What kind of certification is needed for going a little under 9.99(6.40)
08-16-2009, 07:05 PM
#3
I have one around here somewhere, but can't find it. I am not going to buy another till next year.
I'm just a little confused on the cert for this et.
According to the SFI website its:
25.1E
Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.49 Seconds & Quicker; 2,800 lbs. Maximum
25.2
Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.49 Seconds & Quicker; 3,200 lbs. Maximum
25.4
Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.50 to 8.49 Seconds; 3,600 lbs. Maximum
25.5
Full Bodied Car Stock or Modified/OEM Floorpan and Firewall with OEM Frame or Uni-Body Construction – 7.50 to 8.49 Seconds; 3,600 lbs. Maximum
But what about 8.50-9.99?
I'm just a little confused on the cert for this et.
According to the SFI website its:
25.1E
Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.49 Seconds & Quicker; 2,800 lbs. Maximum
25.2
Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.49 Seconds & Quicker; 3,200 lbs. Maximum
25.4
Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.50 to 8.49 Seconds; 3,600 lbs. Maximum
25.5
Full Bodied Car Stock or Modified/OEM Floorpan and Firewall with OEM Frame or Uni-Body Construction – 7.50 to 8.49 Seconds; 3,600 lbs. Maximum
But what about 8.50-9.99?
08-16-2009, 07:27 PM
#5
I have one around here somewhere, but can't find it. I am not going to buy another till next year.
I'm just a little confused on the cert for this et.
According to the SFI website its:
25.1E
Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.49 Seconds & Quicker; 2,800 lbs. Maximum
25.2
Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.49 Seconds & Quicker; 3,200 lbs. Maximum
25.4
Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.50 to 8.49 Seconds; 3,600 lbs. Maximum
25.5
Full Bodied Car Stock or Modified/OEM Floorpan and Firewall with OEM Frame or Uni-Body Construction – 7.50 to 8.49 Seconds; 3,600 lbs. Maximum
But what about 8.50-9.99?
I'm just a little confused on the cert for this et.
According to the SFI website its:
25.1E
Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.49 Seconds & Quicker; 2,800 lbs. Maximum
25.2
Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.49 Seconds & Quicker; 3,200 lbs. Maximum
25.4
Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.50 to 8.49 Seconds; 3,600 lbs. Maximum
25.5
Full Bodied Car Stock or Modified/OEM Floorpan and Firewall with OEM Frame or Uni-Body Construction – 7.50 to 8.49 Seconds; 3,600 lbs. Maximum
But what about 8.50-9.99?
Search button will answer all of your questions... this topic has been posted more times then anyone can count.
You don't need anything more then a 10 point unless you plan to go faster then 8.5 but not a lot of people build 25.5 cars anymore buecause they are not worth as much as the 25.2 cars and the mild steel 25.5 cars are a dime a dozen... when it comes to value.
To the search button.
08-16-2009, 07:38 PM
#6
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Search button will answer all of your questions... this topic has been posted more times then anyone can count.
You don't need anything more then a 10 point unless you plan to go faster then 8.5 but not a lot of people build 25.5 cars anymore because they are not worth as much as the 25.2 cars and the mild steel 25.5 cars are a dime a dozen... when it comes to value.
To the search button.
You don't need anything more then a 10 point unless you plan to go faster then 8.5 but not a lot of people build 25.5 cars anymore because they are not worth as much as the 25.2 cars and the mild steel 25.5 cars are a dime a dozen... when it comes to value.
To the search button.
