how to make a car hook on 18" tires... straight line
08-18-2009, 12:34 PM
#1
how to make a car hook on 18" tires... straight line So I can go two ways with the car.
The typical way of putting slicks/skinnies on the car like everyone else...
Or have a big HP street sleeper and run a number on 18" drag radials.
I have done everything I really care to do with the engine/tranny for now (4l80e will be replacing the built 60e eventually) so it's time to focus on the rear end and suspension.
I've seen a few mustang guys do it, running 8s on 17s... I'm not looking to go THAT fast, I just want to run low 10s / high 9s consistantly and drive the car home, to the store, to work etc on the same tires all the time. I am not concerned with the HP it will take. It makes enough power right now to be in the 10s and when I add the second kit will make enough to put it in the 9s ON THE RIGHT SUSPENSION.
I don't give a **** if the car handles like a waterbed. I want to state that clearly because I really DO NOT CARE.
Obvious things - springs, shocks, sway bars, torque arm, control arms... yes yes. But which ones?
I tried to search but didn't get anything useful to read... is anyone doing this?
I have 18" ZR1s on the car currently, do not mind mini-tubbing the car if needed to fit bigger rubber on a widened wheel if I HAVE to but I want to keep the car as stock appearing from the outside as possible and I am doing EVERYTHING possible to hide the sound of the nasty camshaft that is in the car. It's a nitrous car that will probably leave on 150 and grab 250 or so in 2nd/3rd gear.
I am completely open to suggestions, reading about combos that are proven to work, and I want to do this on a BUDGET, but am willing to pay for the right parts the first time. My budget isn't pennies, but I'm not going to spend as much as a new car on carbon fiber this and space-tech that.
Thanks
The typical way of putting slicks/skinnies on the car like everyone else...
Or have a big HP street sleeper and run a number on 18" drag radials.
I have done everything I really care to do with the engine/tranny for now (4l80e will be replacing the built 60e eventually) so it's time to focus on the rear end and suspension.
I've seen a few mustang guys do it, running 8s on 17s... I'm not looking to go THAT fast, I just want to run low 10s / high 9s consistantly and drive the car home, to the store, to work etc on the same tires all the time. I am not concerned with the HP it will take. It makes enough power right now to be in the 10s and when I add the second kit will make enough to put it in the 9s ON THE RIGHT SUSPENSION.
I don't give a **** if the car handles like a waterbed. I want to state that clearly because I really DO NOT CARE.
Obvious things - springs, shocks, sway bars, torque arm, control arms... yes yes. But which ones?
I tried to search but didn't get anything useful to read... is anyone doing this?
I have 18" ZR1s on the car currently, do not mind mini-tubbing the car if needed to fit bigger rubber on a widened wheel if I HAVE to but I want to keep the car as stock appearing from the outside as possible and I am doing EVERYTHING possible to hide the sound of the nasty camshaft that is in the car. It's a nitrous car that will probably leave on 150 and grab 250 or so in 2nd/3rd gear.
I am completely open to suggestions, reading about combos that are proven to work, and I want to do this on a BUDGET, but am willing to pay for the right parts the first time. My budget isn't pennies, but I'm not going to spend as much as a new car on carbon fiber this and space-tech that.
Thanks
08-18-2009, 01:21 PM
#2
Hello
I noticed that you are looking into a new suspension set up to help with your traction performance! First it is going to be difficult due to there not being a lot of side wall on the tires. Well I will recommend going with a set of adjustable lower control arms (to get rid of the factory stamped and flexible ones). And another suggestion for you would be a set of lower control arm relocation brackets to help eliminate wheel hop and increase your traction performance by allowing you to adjust the lower control arm more parallel to the surface therefore pushing the rear into the ground. An adjustable pan hard bar to allow you center the big tires for clearance issues. And last but not least a adjustable torque arm and relocation cross member. Going with a adjustable torque arm will allow you to fine tune the rear by setting the pinion angle and the relocation cross member will allow you to get the torque arm off of the rear of the transmission to eliminate the possibility of breaking the rear tail shaft. Below are a few links to show you what UMI Performance has too offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...dut58kjmht63n2
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...dut58kjmht63n2
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...dut58kjmht63n2
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...dut58kjmht63n2
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
I noticed that you are looking into a new suspension set up to help with your traction performance! First it is going to be difficult due to there not being a lot of side wall on the tires. Well I will recommend going with a set of adjustable lower control arms (to get rid of the factory stamped and flexible ones). And another suggestion for you would be a set of lower control arm relocation brackets to help eliminate wheel hop and increase your traction performance by allowing you to adjust the lower control arm more parallel to the surface therefore pushing the rear into the ground. An adjustable pan hard bar to allow you center the big tires for clearance issues. And last but not least a adjustable torque arm and relocation cross member. Going with a adjustable torque arm will allow you to fine tune the rear by setting the pinion angle and the relocation cross member will allow you to get the torque arm off of the rear of the transmission to eliminate the possibility of breaking the rear tail shaft. Below are a few links to show you what UMI Performance has too offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...dut58kjmht63n2
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...dut58kjmht63n2
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...dut58kjmht63n2
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...dut58kjmht63n2
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
08-18-2009, 02:08 PM
#3
What about shocks and springs, sway bars?
