Wolfknight87

Okay so previously had planned to swap to 4l80e, but having my doubts with how the 1/8 aluminum sbc to gm metric pattern adapter I have will hold up with such a heavy trans and also how the flex plate to tc spacing would fair. I am hoping to get the stock 98 60e to live a while behind my turbo'ed v6 engine since it wouldn't have instantaneous torque like a v8 so it shouldn't be as harsh on the hard parts. Still the engine should be putting out at peak once the rest of the car is up to snuff around 800hp potentially( atleast its being built to withstand those power levels). Anyhow trying to keep costs at minimum so I will be doing the build myself plus I want to be able to have full understandings of the workings so I can rebuild/freshen up in between seasons. After reading countless posts on the 60e rebuilds I have found tons of combinations of parts that are supposed to work very well, but want to confirm so I am not double ordering parts or mixing parts that won't work together. So far...

1)Transtec overhaul gasket and seal kit
2) raybestos maxpac 3-4 clutch pack set tight
3) beat sunshell
4)timken thrust bearing kit
5)65e front hub bearing style
6)transgo 4l60e-3 shift kit
7) alto red wide hi-energy band
8) 29-element sprag
9)input drum sleeve kit
10)-ASTG manual
11- hardened snap rings

Still have to fill in the blanks. Some of the tricks I have heard are to block the 3rd and 4th accumulators, cryo treat input shaft, run fairbanks servos, run wider bushings for the sunshell, and leave out the 3-4 unload springs. All input is greatly appreciated. I understand this site is geared towards v8's, but I am turning to the guys who know how to make the 60e live a little longer behind monster engines

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

I will help you with any information I can furnish, However I would really suggest you just buy a built unit from either us or another vendor here. I think in the lOng run it would be cheaper and smarter. Just my opinion
BTW its a raybeston Z PACK .

Wolfknight87

Actually had heard of the maxpac which is 8 frictions 7 steels http://www.ctpowertrain.com/servlet/...3-dsh-4/Detail. Guessing your recommendation on prebuilt units is based on what I've heard and seen in the difficulty of the rebuild process compared to something like the glide or th400.

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

Ok yes I miss understood on the clutch set. And yes on the build. I see alot of people hear latley who are and have tried it themselves and either completely failed or ended up going back into the unit multiple times before they could get it to work.
I have actually talked with and helped a few solve there problem.
My adviceis as follows .
If your gonna build it yourself in order to learn and are not concerned with cost or time then its cool go for it.
If its to save money its probably not such a good idea. Thats just my opinion from observations I have made it is a tricky and compared to a 350 or 400 a somewhat comlicated build for the novice.

PedaltoMetal

I'll throw my list in.

sleeved input drum
B/W dual cage sprag
Kolene steels
Alto Reds except for the 3/4. B/W High Energy for the 3/4 8 stack at .022 clearance
B/W low roller
Beast sun shell
GM 5 pinion planets front and rear
bearing style reaction carrier
new reverse drum
Alto wide carbon lined band
case saver
Sonnax wide bushing for the sun gear
All new bushings, bearings, and thrust washers
Sonnax check valve
Transgo shift kit, high rev pump rings/springs and capsule for the drum
rebuilt pump 10 vane
new 3rd accumulator capsule
clean and painted case.
all new seals and gaskets that come with a rebuild kit.
Sonnax pinless accumulators in all except the 1-2 due to the Transgo kit
new solenoids
torlon check *****
Transgo sep. plate
I kept the stock servos cause with the transgo kit the 1-2 is plenty firm and I don't plan on doing alot if any WOT 3-4 shifts
I built it about 4 months ago. Gone on 5 mile trips and 400 mile trips all while given it hell. So far all is good. It puts a smile on my face every time I do a WOT 2 -3 shift. This was not my first trans. I already had some experience before I built this one. Take Frank's advice and buy one from a sponsor, bolt it in and go. But if you're set on doing it yourself then read read ask questions read again.

Wolfknight87

Well I decided to go with the tried and true turbo 400. I just bought a turbo 400 for 50bucks. Figure I will pickup a rebuild kit, reverse manual valve body, and 34 element sprag assembly. Trying to find out what parts from the 4l80e will swap over as I've heard some parts will interchange. With the right gearing and tire I don't think I will miss out on OD since I mostly cruise country roads and city. Worst case scenario is to eventually pickup a gear vendors overdrive if I need the extra economy.