08-17-2009, 07:36 AM
#7
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alls you need is a regular cert, good to 8.50 and slower, just call your division and see where the cert guy is and they,ll give you his # ,or find the next nhra event and they ussually do cert there and they are cheaper, but the sticker is now 150.00 plus the guy plus milage and to the other answer, you dont need a 10 point cage just need a cage which depending on who buils it can be 6,8,10,12 points i have a post on here somewhere about cages and most peoiples misconceptions on point, hope this helps, bob
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08-17-2009, 11:32 AM
#8
alls you need is a regular cert, good to 8.50 and slower, just call your division and see where the cert guy is and they,ll give you his # ,or find the next nhra event and they ussually do cert there and they are cheaper, but the sticker is now 150.00 plus the guy plus milage and to the other answer, you dont need a 10 point cage just need a cage which depending on who buils it can be 6,8,10,12 points i have a post on here somewhere about cages and most peoiples misconceptions on point, hope this helps, bob
08-17-2009, 11:38 AM
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[QUOTE=brandonppr;12083528]If you don't have factory floor or firewall does it have to be a 25.X cert or can you still get a 8.50 and slower cert?[/if you cut all that out, your going to need the floor bars and outriggers just to hold it together, plus under dash bars.and if you did cut all that out why wouldnt you just build a spec car?what kind of car is this,
Last edited by NRC-Motorsports; 08-17-2009 at 11:45 AM.
08-17-2009, 09:44 PM
#10
[QUOTE=NRC-Motorsports;12083553] I just wanted it to be light, but I think I am going to go for a 25.2 anyway. I don't think it will add that much weight just to go to 25.2 There are only a few more bars I guess and then I can go faster down the road if I want plus it would probley be worth more.
So 25.2 it is.
Thanks for the help.
If you don't have factory floor or firewall does it have to be a 25.X cert or can you still get a 8.50 and slower cert?[/if you cut all that out, your going to need the floor bars and outriggers just to hold it together, plus under dash bars.and if you did cut all that out why wouldnt you just build a spec car?what kind of car is this,
So 25.2 it is.
Thanks for the help.
08-18-2009, 03:59 PM
#11
[QUOTE=brandonppr;12086685]
I just wanted it to be light, but I think I am going to go for a 25.2 anyway. I don't think it will add that much weight just to go to 25.2 There are only a few more bars I guess and then I can go faster down the road if I want plus it would probley be worth more.
So 25.2 it is.
Thanks for the help.
If you want to be light from what I can see a 25.2 weighs more then a 25.5 by like 25 pounds or something (see WOLFE'S site). If you don't NEED a 25.X don't get it...... they are not cheap...... a 25.2 with no paint and no extras will run you a minimum of 10k and I would not do it unless you really knew what you were doing....... a 10 point yourself is one thing....... a 25.X is another.
A cert on a 25.2 is like 200-250 bucks I think, you can just cert it to 25.5 if you want to save money but if you sold it you would want to make sure it is currently 25.2 certed... I don't know if you can just cert it to 8.5's....
A 10 point does not cost that much really and if the car went faster one day then you could cut it out and cut the old cage up and re-use some of the smaller peices if you wanted to on the 25.2 but I just don't see the point in having all that extra weight and the pain of getting in and out of the car for something you may not need...
Just something to think about..
I just wanted it to be light, but I think I am going to go for a 25.2 anyway. I don't think it will add that much weight just to go to 25.2 There are only a few more bars I guess and then I can go faster down the road if I want plus it would probley be worth more.
So 25.2 it is.
Thanks for the help.
If you want to be light from what I can see a 25.2 weighs more then a 25.5 by like 25 pounds or something (see WOLFE'S site). If you don't NEED a 25.X don't get it...... they are not cheap...... a 25.2 with no paint and no extras will run you a minimum of 10k and I would not do it unless you really knew what you were doing....... a 10 point yourself is one thing....... a 25.X is another.
A cert on a 25.2 is like 200-250 bucks I think, you can just cert it to 25.5 if you want to save money but if you sold it you would want to make sure it is currently 25.2 certed... I don't know if you can just cert it to 8.5's....
A 10 point does not cost that much really and if the car went faster one day then you could cut it out and cut the old cage up and re-use some of the smaller peices if you wanted to on the 25.2 but I just don't see the point in having all that extra weight and the pain of getting in and out of the car for something you may not need...
Just something to think about..
08-18-2009, 04:37 PM
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[QUOTE=JUICED96Z;12090313]
If you want to be light from what I can see a 25.2 weighs more then a 25.5 by like 25 pounds or something (see WOLFE'S site). If you don't NEED a 25.X don't get it...... they are not cheap...... a 25.2 with no paint and no extras will run you a minimum of 10k and I would not do it unless you really knew what you were doing....... a 10 point yourself is one thing....... a 25.X is another.
