janaka

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys
I'm looking for a little direction with a new motor for my car.
The car is a '76 Datsun 280z, T56 tranny and 3.90gears, 2800lbs give or take street weight.

This car is driven maybe 2k miles per year so 'drivability' is a relative term but my wife does like to drive the car so I don't want something that will be on the verge of stalling at lights etc.

I'm weighing the options of going 402/408 NA higher compression or going with a blower on a forged motor. I cannot run nitrous due to my 'classic' car insurance and I have annual inspections for it...

I'd like to run 10's and keep it relatively tame. We do like a little lumpy idle so no worries there.

I'm thinking the NA 400+ would probably get me there and keep the budget lower than building a forged bottom end 6L and then a blower but I don't know for certain. It looks like there are tons of 400~ cube motors out there making boat loads of power reliably.

Thoughts? Cubes or power adder? Which would be a lower cost to build?

I do have a FAST 90/90 on the car already which can be used on the new motor and my fuel system is an A1000 pump, braided -8 lines and fuel pressure regulator so I'm good on the fuel side (would need injectors for sure).

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Cubes cost less than the total cost of FI.
Have you figured out how much HP you need to run what you want? I'd do that first set a budget second and then look at the options.

stoverz28

iTrader: (8)

I'd go with the big cubes. IMO it will be more fun to drive with a good amount of bottom end torque, should be cheaper too.

LastBlack02SS

iTrader: (21)

If you read over the FI section, you'll notice many things... most importantly:
1) FI is a blast when running well. Turbo/blower whine, BOV sounds, kick in the pants power, nice daily driveability (depending on the setup haha)
2) It is a money pit. The cost of FI and the extent of the project always goes up and you always want more. Custom grind cam, different heads, upgrade turbos, bigger injectors, larger fuel system, etc. It just goes on and on.

I was in the FI world and now have moved to large cubes for my upcoming setup and while I haven't seen the results yet, I am very happy about the prospective outcome. I think if given the chance, you can get all the power you want, reliability, driveability, and fun from an N/A setup.

For example, my upcoming motor got 21 mpg on the freeway, conservative cam that idled perfect at 800rpm, fully forged, and dyno'd a conservative 540 rwhp (expecting more with the larger headers and intake setup I'm doing now). In a C5 vette it ran around a 10.6 on a stock 4l60e transmission.

It's like we say, there's no replacement for displacement! Good luck on your upcoming setup whatever route you choose.

janaka

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the posts guys, all well said.

I had the idea that a FI setup would end up costing me more to get done and done right. Between forged motor then the FI itself I should have known the cubes would be less expensive long run.

Something in the 475-500 RWHP will probably get me to my times I want to run fairly easily.

What would a good 400+ set up look like? I'm not worried about running an aluminum block as the car is light enough and the 80~lbs isn't a huge deal for me. So I'd guess that would point me at a stroked LQ4?

c5z28

iTrader: (11)

If you don't mind me asking what were your 60' times in the 1/4mile? Dyno numbers look low and times look a little slow.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

For a fully forged motor with the blower its obviously going to cost alot more.

500rwhp in a full weight Camaro probably would not get much into the 10s...but since your car is only 2800 lbs it should get into the 10s if set up right. Id go for the motor, 11:1 compression, 235-240 ish cam and some good heads with your intake.

janaka

iTrader: (7)

double post. sorry

janaka

iTrader: (7)

1.89 on cold drag radials. I heated them a 'tad' and blew out my driverside u-joint/half shaft on the next run . I've since upgraded to 300zx TT CV shafts and will be good to go in that department.

I'm also running 1 7/8" hugger headers due to my engine bay which is a tad of a bottle neck to power I'm sure. I haven't had it dyno'd since the 90/90 has gone on either so the #'s are definately below what its at now.

With some slicks and a good launch 500rwhp should get me there. If I was to take out the stereo stuff and a few other items I'm sure I can get the weight down 50lbs and if I remove my huge bumpers for the 240z skinny bumpers I can drop another 80lbs.

MelScrilla

iTrader: (2)

A good budget 500+ hp setup would be a 408iron or 402 aluminum, with L92 heads (cnc if you have the money) and a L92 intake. through a M6 that should get you to 500. If your budget is bigger you could do Trick flow 235's(or any 225 or 235 head, AFR,PRC) milled to 11:1, Ported Fast 92/92, and a custom cam. Then you'll be looking at about 540rwhp.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

I've got an HKE 383 long block right now with AFR 205's on top that would be perfect. Custom HKE cam, we grind one to meet your criteria.