LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

So after my TR236 instal Slowhawk off Ls1tech was kind enough to make some changes to my edit file as he is running the same cam. At first the tune seemed great, but I wasn't driving the car much. Now that I have driven it to work a couple times (110 miles round trip) and have ben driving it all weekend I am noticing some things I don't like. I'm hoping I can get some guidence.

Here is a A-tap log. http://www.geocities.com/sqwznss/Thurs_20_3rd_run.xls You'll notice there are some cells that are black with red text. This is where I am focusing and I'll explain the situation.

Here is my current tune. You should be able to view it in your edit program. http://www.geocities.com/sqwznss/sqw...ngesfor236.LS1

There are 2 problem I want to get rid of at this time.

1) When cruising to a stop in nuetral the car will race to 1300-1400 rpm until fully stopped. You'll see that in the black and red cells as they are in timed order. If I'm on a hill, as soon as the PCM sees a change in speed, it races the RPM again from idle to 1300-1400 RPM.

2) The above cuases the car to go in to cruise mode. in parking lots it will cruise at 1300-1400 RPM. Going down the road it causes the car to buck if I let off in lower rpms.

I have the idle set for 750 but it seems to still sit at 800-850..

Thanks in advance for any help on this.

NO CATZZ

iTrader: (10)

I am experiencing the same problem, although my cam is not quite as big as yours. My idle down is slow, I have the cruise control effect and my part throttle cruise and tip in are a little 'chunky'(hesitation/misfire). Trying to tune it out but I have had no luck so far.

My setup:
Forged 346(with 74 miles on it so far)
224/228 XER
Stage II Heads

If I have any luck figuring it out I will let you know...but if anyone has any ideas in the mean time please help us out.

Thanks
Josh

gojo

iTrader: (12)

Idle, IAC and RAF have to be in sync. Set the idle at 850. 750 is too low for your cam. You might be able to come down some later. If the car starts okay and doesn't race at start up leave the IAC table alone. Lower the RAF values by 1.0, at the temps effected and see what results. Judge if you need to add or subtract.
You may need to adjust the timing, VE, throttle cracker and decay tables. They are for fine tuning and will not work well until the first three tables are right.
Let us know what happens.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

I would go into the VE table and adust the 1000rpm-1400rpm table 105%,I adjusted yours very close to mine but I run 11.2-1 compression Heads and your car probly just needs a little more fuel in those ranges.By looking at your file it looks like a lean condition hanging it.

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

So I changed the Main VE on 1200-1600 on all MAP's 105%. I will re-flash tonight, go to dinner and drive it to work tomorrow. Hope fully that will fix it. I'll let you know tomorrow..

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

Ok.. Made some changes and added IAC in to A-tap. Here are the sheets..


I drove to dinner and home from Dinner about 15 minutes each way. This is the ride home. 105% 800-1200rpm Main VE

Changing the table didn't seem to help any and looking at the LT's it seemed like the car was running a little rich so I changed the table to 95% of what it was. 95% 800-1200rpm Main VE


I noticed a very weird issue while on my drives tonight. If cruising at any speed trying to coast, if the clutch is not engaged and I am in nuetral the car races to 2k and the IAC's are much higher. But when the clutch is in it idles at 1500 and the IAC are almost half of what they are when the clutch is out. What the hell is that all about?

On the second spread sheet, I went to a very large down hill by me and you will see I put comments regarding clutch status. Thanks again for the help..

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Here is another idea.Put back in the 105% and stock IAC and other idle table's.
Do an idle relearn by:
pull computer fuses
turn key on then off
reinstall fuses
start car and let idle for 10 minutes
turn on AC and let idle for 5 minutes
turn AC off and let idle for 5 minutes
turn off car,
"the whole time DO NOT touch the gas"

Start after 20 seconds you can start the car and drive.Drive it 3 different times.Then check idle problems.

This might help the hanging idle.The big thing with Edit is to give each change ample time to learn itself in.Ussually 10 minutes doesn't do it.