Any links to proven set-ups using UMI products on short-sidewall tire cars running a number?
Obviously what I'm asking is out of the norm and most "typical" set ups aren't going to work so there won't be a plug-and-play application.
The prices on your products don't look half bad though. I was figuring it would be a few thousand to set up the suspension.
Any links to proven set-ups using UMI products on short-sidewall tire cars running a number?
Obviously what I'm asking is out of the norm and most "typical" set ups aren't going to work so there won't be a plug-and-play application.
The prices on your products don't look half bad though. I was figuring it would be a few thousand to set up the suspension.
08-18-2009, 03:26 PM
#4
What about shocks and springs, sway bars?
Any links to proven set-ups using UMI products on short-sidewall tire cars running a number?
Obviously what I'm asking is out of the norm and most "typical" set ups aren't going to work so there won't be a plug-and-play application.
The prices on your products don't look half bad though. I was figuring it would be a few thousand to set up the suspension.
Any links to proven set-ups using UMI products on short-sidewall tire cars running a number?
Obviously what I'm asking is out of the norm and most "typical" set ups aren't going to work so there won't be a plug-and-play application.
The prices on your products don't look half bad though. I was figuring it would be a few thousand to set up the suspension.
Are you going to go with a aftermarket rear end? If you do I would recommend even if you don't stay with a stock rear spring and go with a coil over on the front to help with weight transfer and a good adjust rear shock as well. We also offer a rear drag bar it is just not on our web site as of yet. Give us a few more days and it will be! But once you get your suspension dialed in you will have a killer set up. Are you going to be going with a drag radial or a street tire? We get that a lot with our prices we just try to offer a good quality product for a good price. Below is a link to show you what UMI Performance has to offer as far as spring and shock set up.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...dut58kjmht63n2
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
08-18-2009, 04:45 PM
#5
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Look into the drag racing section also to see who is running what. As for shocks/springs, Strange. Ive had QA1s and wished I went with strange. Im rideing on Strano springs and Konis now and stepping up toa watts linkage with an adjustable rear stabilizer. IM running on 315/35/17s M/T D/R, but not running the upper PHB brace. or shock tower brace. With A short sidewall the launch is tricky-Im a M6- but I can launch mine at 4500 and not spin. I do have these kinda parts UMI has listed. Ive used the short and long TQ arms and poly and hiem joint LCAs to. And ran a aftermarket K-member with the lower A-arms. Stock rear springs are fine, Fronts depending on wieght of car 250-300 lbs/inch. and dont forget saftey items for the speed and times you will run.
08-18-2009, 04:54 PM
#6
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BTW Im back to my stock K-member since mine broke-NOT UMIs-Thiers are more street friendlyand thier Lower a arms are very nice as well. If noise and ride isnt a problem-go with the rodends-hiem joints- on the LCAs and remove front swaybar for the track, a 250 shot huh? you must be built for a good 10 sec pass. Sweet.
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08-19-2009, 03:02 PM
#8
my bros car hooked all day on the street with bfg 18's with only a tq arm, lcas, panhard bar, kyb agx shocks all 4 corners...Lmk tell you it made a hell of a lot of power and sprayed right out the hole. It pulled so hard he would even leave evos out the gate and that was 18's.
08-19-2009, 06:09 PM
#9
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I dont have any of UMIs products. I have a SLP TQ arm and A Spohn, BMR PHB And did run QA1s for a while. I have run the rod ended LCAs before as well as the rodend on the front of the SPOHN TQ arm. I dont mind the noise which wasnt much. I do run duals dumped with no X or H pipe. I drive my near bald DR in the rain when it does out hear. Ive run a Pizza cutters up front before on cross contry trips. Now as for the TQ arms the SPOHN is better quality than the SLP. And has a saftey loop. Its not on right now cause I need to get the straight mount as opposed the the drop one. I like the shorter ones better, I got better 60' and overall better handeling. I did have a aftermarket K-member and it broke. It was used anyway so I dont know the abuse it had before I got it. UMI,BMR,SPOHN, MADMAN are a few shops that can hook you up.
