LS7 clutch vs. Hendrix Clutch
08-17-2009, 08:19 AM
#1
LS7 clutch vs. Hendrix Clutch I have a 04 CTS-V with T56.
My friend that just bought the LS7 clutch/fw/p/plate took a bunch of measurements for me to compare to my Hendrix Clutch/fw/p plate I got from Thomas.
FYI: The CTS-V's have dual mass fw, so we have to get LS7 slave to make up the difference for the new fw.
So check this out:
The stack height on the LS7 entire pkg is right at 4"
The stack height on my Hendrix pkg is 3.5"
I think the difference is coming from the raised up portions on the LS7 fw....
And just so you can see how the clutch disc sits on the LS7 fw....
Does this mean I'm going to need a 1/2" behind my slave? Or can I not measure by this method??
Here's some pics of the Hendrix clutch, fw, p plate.....I went with organic/ceramic on the clutch.
PLEASE HELP!
My friend that just bought the LS7 clutch/fw/p/plate took a bunch of measurements for me to compare to my Hendrix Clutch/fw/p plate I got from Thomas.
FYI: The CTS-V's have dual mass fw, so we have to get LS7 slave to make up the difference for the new fw.
So check this out:
The stack height on the LS7 entire pkg is right at 4"
The stack height on my Hendrix pkg is 3.5"
I think the difference is coming from the raised up portions on the LS7 fw....
And just so you can see how the clutch disc sits on the LS7 fw....
Does this mean I'm going to need a 1/2" behind my slave? Or can I not measure by this method??
Here's some pics of the Hendrix clutch, fw, p plate.....I went with organic/ceramic on the clutch.
PLEASE HELP!
08-17-2009, 01:30 PM
#3
based on your pics, I would think you would need to shim for the difference. If I read all your info correctly.
You Have a CTSv w/ a clutch kit stacked height of 4" vs the new kit that is 3.5". BUT with the new kit your FW shaved down that 1/2" so in essence there should be no need to adjust. Yes the stacked hight is not as much but I would wager since it is the same motor/trans, that the slave will compensate for the diff.
Mmmmhm, I am curious as well, does Hendrix require a shim at all??
You Have a CTSv w/ a clutch kit stacked height of 4" vs the new kit that is 3.5". BUT with the new kit your FW shaved down that 1/2" so in essence there should be no need to adjust. Yes the stacked hight is not as much but I would wager since it is the same motor/trans, that the slave will compensate for the diff.
Mmmmhm, I am curious as well, does Hendrix require a shim at all??
08-17-2009, 01:46 PM
#5
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I would not just give a generic "yes, you need a x/x" spacer" personally. What I would do is install the flywheel and clutch assembly and lay a straight edge across the clutch fingers. Measure from there to the trans mounting surface on the block. Then assemble the slave and bell housing to the trans and collapse the slave fully by hand and measure from the mounting face of the bell housing (where it goes to the block) to the face of the collapsed slave/throw out bearing. You need an air gap of approx 1/8" or just a touch under between the collapsed slave and pressure plate fingers. Anything over that is how thick your spacer will need to be.
Hope this helps.
Joe
Edit- I just saw SNL's post. That sounds like the correct setup, but I still never personally install a clutch without measuring the air gap first just to be safe. That is probably the #1 cause for all the shifting and longevity problems you read about with various clutches!
Hope this helps.
Joe
Edit- I just saw SNL's post. That sounds like the correct setup, but I still never personally install a clutch without measuring the air gap first just to be safe. That is probably the #1 cause for all the shifting and longevity problems you read about with various clutches!
08-17-2009, 02:22 PM
#7
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I would not just give a generic "yes, you need a x/x" spacer" personally. What I would do is install the flywheel and clutch assembly and lay a straight edge across the clutch fingers. Measure from there to the trans mounting surface on the block. Then assemble the slave and bell housing to the trans and collapse the slave fully by hand and measure from the mounting face of the bell housing (where it goes to the block) to the face of the collapsed slave/throw out bearing. You need an air gap of approx 1/8" or just a touch under between the collapsed slave and pressure plate fingers. Anything over that is how thick your spacer will need to be.
Hope this helps.
Joe
Edit- I just saw SNL's post. That sounds like the correct setup, but I still never personally install a clutch without measuring the air gap first just to be safe. That is probably the #1 cause for all the shifting and longevity problems you read about with various clutches!
Hope this helps.
Joe
Edit- I just saw SNL's post. That sounds like the correct setup, but I still never personally install a clutch without measuring the air gap first just to be safe. That is probably the #1 cause for all the shifting and longevity problems you read about with various clutches!
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08-17-2009, 03:33 PM
#8
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.Yup, I went through it with a couple of Specs and just make it part of my clutch install to measure now. Too many problems with the "should I use the shim or not?" installs, so this just eliminates any guesswork!
08-18-2009, 08:54 AM
#10
What do you modify to your C6 slave? Just the distance? Does it make up the difference going from the dual mass fw to the single mass?
08-18-2009, 08:56 AM
#11
based on your pics, I would think you would need to shim for the difference. If I read all your info correctly.
You Have a CTSv w/ a clutch kit stacked height of 4" vs the new kit that is 3.5". BUT with the new kit your FW shaved down that 1/2" so in essence there should be no need to adjust. Yes the stacked hight is not as much but I would wager since it is the same motor/trans, that the slave will compensate for the diff.
Mmmmhm, I am curious as well, does Hendrix require a shim at all??
You Have a CTSv w/ a clutch kit stacked height of 4" vs the new kit that is 3.5". BUT with the new kit your FW shaved down that 1/2" so in essence there should be no need to adjust. Yes the stacked hight is not as much but I would wager since it is the same motor/trans, that the slave will compensate for the diff.
Mmmmhm, I am curious as well, does Hendrix require a shim at all??
The LS7 measurements are from a buddy from the Cadillac Forum.
Hendrix told me it was a LS7 setup....but I think it's a LS6 fw.
08-18-2009, 07:04 PM
#12
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That's it. They were taking the measurements with the bell housing on the motor, I was describing it with it on the trans. Six in one, half dozen the other but I actually do it the way it was mentioned in the diagram (bell on motor), I don't know why I described it the other way.
08-19-2009, 01:34 PM
#16
Thanks. Ya me too....this is nonsense!
I can't figure out what slave I need. I need to know the coefficient of friction on the materials, and plate load to see if this will even works on our 3800lb pigs. <- my local clutch guy is wanting to know these things, cuz he's baflled too.....and that's not good.
I can't figure out what slave I need. I need to know the coefficient of friction on the materials, and plate load to see if this will even works on our 3800lb pigs. <- my local clutch guy is wanting to know these things, cuz he's baflled too.....and that's not good.
08-27-2009, 03:03 PM
#19
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Monster clutches are superior imho to Hendrix clutches, far more R&D. Thomas is a good guy and sells good products too but Monster is just a step ahead. By the way I have had both companies clutches in my old GTO.