C5natie

iTrader: (1)

In the middle of building, or rebuilding my LS6 motor. I'll talk to the machinist for all full specs and measurements tomorrow. Aiming for 12.1-3:1 compression ratio. The motor will see mostly street but is being built for future high revving trips to the road course with great mid range power coming out of the corner and more top end then you'll see in the straight. Should be fun. Here's how its coming along so far, tell me what you think:

Fast 90mm & LS2 TB both ported
Bosch 40lb fuel injectors
TFS 215cc heads milled to 60cc
Cometics 0.040 mls head gasket
Patriot Extreme Valve Springs, shimmed
Comp Cams custom grind 236/243 112lsa +4 degrees advanced
597/610 lift @ 0.50 (around there, waiting on cam and specs card)
JE forged domed pistons, 6+/-cc's (waiting on all measurements)
JE forged lightweight I beam connecting rod
stock micro polished crank
cleaned and bored LS6 block, still 346ci

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

Wow, this is LS1Tech with no tech.

Ryne @ CMS

iTrader: (10)

i think your on the right track.... i even like the cam with that advance it will have nice midrange with decent topend charge. your compression roughly should be 12.6:1 or so

lazylongboarder

iTrader: (2)

Great setup. Where're you planning on shifting? E85?
Good luck with road race answers on here. I go from the road race forums to Gen 3 internal with the same Q's. Not many people on here interested in the bends it seems like. You'll get lots of views and few answers. Drag is HUGELY more popular. Maybe cause you see over 280* oil temps with out a cooler RR'ing and the motor starves for oil in a long bend if you don't prep for it.
Your trick flows will make you happy i'm sure.

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

Thnx. We're aiming for 12.1 to 12.3:1 compression so I guess the dome might be a little smaller than what I posted. As for the cam, youre right. I went with 4 degrees advanced to bring that midrange down. Hopping it"ll come out of corners hauling *** right in its power band.

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

Thnx, I'll be running a race fuel mix. We'll see what the car likes when we tune it but Im thinking anywhere form 93-95oct. Car should shift around 6850-6900. Not sure though, gotta talk with my tuner. Valve springs should be okay but I might take it easy on them till I get some wider and bigger ones with more pressure. It"ll make peak power just north of 6400rpm. Ive had the Trick Flows over a year and yeah I think theyre the best heads you can get for an LS1/6.

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

I would consider a 3-quart Accusump for this application to ensure engine oil 100% of the time in the twistees.

Dan_the_C5_Man

Not be come off sounding like an ***, but the first "mod" for this type of activity is a 6 speed!

lazylongboarder

iTrader: (2)

It's sequentialI hope

You'll hate mid corner shifts upsetting the F/R balance. Unintentional understeer/oversteer will kill the road racing experience (not to mention lap times and safety). Get a M6 FO SHO

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

It is only about $800-900 for an LS3 block which gives you another 30ci approximately. I would do that as well. Just pull out your complete engine and sell it as is to recoup some costs.

If you plan to road race dump that automatic 100% or there is no need to go as big. If you only want to AutoX then it should be fine ..... but AutoX is about 1 minute long and road racing is generally 20 minute sessions.....

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

Well I just looked in my bakyard and couldnt find a money tree growing. M6 and LS3's sound great but I might have to wait. Working on a budget right now which is why Im using many of my existing parts. Just working with what I got. Got a good deal on the cam and rotating assembly or else I was looking at a simple stock rebuild. First things first but thnx for the advice guys.

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

Ive been looking at some but gotta save up for it. Where can I find the 3qt system? The car will be on street duty mostly for a while so it should be alright... i hope.

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

I got mine from Summit Racing which is 20% cheaper than buying direct from the manufacturer Canton Racing. They (Summit and Canton) carry all the associated hardware to tie into your oil filter (sandwich adaptor) or oil cooler line as well as hose fittings, etc. On the hose ends and hoses Summit also has non-Canton brands which can be less expensive. I got the electric valve control that ties into iginition. When you turn on the ignition before starting the car it pre-oils the motor. The Cantion racing website has all the info, including installation instructions you can download.

lazylongboarder

iTrader: (2)

Great advice. If it's mainly a street car you won't need it. Many times in RRing track events (20 min weekend runs) you might not even draw ANY oil from the accusump. At the bare minimum, baffles are a good idea since you've got the pan off for the rebuild.

Spend $150 on a used oil cooler or a little more for new and it will help you big time on the street. Street cars can typically see 260*+ oil temps=lower oil pressure. Get the biggest cooler you can fit and you'll see better oil pressure. Sometimes 10+ psi in the entire rev range. Great insurance. Especially if you're on a budget...

C5natie

iTrader: (1)

Thnx for the advice guys. I save the Accusump systems arent that expensive. Even if I dont use it its cheap insurance to have.

Thnx Darkman, I'll look up Canton, sounds good.

racecar

My first LS6 motor was a similar setup with 12:1 compression. I had to run 50% 100 octane race fuel with 50% 92 pump gas and only 25 degrees of timing to keep it from knocking. That is way too much compression for a street motor. For the track ,if you don't mind paying $9.50 a gal for race fuel, it will make some power. I have seen people try to make an automatic trans work in a road race car, rarely sucessful.
You will need a trans cooler as big as the engine radiator to keep the trans from burning up. They just won't take the heat. Good luck, you are going to fight a long tough battle on that one. It would be waaaaaay easier to get a 6 sp.