A cert on a 25.2 is like 200-250 bucks I think, you can just cert it to 25.5 if you want to save money but if you sold it you would want to make sure it is currently 25.2 certed... I don't know if you can just cert it to 8.5's....
A 10 point does not cost that much really and if the car went faster one day then you could cut it out and cut the old cage up and re-use some of the smaller peices if you wanted to on the 25.2 but I just don't see the point in having all that extra weight and the pain of getting in and out of the car for something you may not need...
Just something to think about.. dude you are so far off on all, first off he cut out floors and firewall so he,ll need should have all the bars under the floor,if for nothing else but safety
2nd ,
all the certs cost the same i.e. 850 cert 25-2/25-5 there 150 plus the ride and the 35 nhra guy fee.[but like i said they all cost the same,if you do it at an event its cheaper],so the cost of cert is a muet point
3rd, if he does a 25 -5 they range between 4800-5800 and a 25/2 is 7800-8800-[ painted]
and getting in and out is no different the side bar has to go where it has to go actually with 25 anything its lower,i get in and out of my vette real easy and it a 25-2 so im not understanding your point
and he still hasnt said what kinda car it is
If you want to be light from what I can see a 25.2 weighs more then a 25.5 by like 25 pounds or something (see WOLFE'S site). If you don't NEED a 25.X don't get it...... they are not cheap...... a 25.2 with no paint and no extras will run you a minimum of 10k and I would not do it unless you really knew what you were doing....... a 10 point yourself is one thing....... a 25.X is another.
A cert on a 25.2 is like 200-250 bucks I think, you can just cert it to 25.5 if you want to save money but if you sold it you would want to make sure it is currently 25.2 certed... I don't know if you can just cert it to 8.5's....
A 10 point does not cost that much really and if the car went faster one day then you could cut it out and cut the old cage up and re-use some of the smaller peices if you wanted to on the 25.2 but I just don't see the point in having all that extra weight and the pain of getting in and out of the car for something you may not need...
Just something to think about..
2nd ,
all the certs cost the same i.e. 850 cert 25-2/25-5 there 150 plus the ride and the 35 nhra guy fee.[but like i said they all cost the same,if you do it at an event its cheaper],so the cost of cert is a muet point
3rd, if he does a 25 -5 they range between 4800-5800 and a 25/2 is 7800-8800-[ painted]
and getting in and out is no different the side bar has to go where it has to go actually with 25 anything its lower,i get in and out of my vette real easy and it a 25-2 so im not understanding your point
and he still hasnt said what kinda car it is
08-18-2009, 04:59 PM
#13
[QUOTE=NRC-Motorsports;12090503] Your posts are really hard to read man........
He said if you don't have the factory floor or firewall, for all we know he is thinking about cutting them out.....
I have heard of a few shops that will go as cheap as 8k for a 25.2 but not many. A lot of people will not even consider a shop that offers under 10k...... I won't. 4,800 seems way cheap for a 25.5 considering mosts shops charge 2-3k for a molly 10 point.. maybe you are talking about MS... Another 2k for all that work???? WOW...
It is easy for some people to get in and out of a 25.X car, it is hard enough for me to get out of a 10 point car being that I am like 6'2 and 250 pounds.... someone a foot shorter and 100 pounds less would have no problems.. Just because it is easy for you does not mean it is easy for anyone...... Every person I have ever talked to says a 25.X sucks to get in and out of and its why you don't see many on the streets. Not sure how you can speak for everyone and say it is easy though but all well.
Im shocked that a 8.50 cert costs the same considering with a 25.X there is A LOT more to look at......
