What pinion angle works best for you?
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What pinion angle works best for you?
Do you guys just "play" with it, or is their a preferred angle you use for track?
The reason I am asking is because I have played with adjusting mine alot, and everytime I adjust it , I either get tons of wheel hop, or sideways wheel spins.
Also please post the method you use to measure your pinion angle, since their seems to be a few methods out their. I use the one posted on BMR's site.
The reason I am asking is because I have played with adjusting mine alot, and everytime I adjust it , I either get tons of wheel hop, or sideways wheel spins.
Also please post the method you use to measure your pinion angle, since their seems to be a few methods out their. I use the one posted on BMR's site.
#2
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
Some more info about the car would be helpful too.
Suspenion Mods?
Tranmission?
Gearing?
Power?
Race Weight?
Tire Combo?
As for the track having more (-) Negative pinion angle helps with the bite, it is something you do not run on the street, and it can damage stuff but it does help as well for 1/4 stuff. BUT every car is different.
Suspenion Mods?
Tranmission?
Gearing?
Power?
Race Weight?
Tire Combo?
As for the track having more (-) Negative pinion angle helps with the bite, it is something you do not run on the street, and it can damage stuff but it does help as well for 1/4 stuff. BUT every car is different.
#6
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
Anyone doing that with a tq arm car has no clue WTF they are doing.
That's for old school leaf spring cars that have to deal with axle wrap.
I run mine at pretty much 0 to -.5, more you add to the car the more mechanical bind you add to the driveline... which is never good.
#7
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
Anyone doing that with a tq arm car has no clue WTF they are doing.
That's for old school leaf spring cars that have to deal with axle wrap.
I run mine at pretty much 0 to -.5, more you add to the car the more mechanical bind you add to the driveline... which is never good.
That's for old school leaf spring cars that have to deal with axle wrap.
I run mine at pretty much 0 to -.5, more you add to the car the more mechanical bind you add to the driveline... which is never good.
Trending Topics
#9
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well tell me what you guys think. I have a 98 convertible 6 speed spec stage 3 clutch, billet flywheel, umi tunnel mount torque arm, umi subframe connectors, grotti hahn 1 7/8th lt's, slp dual duals, whisper lid and a pro 5.0.
Car spun and got sideways at the track, and I know the worn tires are not helping , but I cannot afford dr's right now so I figured I would play with the pinion angle.
Car spun and got sideways at the track, and I know the worn tires are not helping , but I cannot afford dr's right now so I figured I would play with the pinion angle.
#12
8 Second Club
iTrader: (67)
pinion angle has nothing to do with traction. the only way it may affect your times is if it is binding. change the pinion angle all you want but that is not going to change your suspension mounting points. if you have rubber or poly bushings, you will want a little more negative pinion angle because the bushings will have some give so under a load your driveline will be somewhat straight. if you have all rod ended solid suspension, you dont need as much negative pinion since the rod ends do not give. the main reason for setting pinion angle is so you do not destry u-joints.