ls1 block ls6 heads but what cam??
09-10-2009, 12:43 AM
#1
ls1 block ls6 heads but what cam?? i have a new ls1 motor with new ls6 heads running through a a3(th350)i like the big cams g5x4 trex etc etc but i want to spray now ! i have a 100 shot dry and looking for the best cam to run na but yet run good when i decided i need the bottle i have pacesetter longtubes duals and a ls6 intake.... im willing to mill heads but also need help with pushrod length and the ptv will flycut stock pistons aswell thanks for ur help......
Last edited by txh0tb0i972; 09-10-2009 at 01:05 AM.
09-10-2009, 11:02 AM
#5
you can keep a cam like that and spray it. as long as you stay below 150 and 175 maybe i dont see it affecting the cam... and for dry or wet read the sticky in the nitrous section. has all pros and cons to both
09-10-2009, 11:09 AM
#6
Wet vs. Dry
These questions will come up alot, so I'll try to address them now. The main difference between the 2 is the Wet kit injects fuel AND nitrous into the intake tract, whereas the Dry kit will only inject nitrous. They both have their advantages and drawbacks. If you're new to nitrous, Dry is probably for you. Its very simple to install, mostly plug and play and gives the most hit. Wet kits are generally a smoother hit comparatively and require more installation. Dry kits do not inject more fuel into the intake directly, but if nothing else was done, your engine would lean WAY out, and thats never good. What the dry kit does is fool the fuel pressure regulator into thinking its not adding enough fuel. It opens it up (or closes it, however the LS1 works)[LSx platform uses the MAF to tell pcm to add fuel thru injectors, and LTx uses reg to spike fuel pressure with aux fuel pump. Robert56] and adds more fuel that way. The problem with this is its very easy to lean out. If the vaccuum line pops off or something goes wrong with the FPR, you can lose fuel and this can damage your engine in no time if the nitrous isnt turned off. Also, you'll probably get people telling you that you cant run big shots on dry. This is not true. USA Motorsports used to competitively race using a 2 stage dry kit 175-300.
Wet on the other hand is the most tuneable of the 2 (not including foggers or direct port, I'll go over that later). It adds additional fuel through a seperate solenoid and atomizes it with the nitrous in the intake tract. This is safer in the sense that you dont rely on the FPR to add more fuel, but the downside is if you shut down too early and do not stop spraying early enough, the fuel/nitrous mixture can puddle up inside the intake and cause a nitrous backfire. If you have never seen one, I hope you never do. They are not pretty. I had one in my old racecar. It was a 250 shot and it blew halfway down the track. The hood was toast, the intake was split in 3 pieces, TB cracked in half and the MAF was blown away somewhere and couldnt be found. Not fun. While this isnt a common occurance, it IS possable.
These questions will come up alot, so I'll try to address them now. The main difference between the 2 is the Wet kit injects fuel AND nitrous into the intake tract, whereas the Dry kit will only inject nitrous. They both have their advantages and drawbacks. If you're new to nitrous, Dry is probably for you. Its very simple to install, mostly plug and play and gives the most hit. Wet kits are generally a smoother hit comparatively and require more installation. Dry kits do not inject more fuel into the intake directly, but if nothing else was done, your engine would lean WAY out, and thats never good. What the dry kit does is fool the fuel pressure regulator into thinking its not adding enough fuel. It opens it up (or closes it, however the LS1 works)[LSx platform uses the MAF to tell pcm to add fuel thru injectors, and LTx uses reg to spike fuel pressure with aux fuel pump. Robert56] and adds more fuel that way. The problem with this is its very easy to lean out. If the vaccuum line pops off or something goes wrong with the FPR, you can lose fuel and this can damage your engine in no time if the nitrous isnt turned off. Also, you'll probably get people telling you that you cant run big shots on dry. This is not true. USA Motorsports used to competitively race using a 2 stage dry kit 175-300.
Wet on the other hand is the most tuneable of the 2 (not including foggers or direct port, I'll go over that later). It adds additional fuel through a seperate solenoid and atomizes it with the nitrous in the intake tract. This is safer in the sense that you dont rely on the FPR to add more fuel, but the downside is if you shut down too early and do not stop spraying early enough, the fuel/nitrous mixture can puddle up inside the intake and cause a nitrous backfire. If you have never seen one, I hope you never do. They are not pretty. I had one in my old racecar. It was a 250 shot and it blew halfway down the track. The hood was toast, the intake was split in 3 pieces, TB cracked in half and the MAF was blown away somewhere and couldnt be found. Not fun. While this isnt a common occurance, it IS possable.
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10-31-2009, 08:19 AM
#15
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If you go with the dry kit your injectors better be up to the task. I personally like the wet kit better, but in is a more expensive and a harder install. Fuel pump HAS to be able to handle either kit, or it will go BOOM. Dean.
10-31-2009, 08:40 AM
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As for checking pushrod length, get one of the adjustable pushrods thats in the range you need, comp, trickflow,and there are others that make them. Set the proper length to achieve correct preload, tighten the locknut on the pushrod then measure, or send the pushrod to your pushrod company of choice. I recommend sending the pushrod, because they are very difficult to measure correctly. I know this makes for a lot of downtime, but it is the correct method, if you don't have the proper tools to correctly measure. Hope this helps, Dean.