P.S. Periods are your friend.
dude you are so far off on all, first off he cut out floors and firewall so he,ll need should have all the bars under the floor,if for nothing else but safety
2nd ,
all the certs cost the same i.e. 850 cert 25-2/25-5 there 150 plus the ride and the 35 nhra guy fee.[but like i said they all cost the same,if you do it at an event its cheaper],so the cost of cert is a muet point
3rd, if he does a 25 -5 they range between 4800-5800 and a 25/2 is 7800-8800-[ painted]
and getting in and out is no different the side bar has to go where it has to go actually with 25 anything its lower,i get in and out of my vette real easy and it a 25-2 so im not understanding your point
and he still hasnt said what kinda car it is
2nd ,
all the certs cost the same i.e. 850 cert 25-2/25-5 there 150 plus the ride and the 35 nhra guy fee.[but like i said they all cost the same,if you do it at an event its cheaper],so the cost of cert is a muet point
3rd, if he does a 25 -5 they range between 4800-5800 and a 25/2 is 7800-8800-[ painted]
and getting in and out is no different the side bar has to go where it has to go actually with 25 anything its lower,i get in and out of my vette real easy and it a 25-2 so im not understanding your point
and he still hasnt said what kinda car it is
He said if you don't have the factory floor or firewall, for all we know he is thinking about cutting them out.....
I have heard of a few shops that will go as cheap as 8k for a 25.2 but not many. A lot of people will not even consider a shop that offers under 10k...... I won't. 4,800 seems way cheap for a 25.5 considering mosts shops charge 2-3k for a molly 10 point.. maybe you are talking about MS... Another 2k for all that work???? WOW...
It is easy for some people to get in and out of a 25.X car, it is hard enough for me to get out of a 10 point car being that I am like 6'2 and 250 pounds.... someone a foot shorter and 100 pounds less would have no problems.. Just because it is easy for you does not mean it is easy for anyone...... Every person I have ever talked to says a 25.X sucks to get in and out of and its why you don't see many on the streets. Not sure how you can speak for everyone and say it is easy though but all well.
Im shocked that a 8.50 cert costs the same considering with a 25.X there is A LOT more to look at......
P.S. Periods are your friend.
08-18-2009, 06:43 PM
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[QUOTE=JUICED96Z;12090613]
Your posts are really hard to read man........
He said if you don't have the factory floor or firewall, for all we know he is thinking about cutting them out.....
I have heard of a few shops that will go as cheap as 8k for a 25.2 but not many. A lot of people will not even consider a shop that offers under 10k...... I won't. 4,800 seems way cheap for a 25.5 considering mosts shops charge 2-3k for a molly 10 point.. maybe you are talking about MS... Another 2k for all that work???? WOW...
It is easy for some people to get in and out of a 25.X car, it is hard enough for me to get out of a 10 point car being that I am like 6'2 and 250 pounds.... someone a foot shorter and 100 pounds less would have no problems.. Just because it is easy for you does not mean it is easy for anyone...... Every person I have ever talked to says a 25.X sucks to get in and out of and its why you don't see many on the streets. Not sure how you can speak for everyone and say it is easy though but all well.
Im shocked that a 8.50 cert costs the same considering with a 25.X there is A LOT more to look at......
P.S. Periods are your friend. yea i guess they are, my son tells me stop with the comma,s i'll try better on this one,when i start typing i dont look at it. I guess you need to look at our site, and tell me whats the difference between your guy or people you know that build more expensive cars.i'll bet we have more stuff even in our basic cages,but thats besides the point. I,ll put this back on you how can you say just because a car is cheaper it,s inferior[sp]
just because you pay more doesnt make it better. :eek2
the fact that your 6.2 at 250 means your car should be built to you not me that's how i can make that statement.We have been building cars for 30 yrs and yes some are harder that others to get in an out of,but if car is built for owner it should make his life a little easier. NHRA has one sticker for the 3 certs now and they just raised the price for them from 75.00 to 150 .00 the rest of the price is for the guy to check the car. The guy we had in div 1 charged 35.00 just like the guy here in SC, the other fee is in the mileage divided out by how many cars they do.
we just did 3 cars here and certed them because the cert guy for thier part of tenn. wants 250 just to come there and look .than the other fee,s like anything else,greed drive some people.No i dont know the guy who posted this. Im not a sponcer here and i dont solicit work from this board,[although i have helped when i can for the last 6 yrs ].
So just for the hell of it run a search on our name ,on here, malibu racing ,yellow bullit tell me what you see is different than your more expensive builds that would scare you away from saving money. shops can still be reasonable and be good..........
ps. was this easier to read, i tried.....
Your posts are really hard to read man........
