Just installed a new LS7... Problems?
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Staging Lane
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Just installed a new LS7... Problems?
So I recently had a local shop install a new LS7 with flywheel, slave and pilot bearing. Now it seems to drive ok but it is almost impossible to get into reverse... ANy help?
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Well I am taking it back to the shop so they can take a look at it and also do the drill mod that they forgot to do. But if they forgot to reconnect it would it be possible to get in to reverse? because it will go in, it just fights it and seems like it wants to grind... Thanks guys!
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Well I am taking it back to the shop so they can take a look at it and also do the drill mod that they forgot to do. But if they forgot to reconnect it would it be possible to get in to reverse? because it will go in, it just fights it and seems like it wants to grind... Thanks guys!
Hopefully you get it worked out. Let us know if you have anymore questions or need any suggestions.
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[QUOTE=bearcatt;12100490]I have the LS7 clutch , it's a fantastic street clutch. It shouldn't grind all.
Hopefully you get it worked out. Let us know if you have anymore questions or need any suggestions.
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[/QUOTE
Well it is not actually grinding but it just seems real tight and very hard to get into reverse. Now I have heard of some guys having some similar problems and many suggest that this is normal and that it will take some driving to work itself out... or "break it in". Also just got a call from the mechanic and he says, he just test drove the car (after drill mod), and that the pedal feels great but that the shifting is still tough but he doesn't see anything that could be wrong... Would you just drive it and hope that it needs to broken in? Thanks guys!!!
Hopefully you get it worked out. Let us know if you have anymore questions or need any suggestions.
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[/QUOTE
Well it is not actually grinding but it just seems real tight and very hard to get into reverse. Now I have heard of some guys having some similar problems and many suggest that this is normal and that it will take some driving to work itself out... or "break it in". Also just got a call from the mechanic and he says, he just test drove the car (after drill mod), and that the pedal feels great but that the shifting is still tough but he doesn't see anything that could be wrong... Would you just drive it and hope that it needs to broken in? Thanks guys!!!
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[
Well it is not actually grinding but it just seems real tight and very hard to get into reverse. Now I have heard of some guys having some similar problems and many suggest that this is normal and that it will take some driving to work itself out... or "break it in". Also just got a call from the mechanic and he says, he just test drove the car (after drill mod), and that the pedal feels great but that the shifting is still tough but he doesn't see anything that could be wrong... Would you just drive it and hope that it needs to broken in? Thanks guys!!!
Well it is not actually grinding but it just seems real tight and very hard to get into reverse. Now I have heard of some guys having some similar problems and many suggest that this is normal and that it will take some driving to work itself out... or "break it in". Also just got a call from the mechanic and he says, he just test drove the car (after drill mod), and that the pedal feels great but that the shifting is still tough but he doesn't see anything that could be wrong... Would you just drive it and hope that it needs to broken in? Thanks guys!!!
Does the peddle feel lower to the floor now than it did with the old clutch ?
Meaning is the engagement point lower to the floor ?
Did you replace the master cylinder with a new one ?
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If you are able to get into 1st through 6th without issue, then it's not a clutch related issue. More likely they neglected to reconnect the lock-out solenoid or something internal to the transmission is in need of replacement.
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ok well I car back today and reverse is back to normal, but all the gears are some what tough to get into and the mechanic says that it is normal and will take some driving to break the clutch in... Does this sound correct? or is the shop just out of ideas to fix it? Have any of you had this same experience? Thanks again for the help!
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ok well I car back today and reverse is back to normal, but all the gears are some what tough to get into and the mechanic says that it is normal and will take some driving to break the clutch in... Does this sound correct? or is the shop just out of ideas to fix it? Have any of you had this same experience? Thanks again for the help!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/12105631-post7.html
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Yes I replaced the MC and the pedal feels good and he point of engagement is about normal but it just seems that the shifting is really tight and hard to enter the gears... haha I don't know man, it beats me.
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I don't know.
If the tranny was working fine before the new LS7 clutch, that would lead one to beleive the tranny is ok. The only things I can think of would be...
1.) The stock hydraulics not quite able to fully engage the new clutch.
1.) The stock hydraulics sometimes have a hard time with anything beyond the stock LS1 lS6 clutches.
2.) What tranny fluid did they use ?
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If the tranny was working fine before the new LS7 clutch, that would lead one to beleive the tranny is ok. The only things I can think of would be...
1.) The stock hydraulics not quite able to fully engage the new clutch.
1.) The stock hydraulics sometimes have a hard time with anything beyond the stock LS1 lS6 clutches.
2.) What tranny fluid did they use ?
.
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I don't know.
If the tranny was working fine before the new LS7 clutch, that would lead one to beleive the tranny is ok. The only things I can think of would be...
1.) The stock F-body hydraulics are not quite able to fully disengage a heavier clutch properly.
a.) The stock hydraulics sometimes have a hard time with
anything beyond the stock LS1 lS6 OEM replacement clutches.
b.) Truthfully the stock master cylinder sucks and is designed
for weaker clutches other than the LS7 and beyond.
c.) The Tick m/c has solved many a shifting issue by providing that extra
disengagement pressure needed. I know it's pricey but it works.
2.) Did they use a decent grade of GM approved Dextron III or IV
tranny fluid ?
.
If the tranny was working fine before the new LS7 clutch, that would lead one to beleive the tranny is ok. The only things I can think of would be...
1.) The stock F-body hydraulics are not quite able to fully disengage a heavier clutch properly.
a.) The stock hydraulics sometimes have a hard time with
anything beyond the stock LS1 lS6 OEM replacement clutches.
b.) Truthfully the stock master cylinder sucks and is designed
for weaker clutches other than the LS7 and beyond.
c.) The Tick m/c has solved many a shifting issue by providing that extra
disengagement pressure needed. I know it's pricey but it works.
2.) Did they use a decent grade of GM approved Dextron III or IV
tranny fluid ?
.