Also,what is your IAC count at idle?

9T9BlueTA

iTrader: (2)

LIL SS, I tried everything slowhawk has said without any luck when I had my car out. What version of edit are you using? I cant get the link to your edit file to work, (abbreviated). If you dont have version 1.3 that has the throttle cracker option I can change it for you if you want. I went through about 20 diffferent combinations of VE table, IAC, RAF, and nothing made the problem go away. The only thing I saw that interested me was the throttle craker values make a big jump at over 12 MPH and below 12MPH is when my idle starts to go back to normal.

I thought I saw some people say its weather related but I dont buy it.

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

Don,

I put the 105% tune back in last night and did most of a relearn process. Pulled the fuses for a good 15 minutes last night with the ignition on. Fired it up this morning and let it idle for a good 10 minutes before getting in it with the defroster on. I did not cycle the AC though (Don't have AC in the car and I sometimes see an AC switching code). Drove down my hill to the gas station (I should say idled down my hill) let it idle there with the defroster on while I grabbed some coffee. As I pulled away it seemed fine. Even the first 10-20 minutes on my way to work it would idle back down to 1000 at a roll with the clutch in. The closer I got to work, the worse it got (55 miles each way with stop and go traffic for about 10 miles). Now it is exactly the same.

When I got to work I let it run at idle a minute. IAC's go to 0 when at idle. If I blip the gas they jump to like 100 something drop to 60-70 for a couple seconds and go back to 0. (I added IAC on the A-tap logs.) You'll see on the second log (95% one) that the IAC changes consistently when the clutch is in versus when it is out.

I also noticed it does look lean at idle. +2% on L-trims. I decided to bump 400-800-1200 up 110% off the base tune you sent me. I loaded it in just before I walked in the building. I have a couple stops on the way home tonight so I will be cycling the car on and off a bit over a 80-90 mile ride home. I have to go out of my way to do a couple things. I think I'll really look at the final log on the way home.


9T9BlueTA,
I do have the newest version of edit with Throttle Cracker. I will try your method tomorrow if this one fails. I just want to make sure I am right about your theory.. The value based at 0 is more or less the value I should use where I have my problems?

My only concern with this is it is from 1mph+ from what I can see. On top of that the RPM changes clutch engaged vrs unengaged.

9T9BlueTA

iTrader: (2)

not 0 I was going to try .780 first.

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

Meant 0mph..

9T9BlueTA

iTrader: (2)

yeah I know but 0 MPH is set to 0 . A setting of .780 should work as when my car hits 12MPH thats when the idle starts to drop. The entire 16-40mph I was going to change to .780 as I am not sure if you can that big of a change in the same MPH colum.

Like going from .780 to the stock setting of 1.5 or 2.2 in the same MPH colum. I think that may have bizarre side effects so I was going to change the whole row.

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

Doing that in my case scares me. The only mph idle drops below 1300rpm is 0mph.. 1mph+ clutch in idles at 1300, 1mph+ clutch out idles at 1900..

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

Don, Thanks again!!! I took your advise and bumped the 400-1200 rpm VE table again. This time I went 10% off the original you provided me. It was now hanging at much less rpm (1k-1100).. I decided to change it to 15% in those areas and it goes down to 900 till stopped and then to 775-800 with in a second or two. I'm going to leave this tune in it for a while now.. Thanks a ton!!!!

BTW, I'm sticking it on the Dyno tomorrow.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Sounds good.Sometimes a hanging idle is a lean condition.It took me a month to get my car the way I like it.Still it does hand the idle to 1200rpm at speeds above 10mph,but I have so little time to work on my own car since I'm alway's building other cars.

Let us know what gains you get on the dyno.

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

Will do..

Stroker 1500

iTrader: (1)

whats RAF??

gojo

iTrader: (12)

RAF is Running AIR Flow in the idle air tab. It effects the amount of air through the throttle body while the car is moving, until it comes to a "complete" stop.