wetVdreams

First impressions are decent since I do not really know what to expect out of any aftermarket clutch as this is my first one. My cammed GTO rode on stock clutch and I sold it before it gave me any issues. My Z06 makes about 440 to the tire and I got this clutch installed.

Pedal feel is great, and not much firmer than stock. The clutch is very grabby as well but the .5 series clutches have a "no chatter" guarantee and arent supposed to do so at all from the get go.

But, coming out of first gear and rolling off I get some chatter in first, not much and I am hoping this will go away. Im still in break in as it only has about 75 miles on it since I picked it up from the shop yesterday, but if I bring the rpms up slow but relatively high (3,500-4,000) I feel a slight vibration in the shifter and car. I also feel this 'vibration' in other gears as well especially if its bogging a little <1700rpms cruising and only sometimes.

Is this typical of an aftermarket clutch? If its not chatter what else do you think it could be, also what is the vibration issue? It just worries me because it doesnt seem anyone else is having these issues out of this clutch. Should this correct its self after the break in period? and is it still common rule of thumb to give it 500 miles before romping on it?

If anybody has any insight it would be greatly appreciated,
Josh

Paul418

The only thing I know to try is to put the car in gear, press the clutch pedal all the way and bring the rpms up to 6000. If the cars starts to roll then your clutch isn't disengaging and you need to figure out why. There are aftermarket clutch masters that can fix this. Perhaps this is your vibration you are feeling?

wetVdreams

hmmm i dont even know what to think, doesnt seem the problem is getting any better... anyone else have any ideas as to what in the hell is going on?

highpockets

iTrader: (22)

Second option,beat the livin crap out of it for a weekend and it will either be smooth as can be or junk ! My exo skel wasnt happy til about 15 hard launches and 500 miles of street abuse.My wife drives it regularly with no chatter complaints.Check with your clutch manuf for break in instruction first !

CS Vette

iTrader: (7)

The minimal chatter that you are experiencing is normal and will go away shortly (depending on how much you drive it). If you want to get rid of the chatter sooner (rather than later) try doing several second gear starts. That will force the clutch to slip. After a few days of nothing but second gear starts your chatter should be almost eliminated. However, you will need to learn to drive your Monster a little differently. They tend to engage smoothest when on the throttle a little (1000-1100rpm is fine) with a "quick" clutch release.

As for the vibration in every gear... I don't know. Could be any number of things. Hope you get it figured out.

wetVdreams

^ cool deal I will try that... I tried a quick 1-2 shift this morning on the way to work and it wouldnt let me into 2nd @ ~6500rpms, completely locked out and mis-shifted. When im not WOT it shifts fine but wont go in gear at WOT.

This is starting to **** me off quite a bit, the car drove like a dream before this its just the stock clutch had enough of the H/C combo otherwise I wouldnt have changed it...

allngn_c5

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like its time for an adjustable master cylinder.

wetVdreams

^ I was thinking that too that maybe the flywheel is out of balance and possibly the master isnt allowing the clutch to dis-engage fully, but then again my car only has 12k miles on it... could the master cylinder really be bad?

Paul418

Well IF you try what I suggested in post #2 you WOULD ALREADY know if your clutch wasn't fully disengaging

Todd157k

iTrader: (5)

Everyone told me the same thing with my Textrilla. The chatter never went away... until I completely bled the system. Now the clutch is REALLY smooth and NO chatter. I have a remote bleeder on there so it was a pretty easy thing to do.

wetVdreams

oh ya ****, ill try that when I get off work... but I believe Monster is sending me a whole new clutch.

Ya i had them install one too at the time of the clutch install so I may try that as well


Thanks to everyone for your help

LostCauseZ06

iTrader: (4)

if its not going into 2nd gear then you have hydraulic problems and need to bleed and/or replace your master cylinder. This is a very common problem on vettes called "sticky pedal" your hydraulics are basically not strong enough to disengage the clutch at the higher RPM's.

wetVdreams

^ even though I never had that problem with the old stock clutch, not once until this new clutch went in... if so what are you suggesting that I replace the master?

Thanks for the help

LostCauseZ06

iTrader: (4)

yes, the new clutch is heavier than the old clutch most likely. It takes a perfectly operating hydraulic system to move a heavy duty clutch.


whereas the stock setup is much weaker and lighter duty and doesnt have to be "perfect"

LostCauseZ06

iTrader: (4)

and you dont have to replace the master. its just a good idea to upgrade.


you can bleed the system but its a HUGE pita on vettes unless you have a remote bleed installed when your in there.

wetVdreams

^ ya I had them install a speed bleeder when they did the clutch too, could you link me to a more suitable master?

Bad Blue WS6

iTrader: (41)

http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...aulics/#master