He said if you don't have the factory floor or firewall, for all we know he is thinking about cutting them out.....
I have heard of a few shops that will go as cheap as 8k for a 25.2 but not many. A lot of people will not even consider a shop that offers under 10k...... I won't. 4,800 seems way cheap for a 25.5 considering mosts shops charge 2-3k for a molly 10 point.. maybe you are talking about MS... Another 2k for all that work???? WOW...
It is easy for some people to get in and out of a 25.X car, it is hard enough for me to get out of a 10 point car being that I am like 6'2 and 250 pounds.... someone a foot shorter and 100 pounds less would have no problems.. Just because it is easy for you does not mean it is easy for anyone...... Every person I have ever talked to says a 25.X sucks to get in and out of and its why you don't see many on the streets. Not sure how you can speak for everyone and say it is easy though but all well.
Im shocked that a 8.50 cert costs the same considering with a 25.X there is A LOT more to look at......
P.S. Periods are your friend.
I guess you need to look at our site, and tell me whats the difference between your guy or people you know that build more expensive cars.i'll bet we have more stuff even in our basic cages,but thats besides the point. I,ll put this back on you how can you say just because a car is cheaper it,s inferior[sp]just because you pay more doesnt make it better. :eek2
the fact that your 6.2 at 250 means your car should be built to you not me that's how i can make that statement.We have been building cars for 30 yrs and yes some are harder that others to get in an out of,but if car is built for owner it should make his life a little easier. NHRA has one sticker for the 3 certs now and they just raised the price for them from 75.00 to 150 .00 the rest of the price is for the guy to check the car. The guy we had in div 1 charged 35.00 just like the guy here in SC, the other fee is in the mileage divided out by how many cars they do.
we just did 3 cars here and certed them because the cert guy for thier part of tenn. wants 250 just to come there and look .than the other fee,s like anything else,greed drive some people.No i dont know the guy who posted this. Im not a sponcer here and i dont solicit work from this board,[although i have helped when i can for the last 6 yrs ].
So just for the hell of it run a search on our name ,on here, malibu racing ,yellow bullit tell me what you see is different than your more expensive builds that would scare you away from saving money. shops can still be reasonable and be good..........
ps. was this easier to read, i tried.....
Last edited by NRC-Motorsports; 08-18-2009 at 06:56 PM.
08-18-2009, 06:59 PM
#15
Much better, now go for capital letters at the begining of your sentences and when needed and your golden 
.
Nothing wrong with shops that can charge less, if it is because of less overhead then I have no problem with that. I just get iffy when a lot of shops charge X ammount and another offers to do it for a lot less... I had a 10 point put in because I was getting a great deal on it...... I got the car back not runing (they said come fix it, we can't figure it out and give up, it was the VATS harness) and got it back with a bunch of scratches from the bars and a broken dash pad..... Not to mention the a-pillar bars going threw the dash in different spots (half a bar off).
Im on yellowbullet (same screen name) and would be on there now if work would not have blocked it. You guys do good work, no argument there.
Maybe you can understand my hesitence in shops that charge a bit less then others..... there is a one man shop here that charges about what you guys do.... He does good work but uses blocks of wood as jack stands.... I guess I am a little picky but I have been burned a lot But I am not going to go to some of the shops that charge 20k for a 25.2....
I do agree that these cages can be built a little more driver friendly but for most cars it is still a pain for us taller guys... Have to do a lot of bending haha.
.Nothing wrong with shops that can charge less, if it is because of less overhead then I have no problem with that. I just get iffy when a lot of shops charge X ammount and another offers to do it for a lot less... I had a 10 point put in because I was getting a great deal on it...... I got the car back not runing (they said come fix it, we can't figure it out and give up, it was the VATS harness) and got it back with a bunch of scratches from the bars and a broken dash pad..... Not to mention the a-pillar bars going threw the dash in different spots (half a bar off).
Im on yellowbullet (same screen name) and would be on there now if work would not have blocked it. You guys do good work, no argument there.
