My 6.0 build what do you think (suggestions)
08-02-2009, 08:45 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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My 6.0 build what do you think (suggestions) OK, guys I'm new to this site. But, this is what I'm doing to my car. I would like advise if you see something wrong or if you have any better ideas for more power.
I have a 6.0 Iron block LQ4 at the machine shop now. Going to stick with the stock crank, rods and pistons in the LQ4 for now
I'm going with ported 243's double valve springs from Lloyd Elliott
Custom grind cam to match heads prolly around .600 - .605 lift 111 - 112 lsa
Stock Ls6 intake
Stock ls1 MAF
LS6 ported oil pump
Pace Setter long tubes no emissions crap ORY into SLP Loudmouth
M6 going to a Ram 900HD clutch
Stock fuel system stock injectors.
LS7 lifters
hardened push rods
stock rockers
ARP Rod Bolts.
I hope to be some where is the mid to high 400's RWHP
Anyone have any recommendations or see anything that might restrict me? I'm very open and would like all the feedback I can get. I will also be posting pictures soon. Anyone also want to guess at HP ratting this combo should give me?
I have a 6.0 Iron block LQ4 at the machine shop now. Going to stick with the stock crank, rods and pistons in the LQ4 for now
I'm going with ported 243's double valve springs from Lloyd Elliott
Custom grind cam to match heads prolly around .600 - .605 lift 111 - 112 lsa
Stock Ls6 intake
Stock ls1 MAF
LS6 ported oil pump
Pace Setter long tubes no emissions crap ORY into SLP Loudmouth
M6 going to a Ram 900HD clutch
Stock fuel system stock injectors.
LS7 lifters
hardened push rods
stock rockers
ARP Rod Bolts.
I hope to be some where is the mid to high 400's RWHP
Anyone have any recommendations or see anything that might restrict me? I'm very open and would like all the feedback I can get. I will also be posting pictures soon. Anyone also want to guess at HP ratting this combo should give me?
08-02-2009, 09:21 PM
#2
Upgrade the intake, TB, and MAF to feed those heads. I think you'd be alot happier with the heads flowing more toward thier potential. Also look into maybe upgrading your injectors if need be. I had a buddy max his out on the dyno and he was running 6.0 with a similar setup. Just thought I'd throw that out there. Good Luck.
Last edited by Scarface20_03; 08-03-2009 at 10:10 AM.
08-03-2009, 03:14 PM
#4
For those HP goals I'd lean towards a better performing header! For a budget 1 7/8" header we can get you into the Texas Speed ceramic coated long tubes for $499. For a stainless set we can get you into the Kooks or American Racing Headers! Let us know if we can help!
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POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
08-03-2009, 11:04 PM
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For those HP goals I'd lean towards a better performing header! For a budget 1 7/8" header we can get you into the Texas Speed ceramic coated long tubes for $499. For a stainless set we can get you into the Kooks or American Racing Headers! Let us know if we can help!
08-03-2009, 11:12 PM
#7
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08-03-2009, 11:23 PM
#8
TECH Junkie
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are the heads set up for your bore? if not it can be worth it, and help the flow. TSP can get it done for you cheap.
I would also get some injectors. When I was cam only I was at 89% duty cycle and I had the 28#'s. I now have 42's and am doing fine with the heads and n20. What year car do you have- I would at leats upgrade to the 30#'s. With you having more displacement you will more than likey max out the injectors- doesn't matter if you have the 26 or 28's.
this would be a good time to change out the plugs and wires, and defiantly replace the fuel filter- it is by the dirvers rear tire and takes 10-15 min to replace and it added insurance that everything is working correctly and only costs 14 bucks or so.
I would also get some injectors. When I was cam only I was at 89% duty cycle and I had the 28#'s. I now have 42's and am doing fine with the heads and n20. What year car do you have- I would at leats upgrade to the 30#'s. With you having more displacement you will more than likey max out the injectors- doesn't matter if you have the 26 or 28's.
this would be a good time to change out the plugs and wires, and defiantly replace the fuel filter- it is by the dirvers rear tire and takes 10-15 min to replace and it added insurance that everything is working correctly and only costs 14 bucks or so.
08-03-2009, 11:44 PM
#9
I would do it again if I was on a budget. It made great power, sounded awesome and ran great! Went 7.50's in 1/8th @94mph in a full weight caged m6 car with drag radials. Its a very good setup for the money.
08-04-2009, 07:34 AM
#10
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are the heads set up for your bore? if not it can be worth it, and help the flow. TSP can get it done for you cheap.
I would also get some injectors. When I was cam only I was at 89% duty cycle and I had the 28#'s. I now have 42's and am doing fine with the heads and n20. What year car do you have- I would at leats upgrade to the 30#'s. With you having more displacement you will more than likey max out the injectors- doesn't matter if you have the 26 or 28's.
this would be a good time to change out the plugs and wires, and defiantly replace the fuel filter- it is by the dirvers rear tire and takes 10-15 min to replace and it added insurance that everything is working correctly and only costs 14 bucks or so.
I would also get some injectors. When I was cam only I was at 89% duty cycle and I had the 28#'s. I now have 42's and am doing fine with the heads and n20. What year car do you have- I would at leats upgrade to the 30#'s. With you having more displacement you will more than likey max out the injectors- doesn't matter if you have the 26 or 28's.
this would be a good time to change out the plugs and wires, and defiantly replace the fuel filter- it is by the dirvers rear tire and takes 10-15 min to replace and it added insurance that everything is working correctly and only costs 14 bucks or so.
My heads will be set up for the 6.0
2000 SS m6
I plan to change the plugs , wires and fuel filter since I'm there
thanks