal. Probably my clutch is about ready for replacement but it's gotta hold on a for a couple more thousand miles till I find some work.

Rocweiler

What all did you have to do to get to the slave? I got the cross members out and the torque arm unbolted. I was following the mcleod clutch wirte up but got lost along the way I guess and now the tranny is lower then the torque arm in the rear but wont budge. I think I disconnected the tranny in the wrong place. I did the 6 or so bolts right behind the slave connect. You can see 3 of the holes for them in this pic. Is this where you unbolted the tranny? Can I just drop the tranny straight down from that point or am I still going to have to pull the tranny off a shaft first.