Maybe you can understand my hesitence in shops that charge a bit less then others..... there is a one man shop here that charges about what you guys do.... He does good work but uses blocks of wood as jack stands.... I guess I am a little picky but I have been burned a lot
But I am not going to go to some of the shops that charge 20k for a 25.2....I do agree that these cages can be built a little more driver friendly but for most cars it is still a pain for us taller guys... Have to do a lot of bending haha.
08-18-2009, 07:06 PM
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Much better, now go for capital letters at the begining of your sentences and when needed and your golden .
Nothing wrong with shops that can charge less, if it is because of less overhead then I have no problem with that. I just get iffy when a lot of shops charge X ammount and another offers to do it for a lot less... I had a 10 point put in because I was getting a great deal on it...... I got the car back not runing (they said come fix it, we can't figure it out and give up, it was the VATS harness) and got it back with a bunch of scratches from the bars and a broken dash pad..... Not to mention the a-pillar bars going threw the dash in different spots (half a bar off).
Im on yellowbullet (same screen name) and would be on there now if work would not have blocked it. You guys do good work, no argument there.
Maybe you can understand my hesitence in shops that charge a bit less then others..... there is a one man shop here that charges about what you guys do.... He does good work but uses blocks of wood as jack stands.... I guess I am a little picky but I have been burned a lot But I am not going to go to some of the shops that charge 20k for a 25.2....
I do agree that these cages can be built a little more driver friendly but for most cars it is still a pain for us taller guys... Have to do a lot of bending haha.
.Nothing wrong with shops that can charge less, if it is because of less overhead then I have no problem with that. I just get iffy when a lot of shops charge X ammount and another offers to do it for a lot less... I had a 10 point put in because I was getting a great deal on it...... I got the car back not runing (they said come fix it, we can't figure it out and give up, it was the VATS harness) and got it back with a bunch of scratches from the bars and a broken dash pad..... Not to mention the a-pillar bars going threw the dash in different spots (half a bar off).
Im on yellowbullet (same screen name) and would be on there now if work would not have blocked it. You guys do good work, no argument there.
Maybe you can understand my hesitence in shops that charge a bit less then others..... there is a one man shop here that charges about what you guys do.... He does good work but uses blocks of wood as jack stands.... I guess I am a little picky but I have been burned a lot
But I am not going to go to some of the shops that charge 20k for a 25.2....I do agree that these cages can be built a little more driver friendly but for most cars it is still a pain for us taller guys... Have to do a lot of bending haha.
,lol Taller guy,s are a problem and they all own vettes,
and we deal with the vertically challenged all the time......because we do a lot of vette,swe just finished one for one of you 6'2 guys and his back is fused
08-18-2009, 09:36 PM
#18
I am going to go with a 25.2
I just have the shell of the car right now. The floor has not been cut nor the firewall yet. I don't really care how long this project takes me. I want to do it myself. I don't really want just a cage. I want to go all out. I want to be able to go as fast as I want. I want the car to have a good stiff frame also. Right now I am just doing research before going any further with the car. I plan to learn what ever I need to learn to do this car myself and with guidence from someone with experience. If I have to learn new skills to progress then so be it. I am going with large CI LS block for this one.
I already have a car with a cage. Its not fast. It only runs 7.0 in the 8th. I know it don't need a cage yet, but at the point its at, its a good car. Its consistant and one class I run is limited to 7.00, so I don't really want it to go any faster. Its done for now as far as I am concerned. Its fun to race and a good car so I'm leaving it alone.
Here are a few pics of it:
I just have the shell of the car right now. The floor has not been cut nor the firewall yet. I don't really care how long this project takes me. I want to do it myself. I don't really want just a cage. I want to go all out. I want to be able to go as fast as I want. I want the car to have a good stiff frame also. Right now I am just doing research before going any further with the car. I plan to learn what ever I need to learn to do this car myself and with guidence from someone with experience. If I have to learn new skills to progress then so be it. I am going with large CI LS block for this one.
I already have a car with a cage. Its not fast. It only runs 7.0 in the 8th. I know it don't need a cage yet, but at the point its at, its a good car. Its consistant and one class I run is limited to 7.00, so I don't really want it to go any faster. Its done for now as far as I am concerned. Its fun to race and a good car so I'm leaving it alone.
Here are a few pics of it:
