Will susp. work help my 60'?
08-31-2009, 01:35 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Will susp. work help my 60'? My car isnt't lowered or anything like that.
I am running nitto dr's on stock rims and have an average 60' of 1.89.
Are there any suspension mod's that might help me get out of the hole better?
There isn't any wheel-hop, but the rear does squat when launching.
Lot of people say get wider tires, but I know there are some that are cutting 1.7's 60' times with the same tire/ wheel setup that I have.
Any help?
I am running nitto dr's on stock rims and have an average 60' of 1.89.
Are there any suspension mod's that might help me get out of the hole better?
There isn't any wheel-hop, but the rear does squat when launching.
Lot of people say get wider tires, but I know there are some that are cutting 1.7's 60' times with the same tire/ wheel setup that I have.
Any help?
09-01-2009, 08:05 AM
#3
Hello
What I would suggest for you is to looking into a better way to help transfer weight such as a front coil over set up in the front with a 300lb front spring but if it is a full race car go with a 275lb. And then I would also go with a adjustable rear shock as well to help carry the weight and not allow it to unload to fast. Once you get the suspension dialed in it will work great! And to help keep the power planted I would look into a set of lower control arm relocation brackets. They allow you to adjust the lower control arm more parallel with the surface. Therefore eliminating any wheel hop issues and increase you traction performance. And while you are at it look into a set of new lower rear control arms and get rid of a factory stamped pieces that flex and the bushings are possibly shot. And also a set of SFC's to help keep the dimples off of the rear quarters and allow weight to transfer. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...rc31nh71dons20
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
What I would suggest for you is to looking into a better way to help transfer weight such as a front coil over set up in the front with a 300lb front spring but if it is a full race car go with a 275lb. And then I would also go with a adjustable rear shock as well to help carry the weight and not allow it to unload to fast. Once you get the suspension dialed in it will work great! And to help keep the power planted I would look into a set of lower control arm relocation brackets. They allow you to adjust the lower control arm more parallel with the surface. Therefore eliminating any wheel hop issues and increase you traction performance. And while you are at it look into a set of new lower rear control arms and get rid of a factory stamped pieces that flex and the bushings are possibly shot. And also a set of SFC's to help keep the dimples off of the rear quarters and allow weight to transfer. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...rc31nh71dons20
If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help!
Thanks
Brad
09-01-2009, 12:14 PM
#4
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Brad has alot of good stuff. Just depending on how much you have to spend, there is always room for improvement with suspension. I would do shocks. My stiff(50/50) drag shocks in the rear were fine for daily driving.
09-01-2009, 05:57 PM
#6
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Hold up on the shocks and subframe connectors. That is not the best place to spend your money.
Here's some drag racing science:
The rear suspension squat is caused by weight transfer from front to rear under hard acceleration. The cool thing about the suspension is that you can use the driving force of the rear axle to counteract the suspension squat. This is what people mean when they talk about "anti-squat". If your suspension is set-up properly, you can use anti-squat to raise the back end of the vehicle during launch. Thanks to Newton's Third Law of Motion, that same force that raises the back end during launch also pushes the tires into the ground. This is what helps improve your launch and your 60 foot times!!
So the question is:
How do you adjust your rear suspension to create anti-squat and improve traction?
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodySuspension.htm
BMR just lowered our prices on most F-Body products, so most BMR suspension products are now priced the same or lower than other LS1Tech suspension companies.
Another problem that you have is that Nitto drag radials do not hook-up that well. Most top drag radial racers use Mickey Thompson drag radials.
Keep in mind that BMR has over a dozen customers running in the 7s on drag radials and we have more than 100 F-Body customers running in the 8s and 9s. No other F-Body stock-type suspension company even comes close to BMR on the drag strip.
Give Lee, Dennis, or Kyle a call and we will help you pick out the best parts for your budget and your goals.
Here's some drag racing science:
The rear suspension squat is caused by weight transfer from front to rear under hard acceleration. The cool thing about the suspension is that you can use the driving force of the rear axle to counteract the suspension squat. This is what people mean when they talk about "anti-squat". If your suspension is set-up properly, you can use anti-squat to raise the back end of the vehicle during launch. Thanks to Newton's Third Law of Motion, that same force that raises the back end during launch also pushes the tires into the ground. This is what helps improve your launch and your 60 foot times!!
So the question is:
How do you adjust your rear suspension to create anti-squat and improve traction?
- First Step : Install Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets. This will allow you to adjust the rear mounting point of the lower control arms. Also, you should probably install some tubular Lower Control Arms to eliminate flex in the arms and flex in the bushings.
- Second Step : Install a Torque Arm Relocation Bracket. This will allow you to adjust the front mounting point of the torque arm. This would be a good time to install an Adjustable Torque Arm to replace the stock stamped steel piece.
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodySuspension.htm
BMR just lowered our prices on most F-Body products, so most BMR suspension products are now priced the same or lower than other LS1Tech suspension companies.
Another problem that you have is that Nitto drag radials do not hook-up that well. Most top drag radial racers use Mickey Thompson drag radials.
Keep in mind that BMR has over a dozen customers running in the 7s on drag radials and we have more than 100 F-Body customers running in the 8s and 9s. No other F-Body stock-type suspension company even comes close to BMR on the drag strip.
Give Lee, Dennis, or Kyle a call and we will help you pick out the best parts for your budget and your goals.
